Hey guys,

I am looking at getting either a Paint protection film (Xpel) or a nano ceramic coating put on my car and wanted to know what you guys would recommend.

I bought my V12 Vantage used and there are a few rock chips on the front of the car. I am looking at having them touched up or re-sprayed and then applying either a PPF or nano coating.

The nano coatings are running around $1k. The Xpel I was looking at was around $2.5k for the grille, hood, mirrors, and front fenders up to the doors. The installer is going to wrap all the film around the edges to eliminate most of the seams.

So my main question is this, do most of the nano coatings actually help prevent rock chips? I see information out there claiming a 9H hardness which will "prevent rock chips" from damaging paint but I cannot seem to find many reviews if this is just marketing fluff or actually works in the real world. I live in Ohio and there is constantly new construction around me which I try to avoid but impossible at times.

I prefer the look of the coatings over the film but after I get the front touched up I want to make sure everything is protected as I am assuming the paint job is going to cost a pretty penny to get touched up.

Please let me know you guys experience if any. The paint shop I took it to sells "sapphire V1" nano coating. Doing a bit of research it looks like it was originally developed for the aviation community and recently started marketing to auto as well.

 

Hey Matt,
I'd go with Xpel to prevent rock chips (I have most of my car wrapped in it). From what I've been told the coatings are for minor things and don't do a lot for rock chips. PPF works really well, I've had some pretty big rocks hit the car without damaging the film or paint...can't say the same for the windshield.

Oh and one other thing, if you go with film make sure the installer has a good reputation. I've seen cars with knife marks on the paint...film was installed by a high-end dealer.

 

IME clear film will guard against rock chips better than any coating, but realistically, if the rock is big enough or hits fast enough, you'll get a chip no matter what.

 

+2 for Xpel. Great warranty and self-healing. I have seen it stand up to the toughest conditions. I ran my 911 turbo through a road rally and Xpel stood up to the challenge. It's a no-brainer for any car you care about.

 

+1 for both! The clear film is really for the rock chips, but the nano coatings (Gyeon is the one I'm going with) are more there to protect the rest of the car paint from environmental damage (and folks that do those applications should do it over the clear film as well). This will make cleaning bugs, sap, etc. much easier and prevent it from damaging the clear coat/paint on the parts of the car that aren't wrapped.

 

This I totally agree with.

Having said that if your basic question is what will protect better against chips = Xpel no doubt. Any coating will not.

 

not sure if you've heard but a lot of ppl actually will get xpel, THEN get that nano coated for additional protection for the ppf itself, as well as to give it hydrophobic qualities.

 

Xpel primarily but I would do both. The prep for nano is labour intensive and so is xpel. Wash clay bar and contaminant removal and polish ( optional ) but suggested. Then nano the whole car and xpel. Do the prep and nano yourself to save cash.

 

you're right, in fact i guess the way to 100% the car is to do what you mentioned, then apply another coating to the xpel afterwards as well.

 

Ok, thanks for all the info guys. I assumed the body shop that recommended the coating was over promising on the results quite a bit.

I think I am going to look at getting the grille, front splitter, hood, front fenders, and mirrors wrapped with expel and then a nano coating over the whole thing afterwards. Sounds like a pretty bullet proof combination.

I'll make sure to post some pics etc. once it is done. I have to get a few paint areas touched up first so it will probably be this winter before I get it done. The paint shop I was at told me you could not put a paint protection film on for a month after painting or else the paint cannot cure properly. I think that means I will try and get that done this winter so I can get it painted and then have it sit in the garage for a month before the film is put on. I don't want to risk having the paint all touched up and then drive around for a month before it is protected.

I also have an ALP priority laser jammers and Beltronics radar going in on the 9th. I will post some pictures once that is done as well for anyone curios in that combination.

 

I would do the nano before the xpel

 

paint areas touched up? like few specific spots or paint correction? some ppl drop 2-3k for a full paint correction, apply nano, then ppf, then another hydrophobic coating. in fact some ppl will do that off the show room floor after taking delivery of a high end car (if you talk to real detailers who know what they're talking about, they'll tell you all about why even cars that's just come off the assembly line can use paint correction). in any case, it all depends on how **** you are, and how deep your pockets are as well

 

Yup, this. I should be picking up my new baby this Sat, and it will be off for surface paint correction, clear wrap, and Gyeon quartz over the whole thing. Like you say, even straight from the factory, there are some paint defects.

 

All right guys, here is a semi-professional input to this conversation.

Yes, I told a member who bought a Vanquish and was waiting on it to NOT let the dealer touch the car period. Or the deal was off. Immediately take the car by rollback to a certain Paint Correction specialist, have him compound and polish it to perfection, then apply the Xpel Ultimate. I will walk you guys through the process and WHY.

