Clear bra
Front of car, up the hood and fenders about 20-inches (works for me--no pits above that line). Backs of Mirrors, and rear of door edges. Use Heavier 3-M material on Headlights for extra protection.
I would look into Protective Film Solutions, they look like they do a pretty good job.
Minimum do whole hood, and front fenders, and mirrors, would do rocker panels as well and front of rear fenders.
When I had my Nurburgring V8V, the previous owner had done everything - including doors, door handles, rear fenders - it was fully protected and looked great on the Lightning Silver color - couldn't see it.
Minimum do whole hood, and front fenders, and mirrors, would do rocker panels as well and front of rear fenders.
When I had my Nurburgring V8V, the previous owner had done everything - including doors, door handles, rear fenders - it was fully protected and looked great on the Lightning Silver color - couldn't see it.
I did the front bumper & valance, entire hood and front fenders, mirrors, rockers, and headlights. My big thing is that I didn't want the edges to be noticeable. Most people never notice that it's there.
I had similar protection on my Lightning Silver, but only covered the lower portion of the bonnet, in addition my headlights, and inner door sill to protect against scratching while getting in and old.
Would recommend you go higher on the rear panel (as pictured)
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It's only needed to cover areas what are most likely to get rock chips, only lower half the hood is really needed the upper half is not, fenders, upto the break points, full bumper cover, mirror faces, trailing edges of wheel wells, rockers are a good touch as well as perhaps leading edge front of rear wheel arches. Any more then that is overkill and not needed, you want to have as much paint open so you can care for that surface properly over the years, and clear bra only the areas that are suseptable to rock chipping.
It's only needed to cover areas what are most likely to get rock chips, only lower half the hood is really needed the upper half is not, fenders, upto the break points, full bumper cover, mirror faces, trailing edges of wheel wells, rockers are a good touch as well as perhaps leading edge front of rear wheel arches. Any more then that is overkill and not needed, you want to have as much paint open so you can care for that surface properly over the years, and clear bra only the areas that are suseptable to rock chipping.
I would never do it as it compromises the appearance of the paint too much IMO. I'd rather have the chipped parts of the car professionally touched-up or blown in every year if necessary.
FF
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It is very common today to have the entire hood covered. Until the last 4 years almost all of my cars were black, and I only had part of the hood covered. If you got within 5 feet of the car you could see where the clear bra ended on the hood. The line was especially noticeable on a black car when it trapped dust or pollen at the break point. Breezman, this will be an issue for you because you are parking your car outdoors most of the time. After my first experience of having the entire hood covered, I was amazed at the difference. Even after I tell people that the car has a clear bra, people still don't believe it until I lift the hood and have them feel where the clear bra is wrapped around the edges. My last 4 cars have had their hoods entirely covered. It just looks tons better, and I have had no issues with the paint. When I traded in my previous Aston I got additional money for having the hood completely covered. I agree with the previous posts about other areas to cover. I mentioned before to also have the grille slats wrapped. The dealership said I was the first one to ask for that to be done, but after seeing the chips on my old car's grille, said it made sense to try. The installer did it without any additional charge.
Last edited by wem; Jan 8, 2013 at 06:25 PM.
Grille slats on an Aston getting wrapped is interesting,on one hand it's time consuming and the slates are parallel to the plane of the ground so it's not statistically or mathematically a high risk area as perpendicular planes to the cars leading edge are... But on the other hand I see bugs and watermarks after the rain as an issue that can be aided by clear filming the grille. But then again you wouldn't have the satisfaction of cleaning and polishing the brightwork on your own. It's a toss up. One thing my DB has had clear film put on which I think is helpful is interior metal bits which are prone to scratch or high use such as for example door pulls since they are high chip areas die to pulling off the seat belts.
I'm on my second Vantage with3M Ventureshield on both
I've done over 23k miles in the pair in the last couple of years on a lot of back roads round Europe
My experience with "gravel rash" from those trips tipped me to the full V12 kit and full bonnet with the S.
I still managed to get one chip on top of a wing and one on the drivers door (where there is no film)
I also have stone chips on the grill (not bright finish) but I will just re coat that at some point
The full kit is;
front splitter, front bumper, headlights, washers, wings to just behind lights, back of mirrors, full sill, door handles, front of rear arch to swage line
rear bumper below boot close, bottom of rear splitter (and full bonnet as extra)
Make sure you treat any chips, paint correct and polish the car before applying it or you will seal in the crap. Seal it afterwards.
I've done over 23k miles in the pair in the last couple of years on a lot of back roads round Europe
My experience with "gravel rash" from those trips tipped me to the full V12 kit and full bonnet with the S.
I still managed to get one chip on top of a wing and one on the drivers door (where there is no film)

I also have stone chips on the grill (not bright finish) but I will just re coat that at some point
The full kit is;
front splitter, front bumper, headlights, washers, wings to just behind lights, back of mirrors, full sill, door handles, front of rear arch to swage line
rear bumper below boot close, bottom of rear splitter (and full bonnet as extra)
Make sure you treat any chips, paint correct and polish the car before applying it or you will seal in the crap. Seal it afterwards.
Last edited by mikey k; Jan 9, 2013 at 02:27 AM.
It is very common today to have the entire hood covered. Until the last 4 years almost all of my cars were black, and I only had part of the hood covered. If you got within 5 feet of the car you could see where the clear bra ended on the hood. The line was especially noticeable on a black car when it trapped dust or pollen at the break point. Breezman, this will be an issue for you because you are parking your car outdoors most of the time. After my first experience of having the entire hood covered, I was amazed at the difference. Even after I tell people that the car has a clear bra, people still don't believe it until I lift the hood and have them feel where the clear bra is wrapped around the edges. My last 4 cars have had their hoods entirely covered. It just looks tons better, and I have had no issues with the paint. When I traded in my previous Aston I got additional money for having the hood completely covered. I agree with the previous posts about other areas to cover. I mentioned before to also have the grille slats wrapped. The dealership said I was the first one to ask for that to be done, but after seeing the chips on my old car's grille, said it made sense to try. The installer did it without any additional charge.
Full front\rear bumper
full hood
full front fenders
rock guards
back of mirrors.
Headlights
I said specifically- NO line under ant circumstances and the installer said agreed!!!
Btw- thinking about Cilajet. do you use a sealant and wax on top of the bra too?




