So we have some numbers -

LF - 11 lbs
RF - 5.3 lbs
LR - 5.3 lbs
RR - 2 lbs

So the 2 lbs get's no change.

The 5.3's were checked at the chassis to determine which bushing was causing the most friction and we will take .005 out of the shim, re-fit, and re-check.

The 11 lb is bound thru the rear bushing. We'll take .010 out of it and re-fit.

It's an iterative process until we get it where we want it. If we could get them all to 2lb I would be very happy. I have a feeling the squareness of the mounting tabs will dictate where we end up.

chr

Looking at switching in manual seats. Do any of you have experience installing the resistor and do any of you know about clearing the fault? Is this something that can be done with the Foxwell or would I need OEM service?

Also I would like to remove the seat switches. Can I simply unplug them from the system?

Is there a cover to replace the switch cover in the console or we would need to fabricate?

Thanks
Cliff

Interessting...I was looking at the Nogaro as well.
I was playing with the idea to keep the "electric" seat base, mount the Nogaro onto tit and thus keep the adjustability (except the rear tilt).

Can't help with your questions, though.

There was a guy on pistonheads (Markv8v), who mounted the Nogaro into his Vantage
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...t=1727158&i=20
Maybe check with him.

Thomas

PS: shipping to the states seems to cost a fortune...I saw the Nogaro advertised in England for £640 (excl VAT) with leather sides.

TR - Thank you for the link. I have contacted the owner.


cliff

We are going to run with Pro Drive at Portland on Tuesday so we have been working on re-setting for track work. The Mustang is on the rack so we cut up some block and leveled it to itself on the floor to act as ground plane. We painted the floor so we can get back pretty quickly.

We set pressures at the track by monitoring tire temperatures. We have some data from Sept so we pressurized the tires to the hot pressures used on the track.

We put the car up on the block and then loosened all four lower control arms.

We lowered the car to 3.00 inches from the ground plane to the bottom of the front subframe. We set the rear to 3.375. We used plastic bags between the block and the tires to minimize scrub.

Next we set the caster and were able to achieve 5.5 deg per side. We were unable to get this in Sept perhaps poor setup.

For camber we achieved -2.5 front and - 1.75 rear. These settings did match our September setup. We have switched from a Longacre caster/camber to a Smart camber gauge. We checked the two gauges against each other and they correlated very well. The Smart Camber gauge is easier to use because we don't have to take the tires on and off to make adjustments.

We are running 275 35 18 BFG R1 all around. It helps with expense because we can rotate them.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/1...921/xZnpkE.jpg

The Smart camber gauge is really nice because it utilizes a digital level that can be removed from the triangular camber frame to be used on it's own. We used just the level to help square the Smartstrings frame.

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/6...923/97DU8x.jpg

Next comes toe so today we assembled the smart strings frame and attached it to the car. A 911 has a much blunter nose so the frame is really designed for that. Because the Vantage nose is radius-ed in plan, we needed to move the center tubes in board. The car is sitting so low we had to add some shop towels to keep the frame off of the car.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...1813e79b3e.jpg


The frame fits the rear pretty easily . The strings go around the grooves in the string bars.


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...c0230fb35c.jpg


The frame is setup such that the sting bars lie in the same plane as the center of the wheels. The strings are attached and we used some big nuts to keep tension om the strings.


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...1c2b044943.jpg


the strings need to then be adjusted so they are equi-distance from the wheels. This dimension will not match from front to rear.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...be7ef643de.jpg

That is as far as we got. Tomorrow we will set front to 1/32 out and the rear at 1/16th in. We ran 1/16th out on the front in September. I ran it on the street and the car turned in really quickly. I want to try to run a little less and see if we can connect the transient weight transfer closer to the steering.

Notice we failed to add the requisite surrogate weight to the car. I am working on this. My main goal is to run it and re-check the uppers for binding.

So

Establish Ground Plane
Loosen Control Arms
(Add Surrogate Weight)
Set Ride Height
Torque Control Arms
Set Caster
Set Camber
Set Toe
Iterate Last Three

The Smartstrings greatly simplifies setup and checking of toe.

Our upper control arm drop weight has all four uppers dropping from 3.0 - 3.4 lbs. Very happy with that.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...7e97b72c3f.jpg

Really excited to run it again :) Going to see if we can get the Go-Pro working with it.

chr

Now about seats. I was put in touch with a fellow Aston owner who had the Cobra seats installed in his car by Bamford Rose. If I understand correctly, the seat position sensor was cut off the original seat and wired back into the car.

Question - What all does this sensor control? I do not have memory seats . Is it also tied into safety systems?

I ask because is there a chance I don't have this system?

Thanks

cliff

I think even without seat memory there are some end switches.
(there are threads/videos about seats not moving properly after battery disconnect, and needed to be re-set).
However, why you would need that with mechanical seat runners is beyond my imagination - well maybe related to airbags?
But if it would be end switches, it should simply be open or closed circuits...

Thomas

Have not gotten anything sorted and have not thoroughly researched for available information.