Paint--- Ask yourself this. Does your paint flex? Does it grow and shrink as the panels do under heat and cold weather? The answer is a simple yes it does. So moving on with that thought.

Nano Ceramic/Glass coatings----------- 9h hardness, 2-8 year pending manufacturer, all things promised by companies. True? Yes to a degree it is. Now imagine applying 1-2 coats of glass coatings onto your paint. What happens? The product bonds to the paint and hardens similar to a shell. Now ask yourself this question? What happens now, especially after 4-5 years, to the paint as it has been flexing over time due to heat and cold temperatures? It had a shell on it right? So, does the shell start showing marks, cracks etc...... No one knows the answer to this question. The products have not been out long enough to thoroughly test them long term and the effects they might, or might not have on the finish. So are you willing to apply this to your 1-200k vehicle? I am not for sure, and PS I love coatings. So keep on reading----

I use 22ple products for my coatings. I think they are awesome and provide not only the protection but the gloss levels I desire. I feel they are just fine for the sub 80k cars that wont be kept long or they will get worn out. The daily drivers if you will. ie..... most of my cars LOL. Now keep reading for more

22ple HPC on Aston Martins----- I would use this product, 2-3 coats, on the WHEELS, both inside and out first. Then I removed the wheel well liners and coat them also with the product. Just because I am OCD about cars, I coat the underbelly pans and plastic with the product also. Exhaust tips, and any other plastic or rubber trim type parts there are. That is it, no more, not even a smidgen. Oh, except for interior bits can be done to for increased gloss and ease of cleaning. Just as a Disclaimer----- Gyeon, Kamikazee, GTechniq etc... can be used also, I have just found the products I have used on many cars and know what works at least for me the best. The products being used on these surfaces allows for just soap and water to be used to clean the whole car, no more degreasers or APC's.

Paint Correction is the removal of any and all marring, scratches, swirls etc...25% of your marks come from the washing stage and 75% come from the drying stage. Unless its a new car, even the best detailer will tell you a 100% correction is almost impossible. I usually get about a 90% or a little better pending condition beforehand, each car is different. I also do a 4 step process on my personal cars. Compound, Polish, Nano Polish, Special Polish mix with DI water to jewel the paint.

The Paint on the car is highly suggested to be Paint Corrected first, before the application of anything, especially the Xpel Ultimate. There are some out there who will show that the PPL will lessen or eliminate some of the swirls in the paint by the application. However, you should want the paint to be as perfect as possible, with the highest level of shine you can get, then apply the Xpel. This will allow for the best result. Anyone who walks a AM owner away from this is just trying to get the final sale and business. You have the money, sorry but just spend it unless you do this yourself.

Xpel Ultimate------- I would ONLY use an highly trained applier for this work on a high end car. I would NOT use a pre-cut pattern either. The pre-cut pattern will show most all the edges and regardless of how good the car is maintained they usually will show wear or dirt or wax unless your OCD about it. If you have a trained person who can free cut the material that is the best, because they can wrap the edges to make the almost disappear. Problem with this, is less trained people will put cut marks on the paint. They will be using a razor blade to cut it ON the car, so only experience and someone who is used to working high end cars should do this. IT will cost you though, but in the end a Front End wrap is the best.

Now on to protection of everything. PS you DO NOT put coatings on before the Xpel or any PPF. I personally will use AMMONYC Reflex as my base coat. This provides some protection, will give you the same gloss that coatings will, but will allow the paint to "Breathe" still. 2-3 coats for the best possible gloss. It lasts 1 year, but for me I would apply every 6 months. Takes 30 min for the whole car. I then would follow up topping it with the AMMONYC Skin which is a matched sealant to protect it further. For a non rain driving garage car, a Carnauba wax to top that "Creme" to bring depth to the already incredible gloss level.

Your paint and Xpel will be totally protected, have the gloss levels you desire, and there is NO worries of anything possible damaging the finish ever, other than normal things. Cost for these protection products is the same as one bottle of glass coating, will provide many more applications and provide the same amount of protection. For me, winner winner. Now you can substitute the Skin and Creme parts with Pinnacle Souveran, Pinnacle Black Label products, for Carnauba the SwissVax, Pinnacle, Blackfire, and other HIGH END professional products easily available on the market. Just a click away.


So, summing it up for you------ Get the chips done, after a paint correction is done. Then allow for the paint to cure, (remember, if cold the paint might need more than the 30 days to expel the gasses), then have the Xpel applied. They can do that likely in your garage. Then you can apply the rest with ease. Just use the proper foam applicators, and proper Micro Fiber towels to take the products off. Simple as that.

 

Read the above please