Installation & labor on stock crank pulley?
#1
Installation & labor on stock crank pulley?
Hey guys,
Does anyone have the official aston installation instructions on the stock OEM crank pulley, along with the official quote for number hours of labor for the installation?
Just trying to gauge how intensive of an installation it is before I undertake it.
Thanks,
007
Does anyone have the official aston installation instructions on the stock OEM crank pulley, along with the official quote for number hours of labor for the installation?
Just trying to gauge how intensive of an installation it is before I undertake it.
Thanks,
007
#2
130 lb/ft
I do not have the official instructions, but have been warned by the mechanic...the torque requirement is 130 lb/ft.
I will have him do it when our driving season ends, tying it into something else like the 2 shouldered idler pulley install and serpentine belt replacement.
I will have him do it when our driving season ends, tying it into something else like the 2 shouldered idler pulley install and serpentine belt replacement.
#3
130ft lbs seems very low for such a large heavy stock crank pulley (~14 lbs). The Mercedes AMG crank pulleys are only 7lbs and they need almost 200ft lbs to keep them on otherwise they come off.
#4
Pulley torque requirement?
It is not my number, its his, and he works on Astons all day.
007, have you considered a straight substitution for a Jag pulley from the same engine family? My Ford engine developer friend said to avoid the Lincoln LS or T-Bird part, their FEAD (front end accessory drive) design is unique.
007, have you considered a straight substitution for a Jag pulley from the same engine family? My Ford engine developer friend said to avoid the Lincoln LS or T-Bird part, their FEAD (front end accessory drive) design is unique.
#5
I am going to machine the stock pulley the maximum amount possible to see just how much weight I can remove from the stock damper. Last time I was able to take out about 4.5 lbs. I think I can take out another 2 pounds hopefully bringing it down to about 7.5 lbs. at that level the performance gain should be quite healthy. I will of course do a before/after dyno to chronicle the difference. I will also get the pulley high Rpm balanced to 8000rpm to help smoothen up the revs and make sure it can handle the 7800rpm redline I will be getting on the stage 2 tune.
After that I will be doing the rear brake rotors again (9lbs each, 18 total) to get the maximum amount of the engines torque to the rear wheels as possible to help aliviate the lack of torque on the bottom end.
Should be a fun project
After that I will be doing the rear brake rotors again (9lbs each, 18 total) to get the maximum amount of the engines torque to the rear wheels as possible to help aliviate the lack of torque on the bottom end.
Should be a fun project
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