It's just a suitable plug to seal the EGR off. I have a bunch on the shelf, we can include free of charge with an ECU Tune.

I would not install it without an ECU Tune or you will 100% get a check engine light for EGR failure.

 

I'm ordering this from Stuart... as soon as my PayPal stops being dumb.

Short story short I got a tune from another tuner because a local shop was going to do a custom tune off of that. I never got around to the custom tune, but the base tune was supposed to get rid of CELs from my high-flow cats. Well, it doesn't.

So Stuart's stepping in to fix the CELs with the VAP tune. While at it, I asked him to send me the stuff for the EGR delete and tweak the tune to accommodate it

 

Just tuning out the code is not enough, you have to also tune the engine/PCM. Car still thinks it is getting the exhaust gas and tunes the engine accordingly.

This is not the same egr that was in the 70's - early 2000's, the air/fuel mapping takes into account the air from the egr, Chevy tuned the egr out of the Vette and Camaro PCM mappings.

Just saying, it is more complicated than just tuning out the code, your car might run richer or could run leaner.

 

Fortunately we are on top of it

 

Stuart, was not directing my comments at you, but glad you go this covered.

 

Why delete the EGR ?
More power ?
More torque ?
Less consumption ?

 

No worries, wasn't upset

 

EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) pumps exhaust back into the intake.
The good thing is that it lowers emissions and reduces peak temperatures inside the engine's cylinders.
The bad thing is that the recirculated exhaust reduces the amount of oxygen available for combustion, reducing power. The 'dirty air' from the EGR can also make it harder to get a clean burn, which might increase the amount of particulates from the combustion cycle.


In other words: Removing the EGR gives the engine cleaner air to burn.

 

Maybe a little more power, main reason is to get cleaner air in chamber during combustion and keeping the intake cleaner.

Removing the EGR raises the head and engine temps, higher level of pollutants and can actually hurt performance, see my post above. To me there is more issues with removing it, than keeping it.

 

To Stick it to the Man.

If you think about what the EGR is doing - it is recirculating hot, exhaust gases, spent fuel, Hyrdocarbons, Nitrogen Oxides into the intake. If you can remove that crap & run more fresh air and fresh fuel...

 

LMAO

 

I try to understand the details about the EGR.
Does someone know when the EGR actually operates, is it only during idle, low power cruising or all the time?
And what is the aproximate rate of recirculated mass%?

Thomas

 

EGR operates under load only, never at idle or cruise. Vehicle is tuned for EGR operation and efficiency of recycling. They are not as bad as they are made out to be. Typically only 5-10% of recirculating exhaust gas goes thru the cycle. Unless you're tuning it out and have dyno time with mods, your looking at more harm than performance in a stock configuration.

 

Thanks for the response - but that is actually worse than I thought.
EGR under load means you reduce the filling (the recirculated exhaust gas contains no Oxygene, thus lowers the amount of possible fuel to inject).
Also you increase the intake temperature, which again reduces the filling and requires ignition retardation. All of this reduces power.

That is clear, at least the fueling map needs to be tuned. otherwise you would run too lean when you replace recirculated exhaust gas with fresh air.

 

Here is the base EGR table in a US '07 AMV8. Gives %cylinder mass from exhaust based on RPM and driver TQ request. There are table mods for variable cam, coolant temp, intake temp, outside temp, startup delay etc. The PCM has a flow model based on the Differential Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) sensor so it can accurately control % combusted via Electronic Vacuum Regulator (EVR) which controls the vacuum driven EGR valve