Based on Marks responses I think the airbag delete will be straight forward. The seat sensor is another issue, but I am feeling more confident about figuring it out. If it all goes to hell I'll have Stuart fix it when he installs the 4 point --- hellooooo Stuart.

Rich - I know you have had the consoles apart. Do you see any reason I could not remove the seat switches and fabricate some blocking plates for the console? I would prefer not to leave the seat switches. If you have the right resistors, mighty as well send me a couple :confused: In one of Marks responses he stated the resistor is 2.3 ohms.

TR - thanks for the help - I am making headway :). I need to do some more study. Pretty sure I am going to order a set. Deciding on trim level.

Leaning towards matching the Aston stitching in all black.

It's a track car - :D

chr

At Cobra they do really nice stuff:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...1d810b2b2d.jpg

However, I decided to go more into the GT direction,
replaing the seats center leather pieces with Alcantara and mount a seat ventillation...

I already have a car for trackwork - so try to increase the comfort bias - holiday with Vantage in Scotland coming soon.

Thomas

Love the ventilation - have to have :)


chr

Here is my prototype sent off to Cobra. Does anyone know of the available materials used for the rings.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...e0f37a5dd6.jpg

chr

The rebound adjuster for the KW. It is a separate piece but works very easily. Just unfortunate that Aston chased beauty before function on the tower brace. Still workable.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...a579c812c2.jpg

Nice!
The "rings" are called eyelets,
and you can get them in brass-plated (as pictured), zink-plated (silver), brownish (rare) and stainless.
You find them at a saddlery-shop or the e-net, they are also used for ships, tents...

Thomas

I thought they were grommets :D

I sent Cobra a picture of the 06 Ford GT seats. I am hoping they can do something in black brass .

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...e94c1a66a8.jpg


chr

What a chassis -

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...0975f3f86b.jpg

Weighs in at 3451 with 1/4 tank. Using Rich's data (Time to Get Nimble) we could be at 3379 with new chairs.

Of course these things never go as planned. :confused:

chr

Last night I got to thinking about the ride height and I remembered Kanga supplied us with the GT4 specs for ride height so I dug around and found the spec.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...ec19928831.jpg
.
I got worried we had blown the ride height which would have blown the setup. Turns out we had the front right, but used the wrong reference at the back. Luckily we over lowered by .100 to the reference we used which put it to spec at the right reference location. Interestingly the shop manual uses fender to ground clearance which is a testament to their manufacturing tolerances. Muscle cars are good to 1/2 inches - You could never use the fenders on a muscle car - LOL. We had to set it down on 2x6's and drive off - the jack won't go underneath.

We deviate from spec because we setup with a forward chassis rake of 3/8". Interesting spec calls for a parallel bottom to ground. Perhaps the sta-bar mount is not in the same plane as the front cross member. We'll have to check that out.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...a96a015bc6.jpg

We ran the car without crashing it. Here is the ride height loading on the trailer.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...2e9d6d77a3.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...beccdce927.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...aa3a043b4c.jpg
We blew the ride height pretty badly. I say that because we introduced bump steer on the back straight. It is off camber and the car was wandering. I was a bit alarmed until I figured out what I think we did. Because we did not have the requisite ballast in the car, we over lowered it. When we did that we dropped into a non linear section of the bump steer curve. I could be wrong about this, but I assume Aston knew how far they could lower it without compromising the suspension geometry. When we got it back the first thing we did was check the difference with 75 kg of ballast in it - it lowered it another .1875 (3/16) inches. That means we were running nearly .600 lower then we were last fall.

My good friend an co-driver Mike Walters is a pretty good size guy and he said we could feel the mud flaps dragging on the back straight. At 157 lbs I did not experience this, but I did experience the bump steer.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...3c9a830d5f.jpg
The bullet ran great all day. In fact it seemed like the more heat we got into it the better it ran. We run clean oil and brake fluid every time we run. When we ran it last fall the oil was black when we got it home. I was in shock and asked our machinist about it. He laughed and said "no telling what you guy's blew out of that thing". This time the oil was a very light honey color.

The Brakes - By the afternoon I was using the brakes as hard as our Mustang and it stopped every time. The pedal was getting longer and longer until finally at the end of the day I got "Low Brake Fluid Level Drive Safely". We pulled it and and took it home. My best lap of the day was a 1:29.16. I wish the pedals were adjustable. The throw of the brake pedal leaves us lower than where we need to be for optimal heel and toe. I need to try to figure out away to lower the gas pedal or get com-pliancy out of the system. I have my eye on the Brembo GT-S calipers. The O.Z. wheels are back cut quite a bit in the spokes and there appears to be plenty of room radially out. Brembo has a template you can down load and print out to scale so we are going to give that a try. Stuart is trying to fit a set on a V12 with the same wheels so I am kind of holding out for him.

The Transmission - and absolute thing of beauty and joy. So easy.

The Engine - We were not getting passed and we were tripping the traction control in 3rd gear coming out of turn 2. The acceleration from 6700 to red line is astonishing. We are done with the traction control. We've left ti on for both days, but it is just becoming such a nuisance.

