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Spacers on 2010 Sport Pack car

  #16  
Old 05-16-2016, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by embdenb View Post
One other thing to consider when installing hub centric adapters (spacers)
You are changing the camber of the front and rear suspension. Aston Martins have very little camber adjustment margins on the rear wheels.
IMHO, anything more than 20mm on the rear wheels stretches the limit of the camber adjustment.
keep in mind that you need to modify your studs with less that 23mm.
This was the most NO GO for me.
Second H&R are known for the best quality and have the German TUV.
 
  #17  
Old 05-16-2016, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by impulsiv View Post
@ Zettinger: your car has no spacers up front and is on stock springs, right? Any rubbing issues in the back?


@embdenb: I don't see how adding spacers can affect camber
Correct. Only spacers in the rear and stock Sport Package suspension.
No Rubbing and the tire is flush at the fender.
 
  #18  
Old 05-16-2016, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by impulsiv View Post
@ Zettinger: your car has no spacers up front and is on stock springs, right? Any rubbing issues in the back?


@embdenb: I don't see how adding spacers can affect camber

I believe the Aston Martin is aligned with a slight negative camber at the rear wheels.
(Negative camber is when the tire is not vertical, but the top of the tire leans inwards)
Now by adding spacers you change the lever arm length. (point from the bottom of the suspension at the wheel hub to the point where it is attached to the chassis).
This magnifies any negative camber built into the rear suspension, and continues to magnify negative camber change under suspension travel. I will not discuss what this does to the scrub radius because its of little concern to street cars.
Lowering the car produces the same result; it changes the lever arm angle, producing negative camber.
Negative camber, if excessive, will cause the rear tire to wear on the inside tread.

Even if there was no negative camber built into the rear suspension, changing the lever arm length means that more negative camber is applied to the rear wheels under suspension travel.

Finally I am not against hub centric adapters. (I have 13mm on the fronts and 20mm on the rears)
I just believe that there is a point where the negatives outweigh the positives.
 
  #19  
Old 05-16-2016, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by embdenb View Post
I believe the Aston Martin is aligned with a slight negative camber at the rear wheels.
(Negative camber is when the tire is not vertical, but the top of the tire leans inwards)
Now by adding spacers you change the lever arm length. (point from the bottom of the suspension at the wheel hub to the point where it is attached to the chassis).
This magnifies any negative camber built into the rear suspension, and continues to magnify negative camber change under suspension travel. I will not discuss what this does to the scrub radius because its of little concern to street cars.
Lowering the car produces the same result; it changes the lever arm angle, producing negative camber.
Negative camber, if excessive, will cause the rear tire to wear on the inside tread.

Even if there was no negative camber built into the rear suspension, changing the lever arm length means that more negative camber is applied to the rear wheels under suspension travel.

Finally I am not against hub centric adapters. (I have 13mm on the fronts and 20mm on the rears)
I just believe that there is a point where the negatives outweigh the positives.
Sorry I'm getting confused.
Every sport oriented car has some camber in the rear to get more cornering grip.

However 20 to 23mm is not much more.
Even different tire brands can be wider or smaller than 3mm.

You say 20 is the way to go (while modifying the studs) and 23 will ruin your camber suspension?

I'll do probably the 11mm H&R spacers in the front to use the OEM studs and not ruining my camber.
 
  #20  
Old 05-16-2016, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Zettinger View Post
Sorry I'm getting confused.
Every sport oriented car has some camber in the rear to get more cornering grip.

However 20 to 23mm is not much more.
Even different tire brands can be wider or smaller than 3mm.

You say 20 is the way to go (while modifying the studs) and 23 will ruin your camber suspension?

I'll do probably the 11mm H&R spacers in the front to use the OEM studs and not ruining my camber.
I am not saying 23mm will ruin your suspension.
I am saying that the thicker the spacer the more negative camber it produces under suspension travel, and that there is a point where the negatives outweigh the positives.
That number could be 23 or 43, I don't know.

BTW, I recommend a four wheel alignment whenever spacers are added.
 
  #21  
Old 05-16-2016, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by embdenb View Post
I am not saying 23mm will ruin your suspension.
I am saying that the thicker the spacer the more negative camber it produces under suspension travel, and that there is a point where the negatives outweigh the positives.
That number could be 23 or 43, I don't know.

BTW, I recommend a four wheel alignment whenever spacers are added.
The problem with spacers in more the stress on the bearings while Spacers in the 20s shouldn't affect.
So far I never had an alignment problem due to spacers. Maybe I never added enough to experience a problem.

The X5 rocks 25mm in the rear with 315 tires. I just replaced the tires and they were even down.

I will do an alignment with the Aston when the H&R springs are installed.
 
  #22  
Old 05-16-2016, 05:07 PM
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Just wondering:

1. Indy or AM install for the springs?
a. Indy Price expected --????
b. AM shop price expected -- ????

I am going to start to make my decision between the V8 and the DB models, but spacers and springs are definite on both for me likely and want to budget for this right off the bat.

Thanks.
 
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