Hi all,

I'm installing a front-mounted camera on the grill of my DBS. Everything's wired up and working, but I'm pulling my hair out trying to route the wire from the cabin through to the engine bay.

I've tried two different rubber grommets (one on driver's side, one on passenger's). I've managed to poke a hanger wire through, but I can't seem to find where the hanger emerges in the engine bay.

If someone has routed wire like this, I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions.

Thanks.

 

Did you look into the engine bay from underneath? You might be able to see it from that viewpoint.

 

Thanks, telum01. Are you suggesting I jack up or lift the car?

I tried crouching down and taking a peek, but between the car's low clearance, the arch liner, and the underbody shield panel, there isn't much visibility into the engine bay?

 

Yeah, jack the car up and get underneath to look up into the engine bay. There's a surprising amount of space in our engine bays, but some things are completely blocked from view. Changing your vantage point might give you an easy view of it.

Another thing... The wiring loom might go into the fender area before it goes into the engine bay. Take a look at where the loom is in the engine bay and trace it back. It might go through the fender before getting to the cabin.

 

Thanks, I'll give it shot.

This will be my first time jacking up the car, and I know the site has whole threads dedicated to this subject, so at the risk of opening up a can of worms... would you (personally) use a jack stand for this?

I know these cars have very few obvious spots to place a jack stand, so I'm considering picking up a set of JackPoint stands to make the question moot.

 

Definitely use jack stands. Safety first, always! You should be fine, just use the recommended jacking points - nothing too special about the process aside from knowing where to put things.

 

If you have never used jack stands before make sure you chock the rear tires if you are only lifting the front. I also like to keep the jack on a lift point as well. I have spent many hours underneath cars, but have never gotten 100% comfortable with jack stands. Probably just a phobia though.

 

Keep in mind, once you get it in the air, in order to gain access to the engine compartment you need to remove the complete under tray. This is not a difficult job but is a little tricky when working on your back with Jack stands. Is it possible for you to gain access to a drive on (4 post) lift? That would really make this a piece of cake for you. I have a lift and have removed this piece and I agree that doing so will make this project you're working on much easier. Because of the tricky jack points, it's not easy to get the car from the floor jack and on to Jack stands. I think some drive on ramps would be a better alternative considering you don't need to remove the wheels. Good luck. I took some photos of the underside of my DB9 with the belly pan removed. PM me if you would like to get an idea of what you'll be looking at when you get to that point, I'd be happy to send them to you.

 

Yikes, I think I did open a can of worms. Thanks for all the great information and tips, guys. I have to admit, though, the prospect of jacking/lifting the car and removing the underbody tray seems a bit intimidating - especially when all I want to do is route a couple lousy wires.

Let me ask, if I'm able to get the car raised on four jack stands (again, the JackPoint jackstands seem ideally suited for this, since they use the car's existing points for the stands and make the jack-to-jackstand switch easy), is the underbody panel easily removed and maneuvered while lying on my back?

I'd likely be doing this solo, and the last thing I'd want is to for someone to discover me under my car pancaked by the panel.

 

Looks like this...
One big, floppy piece of plastic

 

Thanks, looks like little wooden blocks are being used as adapters...

Is that what most people use? (I know Stuart makes some custom pads.)

How do regular, unmodified hockey pucks work as adapters?

 

Since you only want to "route a couple of lousy wires" have you considered removing a front wheel and the inner fender liner, then looking for a place to route your wires to the firewall.
It might be an easier/safer task...if it doesn't work out, then go to plan B.

 

Too wide, so potential to exert pressure too far inboard. If you cut them in half first, then place the straight part against the body sill cutout, that would be far better. The blocks above are 1-1/2" wide, you can go to 2" max.

 

Got your Pm.. I'll shoot you some pictures tomorrow. Someone had mentioned just removing a front inner fender liner and I think that would be WAY easier for you and really accomplish the same thing. I've pulled mine out several times and it's really straight forward. Furthermore, I think that you could probably get by just loosening it up to gain a little bit of access to run the wire. The problem with jacking up these cars is that you really have to put the Jack stand in the exact spot you have the Jack in to raise the car.. Obviously that becomes a problem.

 

Thank you everyone for the great tips and suggestions. Just waiting for my jackstands to come in. I'll post an update when everything's done.

Just wanted to double-check so I don't make any bonehead mistakes: these are the jacking points, yeah?