It's Alive!
#33
Carbon is coming along nicely too!
#34
Oh also doing a new steering wheel from Ivan @ DCTMotorsports, but with yellow striping at the 12 o'clock and I'm sending him the same yellow thread that I'm using for my new interior work done by New Life Upholstery.
#36
Lose the steering lock?
Btw, the "newer" remotes are just another remodelled version of the Aston Volvo style remotes, just has a different case. You can take the circuit board from your old remote and swap into the new remove. That will work for the door locks, now for the ignition. Just rip out the key loop area from the metal tibbe key and you should find the chip inside..now just swap into the new remote case.
No need to lose the steering lock or code any key for your project :-)
Btw, the "newer" remotes are just another remodelled version of the Aston Volvo style remotes, just has a different case. You can take the circuit board from your old remote and swap into the new remove. That will work for the door locks, now for the ignition. Just rip out the key loop area from the metal tibbe key and you should find the chip inside..now just swap into the new remote case.
No need to lose the steering lock or code any key for your project :-)
#37
Lose the steering lock?
Btw, the "newer" remotes are just another remodelled version of the Aston Volvo style remotes, just has a different case. You can take the circuit board from your old remote and swap into the new remove. That will work for the door locks, now for the ignition. Just rip out the key loop area from the metal tibbe key and you should find the chip inside..now just swap into the new remote case.
No need to lose the steering lock or code any key for your project :-)
Btw, the "newer" remotes are just another remodelled version of the Aston Volvo style remotes, just has a different case. You can take the circuit board from your old remote and swap into the new remove. That will work for the door locks, now for the ignition. Just rip out the key loop area from the metal tibbe key and you should find the chip inside..now just swap into the new remote case.
No need to lose the steering lock or code any key for your project :-)
What that means is that I will loose the functionality of steering lock by removing the conventional lock / barrel mechanical system.
The mechanical steering lock is obviously not enabled or monitored by an electrical system, meaning that I can completely remove the system and if it's not present, there will be no adverse effect.
So yes, this means the job I need to do is make the glass key docking station behave the same way as the mechanical staged ignition switch, and graft my old remote fob buttons into the new glass key fob. And finally, wire the security crystal receiver from the ignition barrel into the new docking station, so the crystal out of the key I put into the glass key enables the car's security systems.
So yes, mechanical steering lock will be omitted with the only downside being loss of a security feature.
The job entails (besides getting the physical parts):
(1) Wiring of the ignition barrel needs to port across to docking station to give all stages of system power up and engine start.
(2) Crystal security chip in body of key needs to go into glass key, and the reader of crystal in ignition barrel needs to be wired into docking station and be in sufficient proximity to glass key when inserted into docking station.
(3) The inputs from crank enable signal (red light) function from current button needs to port across into docking station, and when engine has started, the start signal needs to port across into docking station to inhibit further cranking.
Viola!
#38
Great project.
If I can offer a small tip? In regard to the angel eyes (halos) that you are installing you might consider frosting the lens so the LED's are not visible when the car is off in daylight. This is easily accomplished by some fine sanding prior to install to give them an opaque appearance. It's a preference thing but most LED's after a short while exposed to UV develop an awful yellowish hue that is masked by the frosting. Plus the added diffraction really makes the glow evenly. Looking forward to seeing this complete.
LED's are visible through the clear halo lens
Here's one being sanded prior to going in a BMW
If I can offer a small tip? In regard to the angel eyes (halos) that you are installing you might consider frosting the lens so the LED's are not visible when the car is off in daylight. This is easily accomplished by some fine sanding prior to install to give them an opaque appearance. It's a preference thing but most LED's after a short while exposed to UV develop an awful yellowish hue that is masked by the frosting. Plus the added diffraction really makes the glow evenly. Looking forward to seeing this complete.
LED's are visible through the clear halo lens
Here's one being sanded prior to going in a BMW
#39
Great project.
If I can offer a small tip? In regard to the angel eyes (halos) that you are installing you might consider frosting the lens so the LED's are not visible when the car is off in daylight. This is easily accomplished by some fine sanding prior to install to give them an opaque appearance. It's a preference thing but most LED's after a short while exposed to UV develop an awful yellowish hue that is masked by the frosting. Plus the added diffraction really makes the glow evenly. Looking forward to seeing this complete.
LED's are visible through the clear halo lens
Here's one being sanded prior to going in a BMW
If I can offer a small tip? In regard to the angel eyes (halos) that you are installing you might consider frosting the lens so the LED's are not visible when the car is off in daylight. This is easily accomplished by some fine sanding prior to install to give them an opaque appearance. It's a preference thing but most LED's after a short while exposed to UV develop an awful yellowish hue that is masked by the frosting. Plus the added diffraction really makes the glow evenly. Looking forward to seeing this complete.
LED's are visible through the clear halo lens
Here's one being sanded prior to going in a BMW
#41
Did he keep that last Karat for himself during the process?
#42
Lol. I'm just a big tipper. Actually, the in-tank gold plating solution produces a hard gold deposit of 99.8% purity. This equates to 23 carat. A very small amount of cobalt is co-deposited which makes the deposit harder and more wear-resistant than pure gold.
#43
IF so, what was your old one covered with?
#44
That's an amazing build. Congratulations !!!
__________________
Stuart Dickinson
Managing Director
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
206 Maple Avenue
Oliver, BC
Canada V2A 4W6
Office: (1)250-485-5126
www.velocityap.com
Stuart Dickinson
Managing Director
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
206 Maple Avenue
Oliver, BC
Canada V2A 4W6
Office: (1)250-485-5126
www.velocityap.com
#45
Very very very interested in the process for the Crystal Fob like I am sure many others on here are also. I am getting several of the Jag fobs made up that a thread covered so will be ok, But I like modernizing the looks. You did have to get a new Waterfall didnt you? I was thinking the hole size was larger on those?
IF so, what was your old one covered with?
IF so, what was your old one covered with?