Does anyone know the bypass filter O-ring dimensions, cross section diameter and ring diameter?

 

PM Telum01, he knows the answer but better yet he knows where you can get a new one for a great price

 

I stick with the OEM ones for these. Getting diameter and cross section is easy, but just as important is the durameter and exact material. These O-rings see a lot of heat cycling as well as exposure to hot oil. If there's an issue with these, you're likely to get an oil leak, and the bypass filters have to be removed to fix the issue, which might necessitate an oil change. So I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I've got plenty of OEM ones on hand that I can measure, but I wouldn't feel comfortable with it personally.


Thanks for the shout-out

 

If you can provide those dimensions, I'd appreciate the help!

 

Take one of them to a local hydraulic shop , tell them you want a high temp O ring this size . It will probably be brown in colour rather than the black neoprene .
They may make you buy a few as they are so cheap . Done .

 

Material selection is pretty simple, the industry uses NBR for oil seals, including oil filters. I could wait to measure the ring off my car during an oil change but they stretch a little and for convenience it would be nice to have them on hand before I start.

 

I'm sorry, but I was trying to politely decline. There's too much liability involved for that specific application. I'd need to do a lot of testing with them myself before I recommended something.

 

The oil bypass filter O-rings are 1 1/2"ID X 1 11/16"OD X 3/32"CS. Nitrile (aka NBR or Buna-N) Durometer 70 Shore A. These are $0.09 each retail from the online store that I bought them. Aston marks them up by 100X.

 

what is a bypass filter?

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...il-change.html

 

I have 15 or 20 of them at the shop, email me if you need one. No charge

 

Can confirm 1 1/2"ID X 1 11/16"OD X 3/32"CS (commonly used size number seems to be "128") 70A is correct as far as I can tell (I just took OEM ones out). I got milspec instead of normal NBR (275F instead of 250F service temp rating) but I think HNBR (green color, 300F temp rating) is actually better. It was just out of stock online at the time. https://www.theoringstore.com/store/...oducts_id=5340

Honestly it kind of worries me to see black O-rings from the factory because the black ones are rated 250F max, which you can exceed on the track. I want to use green after I am done with the milspec ones.

I found that the filter thingies seemed poorly constructed on my car. They're made of a steel ring brazed? to perforated sheet metal rolled up into a tube, but mine had gaps between the perforated sheet and the rest of the metal, so the filter wasn't really doing much filtering. The seam where the folded sheet metal comes together also wasn't welded so stuff can get through there too (the perforations are also pretty big). I think the purpose is to stop large debris from damaging the pump to keep more of the engine salvageable in a failure. The dealer also managed to strip the filter cover bolts at some point (it was only ever dealer serviced), but the covers really don't have much force applied to them and the bolts don't really work themselves loose.

The OEM sump plug bolt is just a normal M14 and I did find that the rubber seal seemed kind of stiff, and it was also not easy to pick the rubber seal off for hypothetical replacement. I put on a new generic drain plug with rubber gasket, though I will admit that the OEM piece was better finished (I think the generic was just a raw forging that was threaded while the OEM piece had the head cleaned up with machining).