Greetings guys,

I took my 2009 V8V into Los Gatos today to have the seat heater monitor module and harness installed. They also determined it needed a new fuel door guide installed which included qty 1 EG33-9C294-AB "Fuel filler" And qty 1 6G33-28614-AA "SE Cable FU/FILL FLP".

When I took my car in, it had the intermittent emissions error message. They read the code and recommended "replacing the DMTL Pump" and quoted $850 for parts and labor. The advisor was pretty cool and said he'd recommend I keep an eye on it in the next few months to see if the light goes away, saying that upon car start up, "It checks for (fuel?) pressure, and if it doesn't see it, it throws a code but will check every two minutes. Since your car has low miles, it's tough to say if it really is the pump. If you drive it more often, it should regain pressure and the error should go away."

So I wanted to turn to the collective here and ask for your thoughts?

Now on to another interesting development. When I picked the car up a few hours later, as soon as I sat inside, I noticed both seats were adjusted to weird positions (driver was almost all the way back, passenger seat back was almost vertical). I adjusted my seat, inserted the key fob, and saw the SRS airbag error message. I flagged a service advisor who happened to be walking by, explained what I had found, and when he learned that I adjusted both driver and passenger seats, told me "the error message will go away". I've dug around some of the other threads, and it appears that loose connections underneath the seat could trip up the SRS error. I poked around underneath both seats and wiggled the cable connections, but nothing seemed loose or partially connected.

I plugged a ELM327 wifi reader into the OBD port (port on the driver side near the center console) and got 3 codes: P0497 (Evaporative Emission system low purge flow), P2402 (evaporative emission system leak detection pump control circuit high) and P2406 (evaporative emission system leak detection pump sense circuit high). Do these codes jive with the recommendation above to replace the DMTL pump? I still need to dig around and see wtf is a DMTL pump.

I tried plugging the reader into the port on the passenger side, but it wouldn't connect with my phone and I got an OBD2 protocol error message. I'm guessing I need a better reader or a different type of reader for the body OBD. I think it's possible that while installing the seat heater fault monitor module, cable connections had to be unplugged and plugged back together, maybe causing the SRS light? I hope it goes away, but would like to turn to you guys if there's anything else I could look into.

I've added pics of the fuel filler cap open. I don't see anything different, but the fuel door does spring open a bit once I hit the fuel release button (can't remember if the fuel door sprung open like that before).

Anyways, thanks for the read and for any help in advance.

Anthony

 

Forgot to mention, had a bad encounter with one of the driveways at the dealership--ended up cracking the plastic trim lip underneath the front bumper. If anyone has leads on factory (or even aftermarket) replacement pieces, I'd appreciate it!

Anthony

 

Hi Anthony

I had the same issue with the airbag alert. I took my car to LG Luxury and was told the same thing. The alert came up again one day and once I adjusted the seat so the backing doesn't hit the side, it went away in a couple minutes.

I hope that helps
Manton

 

I, too, have had the airbag message. The passenger seat was too far back. I moved it forward a little bit and the message went away in a few minutes. The tech at my local dealer said there is a sensor in the rear of the seat that can get quirky if there's pressure applied to it via the seat being too far back against the rear paneling.

 

+1 for me on the Air bag light. I had moved my passenger seat all the way back to give a friends son a ride ( he was over 6'). And during the ride the light came on. After we got home I moved the seat forward and the ligh went out. It has not come back on.
Ron

 

SRS light will indeed come on if the passenger seat is too far back and clashing with the rear trim..this is popular on non memory seat vehicles. If the car has memory seats then clash avoidance will always prevent the seat from clashing with the rear trim.. If you have memory seats and can still clash the seat with the rear trim, then this means that seat is not calibrated and should of been relearned while in service.

Reason the SRS light comes on, their are 4 weight sensors on the passenger seat frame.. Each sensor is at each anchor bolt which at each corner of the seat frame. When the back rest clashes with the rear trim, this forces up on the rear sensors and down on the from sensors. The 4 sensors now see an indifference in weight and flag the OCS sensor as not calibrated for weight triggering the SRS light on in the dash.

The DMTL pump is behind the LHR wheel inner fender lining. Yes that code can be triggered by a faulty DMTL pump but so can a faulty vapour valve, leak in evap system, or faulty fuel cap not closed correctly. First step would be to check the freeze frame with the dealer scanner and compare with the last recorded evap test to see if the fault had been still present upon service. If last test failed them a smoke test of the evap system is required next to track a potential evap leak, if system holds pressure then a test of the vapour valve and DMTL pump would be next.. If all tests pass then a DMTL drive cycle would be completed, if drive cycle passes concern would be listed as not current at present time and I would suspect fuel cap incorrectly fitted at time if DTC (usually a trapped fuel cap cable) or faulty fuel cap entirely(usually check valve opens and stays venting).

