That's very interesting, and all true stuff. I have driven some vintage race cars with very low displacement engines and light flywheel/clutches and they are very easy to stall.

The same ought to be true here but the interesting thing here is that everyone says the opposite - that it engagement is easier to modulate, and smoother.

Possibly because the pedal pressure becomes lighter, maybe that and a combination of the material and actuating mechanism, but all together it actually is reported as being easier to drive. Go figure!

 

Awesome, can't wait!

This is one thing I was particularly interested in, and if it makes it easier to drive that'll be a great benefit. The other thing I'd like to hear about is how quickly revs drop off-throttle compared to the original setup. The way I'm building my car is to make it more of a sports car and less GT, but not feel like a race car that isn't easy to drive on the street. If the rev drop isn't to abrupt, this would be perfect for the direction I'm going with my car

 

Hello all,

I did this full install in my garage about three months ago. I have a MaxJax 2 post lift with a couple of extenders so I can sit on a creeper stool under the car easily. I've also got a well stocked tool chest from my motorcycle wrenching days. And the factory service manual is a critical piece to have.

I found the work to install these components to be quite straightforward. It took me two full days and I had my auto-repair proficient son help one of the days on the tear-down. I did the full reinstall by myself with the help of a proper transmission jack and a tall jackstand for the trans and torque tube steps. The trans jack was very helpful getting the boat anchor factory muffler out, too.

I meant to take lots of video of the process but kept forgetting to fire up the camera. We should all be very grateful to the guys like RedPants who spend time producing quality videos!

I didn't use any particular tools to install and align the twin plate clutch. I had a Toyota clutch alignment tool that happened to fit just right and I just tightened the smallish looking allen head screws very methodically in a criss-cross pattern. Then loosened them up about half-way and tightened them again.

The hardest part of the whole process was getting the old headers off and the new ones on. What made it work for me was a very extensive assortment of wobble-tip socket extensions, universal extensions and a couple of crow-foot socket wrenches (two different brands so they had slightly different engagement angles.)

I had to loosen the front cross-member bolts and lift the engine about an inch to get the right side header in/out.

I was able to get the OEM headers off pretty easily - it just took a lot of patience and being very deliberate about not putting torque on fasteners until the tool combination was aligned. Stripping one of those exhaust manifold fasteners would truly be a nightmare to fix.

I was really impressed with how clean everything was as it came off. Once loosened, most of the fasteners would un-thread with just finger pressure.

What I did on this job: new twin-plate clutch and all related pieces, new shifter cables, full exhaust system upgrade and the matching ECU tune from VAP.

The results of all this work have been really fun! The clutch pedal is much lighter and the engine spins up a lot quicker. It pulls like crazy from 4K up to the new red-line of 7400 but it still has great low rpm power for around town driveability. The exhaust note is much more like a 'super-car' and at full throttle high rpm it is a genuine race car. For me (a 56 year old conservative guy) that has been the only item I don't like and I put the stock cats back on. VAP headers - stock cats - VAP touring muffler is a perfect combination for me.

So .. I'm very happy with the VelocityAP parts and looking forward to my next 100,000 miles! I want Stewart to get a turbo/super charger kit ready next!

 

I did my clutch myself. I see the argument for the compression tool. I did not have one.
So I used 2 sets of bolts. I installed the clutch and pulled it down with one set. I ten removed the "old" bolts one by one in random order replacing with "non streched" bolts.
So far it has worked for me. I used 8.8 grade bolts. Seems to be fine so far.

 

Just got my car back from having VAP clutch installed.. all I can say is WOW what a difference. thanks Stuart for your contribution to keeping us owners enjoying our cars.

All the praises and comments by the owners that have had this upgrade is dead on, i'm really enjoying driving my car more. My first initial drive after the clutch was replace I stalled twice because the clutch was so much lighter compare to stock (my oem weighted in at 38.8lbs).

Anyone thinking about this upgrade you will not be disappointed. Yes its costly but once you start driving you'll smile a little more.

Happy driving...

 

Where can we get the factory service manual.

 

Which vehicle do you need the manual for? There are a couple floating around for Vantage, and DB9.
Matt

 

2009 vantage asm thanks for the info Matt

 

I concur 100%. I also have the Velocity ECU, Quicksilver 200 cell cats, RSC air filters,and RSC Rear muffler. The clutch has completely transformed the car. All of Stuart's comments are bang on. Best upgrade by a long shot

 

plan on attacking the clutch during winter. however i have a 4 post lift. do you have to remove the rear wheels to disconnect the half shaft or can the wheels stay on the lift to remove the half shaft.

also i noticed the twin clutches have a spacer that the single one doesnt use?

 

Hallo Jay
A 4post lift will work. You do not need to remove the rear wheels. However the left front wheel has to be removed as you need to remove the wheel liner to get to the bolts on the outlet manifold. I suppose you can get to from underneath it is just easier from the side.
Are you talking about the spacer behind the slave cylinder? The single clutch do have one.
It is the thickness that differ. Regards

 

 

Did you email us as well? I think we recommended Pfaff Tuning.