Tail lamp condensation, hosed on warranty.
#17
I had those replaced twice on my 2015 DB9. Heard about a newer version which didn't help.
For anybody interested, the part numbers for the most recent replacement are:
Left DG33-37-10791 (different part number this time. Replacement part number in 2015 B-DG33-13405-AC)
Right DG33-37-10792 (same part number second time)
Both have black carbon fiber.
More in this thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-reliable.html
For anybody interested, the part numbers for the most recent replacement are:
Left DG33-37-10791 (different part number this time. Replacement part number in 2015 B-DG33-13405-AC)
Right DG33-37-10792 (same part number second time)
Both have black carbon fiber.
More in this thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-reliable.html
Last edited by cuddapah; 05-18-2017 at 03:50 PM.
#21
I didn't wash the car after both were replaced recently. Car wasn't in rain either. Yeterday before driving, I checked the car. No condensation. I drove about 80miles in around 50+ degrees weather. After parking the car, noticed condensation. Very strange
#22
Does this water condensation cause any electric issues ? I am asking this because, for the first time, the in-built GPS unit turned blank and restarted itself while I am driving using GPS.
#24
I've had 5 Vantages - most of them had this problem during my ownership, new and used. I'd send them in and upgrade them for what it would cost to replace them with new lights that will surely fail again:
#25
Cuddapah - yes, I think it will eventually. One of my taillights failed from this condensation. (although I think there are really 2 levels - light condensation, then enough water to break into droplets).
To clarify though, the LEDs not working should not affect the rest of the electrical system. You may or may not even get a dashboard error when they fail (I didn't)
My brake light on one side failed soon after
I took the light apart, but I couldn't figure out what part failed on the circuit board. I do see though that it's not all that well protected (typically, I'd expect a silicone or urathane coating on the board - these ones don't have it).
My solution is a replacement circuit board - I'm in the testing phase now, but looks like it'll work fine. (I made a silly error reversing one of the connectors, so I need to revise the board, but I was able to make it work for testing.).
Matt
To clarify though, the LEDs not working should not affect the rest of the electrical system. You may or may not even get a dashboard error when they fail (I didn't)
My brake light on one side failed soon after
I took the light apart, but I couldn't figure out what part failed on the circuit board. I do see though that it's not all that well protected (typically, I'd expect a silicone or urathane coating on the board - these ones don't have it).
My solution is a replacement circuit board - I'm in the testing phase now, but looks like it'll work fine. (I made a silly error reversing one of the connectors, so I need to revise the board, but I was able to make it work for testing.).
Matt
#27
Deckman...I am sorry to hear of this problem. Yea, I doubt anyone would swap your problem for theirs.
H-O had a problem but his cleared up after driving the car and having an oil change, I read on one threat. I wonder if you changed the oil and drove the car if it would clear up? I would use the 10-60 not the thinner 5-50 as some guys use.
Otherwise..if not bad...personally, I would let it. I thought AM fixed this problem around 09. Perhaps contact Irish07 and Mike at Bradford Rose on PM for tips. Both guys seem decent and honest from the threats I read here and on Piston-heads.
Best of luck...
H-O had a problem but his cleared up after driving the car and having an oil change, I read on one threat. I wonder if you changed the oil and drove the car if it would clear up? I would use the 10-60 not the thinner 5-50 as some guys use.
Otherwise..if not bad...personally, I would let it. I thought AM fixed this problem around 09. Perhaps contact Irish07 and Mike at Bradford Rose on PM for tips. Both guys seem decent and honest from the threats I read here and on Piston-heads.
Best of luck...
#28
Try fixing them before replacement. Common area @ outer edge needs resealed and when re-fitted needs a gap of 3mm away from the body to allow movement. Apply soap around sealing edge and apply low pressure thru back vent (remove grey cap to allow) and you will see the leak!
#29
Aldv I use 10-60 always. My next change will be in the spring. Also I won't fix the slight leak until I see it starting to drip. Then I will finally dig deep into my wallet! As for driving it I know this is an individual decision but once salt goes down on the roads I don't usually take it out for the entire winter. It rained this week so I am considering taking it to meet my wife for dinner tonight. Then you have the cold temps with summer tires.
Sorry for the thread hijack. I'll stop now
Sorry for the thread hijack. I'll stop now
Last edited by deckman; 01-26-2018 at 01:05 PM.
#30
Deckman...you did not hi-Jack the threat. Hi-Jacking is like I once posted" Service in NJ" a complete threat with replies wiped off the forum it seems. LOL Now that is hi-jacking---
Yes--I will not drive in extreme cold or snow. This weekend is 50 plus so I will be out.
As for the leaking lights...I still believe a poll needs taken and given to Aston Martin management with a nice note asking for a solution from their engineers. Otherwise, your only solution is to repair yourself or buy Matt's board, which seems like the simple answer and fairly priced.
Afternoon Guys....
Yes--I will not drive in extreme cold or snow. This weekend is 50 plus so I will be out.
As for the leaking lights...I still believe a poll needs taken and given to Aston Martin management with a nice note asking for a solution from their engineers. Otherwise, your only solution is to repair yourself or buy Matt's board, which seems like the simple answer and fairly priced.
Afternoon Guys....