 

Thanks guys for the input. I did adjust the passenger seat and there was no contact behind the seat to the rest of the interior. The light still remained on during the drive home. I'm curious about the seat heater campaign--does this require removal or moving the seats around to gain access underneath the seat? When I picked the car up from the dealership, the seats were out of adjustment (seats were left in weird awkward positions), and the remote wouldn't unlock the doors at first.

Thanks for the input Irish07. I did read on another thread regarding SRS light triggered by imbalanced loads detected by the seat sensors. I do have memory seats, and just now tried testing the clash avoidance. I reclined the seats slightly, then slid the seats towards the rear. The seatbacks raised slightly, but the back of the seats (map pockets) made solid contact to the rear interior/carpeted vertical wall. I could not slip my hand through behind the back of the seats. I moved the seats forward to regain clearance. At this point, can I reset and calibrate the seats myself and the light will go away? Or do I need to visit the dealer?

As for the DMTL pump, is there anything I can monitor or check for myself without paying a visit to the dealer?

Thanks very much again Irish and everyone.

Anthony

 

Seat reset sequence is described in post #2 by Irish07 in the following thread:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...d-working.html

Sorry, I can't help you with the DMTL issue...good luck!

 

Thanks for the link. I'm actually trying the reset now and just found out the passenger seat doesn't have height adjustment. I can recline the seat back and slide the seat forward and backwards. Will try again and then take out for a drive and see if the light goes away.

 

All North American Aston models don't have passenger height adjust..

With memory seats, I usually have to clear the SRS fault code for the light to go out..with non-memory I just have to move the seat forward. With memory it might clear on it's own but when you have a AMDS at will and time is money, I just never bothered to wait and find out..

 

Thanks Irish07 and Don for the input. I recalibrated the seats and was able to verify that the seats would recline forwards as I slid the seats towards the rear. However, eventually I was able to get the back of the seat (map pocket area) to touch the rear shelf in the car. After resetting the windows, I went for a 25 mile drive but the SRS and emission codes remain.

Thanks so far for the help everyone. I'm definitely open to any other ideas!

Anthony

 

The emissions light(MIL) will not go off untill 3 passed drive cycles are completed for the DMTL to self delete the code and turn off the MIL. You can self start the drive cycle but will take a repeat of 3 times..or just goto a local auto shop and have them clear the code for you to at least turn off the MIL light for now, yet it might return...if you have a code snanner or a android with an ELM327 even better.

EVAP Drive cycle: Drive for 1 mile on a coast. Park card and let it soak for 24hrs, start engine and let idle for 20 minutes, switch off and let soak for 30 minutes, start engine and let idle for 10 seconds then drive away above 20 mph 2 times...done correctly you've just completed 1 EVAP drive cycle to test the DMTL.

You would have to complete this test 3 times...sometimes after 1 drive cycle results are good enough to turn off the MIL but the DTC will still be stored. If you do the drive cycle a few times and MIL stays on..odds are the concern is always present and needs to be diagnosed.

If I was in your shoes..I'd get that DTC cleared and do a drive cycle on my own..would save hours of diag...

 

SRS light clears(uually not with memory seats) with igntion cycles not mileage....Needs 3 igntion cycles showing 3 back to back passed tests of the OCS sensor in the seats.

Turn key on and start engine, wait 30 seconds..power down, ..repeat. My the 3rd time, light should be off, otherwise OCS sensor will need to be recalibrated to clear light

 

I have found that, if you supply power to the ignition circuit whilst the steering wheel airbag is unplugged, no amount of ignition cycles will clear the SRS light. You need to use a scan tool to clear it. With the seat weight sensors, the error usually clears immediately when you move the seat forward without having to cycle the ignition.

 

Thanks very much Irish07 for the additional advice. I will clear the DTC and attempt a drive cycle. When you say drive 1 mile coasting, you mean not under heavy throttle? Just maintenance throttle to maintain speed? And the last part about "drive away above 20mph two times", this means accelerate to at least 20mph, then slow down, and accelerate again to at least 20mph and that will conclude one cycle of the EVAP drive cycle?

For the OCS sensor recalibration, is this the same as resetting the seats as outlined in the above link? Or is this something that can only be done at the dealer?

Thanks again everyone.

Anthony