So I noticed my hood closes a little "low" so that the lines on the front of the hood don't exactly line up with the body lines on the grille (hood is a bit too low), and as mentioned in the stickied thread, the hood seals tend to pop out as a result. I tried extending the rubber bumpers but then the primary striker won't latch and I obviously don't want to force an aluminium hood closed. I'll need to adjust the striker, but before just turning screws and hoping I get lucky I'm hoping someone can confirm my suspicions with this diagram (handbook was less than helpful in the hood refresh section, just saying "adjust striker as needed").

Am I correct in assuming it's part 6 in the attached diagram that I will adjust? Or is it part 7? Which screws will I adjust? The striker would either need to be lowered or the latch would need to be raised. My estimate is it needs a tad more than 1/4" in adjustment of the hood being raised upward. Anyone know what size torx bits these are? I'm assuming it's an easy go of it, I just want to have all my ducks in a row.

Thank you

 

Remove part 6 on the hood/bonnet: Two T-30 bolts...
Adjust the two jam nuts on the threaded portion of the striker (one on each side of the mounting plate-only one is visible in the picture) to change its relative position to the latch. Reinstall. Hopefully, there is enough adjustment for your needs!

 

Also check and adjust the rubber bump-stops on the hood. They can be twisted for adjustment (look at them and you'll see what I mean).

 

He did that first (read carefully) and that's why he needs to adjust the striker...

 

My bad Trying to juggle twelve things in the office while checking in on 6speed probably is taxing my ability to absorb details lol

 

Perfect! Thank you

 

Thanks again, Don! The bolts to remove the striker were indeed T30 Torx, and for reference, the adjustment nut on the striker bar was 13mm. There actually wasn't a nut above the striker plate, so removal of the striker assembly actually isn't required to move the striker in or out. It took some fiddling to get it not too tight and not too lose with the bumpers adjusted, but the hood now lines up perfect with the front fenders. I'd say about 1.5 full turns to raise the hood 1/4". All in all, quite easy enough

 

I'm glad it was an easy fix. I'll have to take my striker off just out of curiosity to see what keeps the adjustment from changing with only the one nut...

 

I'd be interested to hear if yours has a nut on the top part or not. Now I'm confused about how it stays put without one as well ... Hopefully I'm not missing a nut

 

I took a few minutes this morning to remove the striker to take a closer look and satisfy my curiosity. It appears that the single nut is a cleverly designed metallic "stop nut" compressed or swaged into place. The threaded end of the striker is also crimped to prevent it from being "adjusted" out of the nut/assembly.

It would also appear to have a "belleville washer" in the assembly to maintain pressure so the nut doesn't move after adjustment.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
Certainly a more costly design that having two nuts...!

 

Wow, quite clever indeed!