KW V3 Coil Over - We started with everything maxed. Mike went out first in the morning and complained the car was skipping thru 7. I took it out and did not have any problem thru 7 but it was under-steering pretty bad thru 6. At lunch we dropped the front rebound from 16/16 to 12/16 and that got us hooking up again. Next time we run it we will start at 14/16 and see how it goes. I have Vivid Racing checking to see if we can swap a little more spring rate into the dampers. Sometime I wish i would have just called Penske. Their stuff is so easy to work with as far as changing spring rates.

Our settings

Front Rebound 12/16 Front - Compression Maxed
Rear Rebound Maxed - Compression Maxed

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...1f33819284.jpg
Here is our new ballast system. When we set it up for the street we will distribute as in the work shop manual. For the track we will pile it all in the drivers chair.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...4b7c991f05.jpg

We pulled the AIM camera from the Mustang and put it in the Vantage so we have some video. I just have to figure out how to upload it.

We pulled the upper control arms apart today to check the bushings

Fronts settled at 2.7 lbs.
Rears settled at 3.

Lastly our plastic gasp cap worked great and we did not have a CEL the next day.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...a7a0560ff5.jpg

Even with bump steer, the car is very easy to drive fast.

chr

Which rear wing are you driving?? looking real good and probably good for some extra downforce.

Rich - thanks for the heads up - when ordering the V8 is specifically listed. I think the problem will be radial with a 380 mm disk and the caliper sitting on top. About 1/2 inch radially, but the caliper configuration could kill it on an 18" wheel. That said, If I get it to work on an 18" not sure I will be able to run the caliper width with the BC's.

Jan - Both the splitter and rear spoiler are CF from RSC .


x-chr

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpHY...ature=youtu.be

Last session of the day - "after hours lapping" so we had it to ourselves. What a great day :)

chr

Question on mustang hood
 

Hi Chr... I have followed your thread.
while off topic my son has a 5.0 coyote engine with both engine and transmission tuned...2013 model

We are crazy guys and work 6-7 days a week during the summer...anyway long story short...we had a day off so we had our cars out on our favorite s road that goes into a great straight run.

Today for some reason his hood by the windshield started to flex crazy at 125 in the straight. We backed off and took to my garage but the hood hinges seems fine and tight. The hood seems fine...not bent. This has not happened before...

We removed the sound stuff that covered the two vents...still flexes around 90...

Running my car 09 AM not a problem or any flexing. So nothing on the road or cross winds.

Since you know mustangs better then most any ideas what is screwed up?

Thanks Duke

If I do not answer quickly I am leaving for a job in Alabama tomorrow...

Duke - been out of town just got home. My first and only Mustang is my 03 SN95 Cobra and I only purchased it because I loved the look the later SN95's and the Cobras had IRS. Without the IRS I would never have purchased it - LOL.

My thoughts on your situation.

There is too much air being trapped under the hood. The SN95 Cobra had a fiberglass hood the two vents for heat extraction. When we started running it on the track we punched out the plastic flaps so that we could get the largest opening possible. In addition to helping cool it, it also relieved pressure under the hood. I spent a lot of time at SVTPerformance.com. There are very, very knowledgeable Mustang guys there. One in particular did a lot of functional testing of the cooling system and pressure testing with respect to high speed one mile runs with his SN95 Cobra. He designed his own hood which had very deep tunnels to get the air out of the engine compartment.

We eventually stored the stock hood and installed a TruFiber hood to assure we were exhausting as mush as we could out of the engine compartment. That said we never had any trouble with the stock hood once we punched the vents out. My thought, based on the work done at SVTPerformance, was to evacuate the most air we could out of the compartment.

Some things for you to check -

(1) Are the hood stops properly adjusted? They are rubber tipped threaded pins that the hood closes against.

2) Ford runs an air dam of sorts under the cars which create low pressure behind the radiator to help pull pressure out. You could take a look under the car just aft of the radiator and make sure that piece is still fixed. I have heard of that piece coming loose and affecting the pressure in the engine compartment.

Here is a picture of the TruFiber hood on our Cobra. If he is going to run high speed stuff ,he may want to consider a good after market hood. This one is CF but they can be had in other composites and there are other vendors to consider also.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...4a784ca2de.jpg

I would at least check the stops and make sure the under carriage trips are properly fixed.

Another good source for Mustangs is corral.net. It's not a reference I use, but I know there is a very large enthusiast following there.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

cliff

We have set the Vantage up several times for the street and track. It is a time consuming process and we still struggle with repeatability. Using a floor jack to get the car onto the blocks was a complete nightmare so based on the reviews here I purchased a Quick Jack to try to ease the pain. I also purchased some beautiful lite weight foam blocks from Race Ramps to set the car on. That did not work out very well because at track height the car is so low to the ground we cannot add any risers and we could not get the car high enough to slide the block under the tires.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...7c92b30828.jpg

Frustrated we opted for building our on blocks to be used as a permanent setup stand.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...4c197fd405.jpg

The blocks are cut from 4X6 and it is a two tiered system. In order to get a good setup you need really good repeatability. You have to get the friction from tire scrub isolated. On the top blocks we screwed some ABS plastic with the shiny side up. I ordered some slip plate material from Longacre. It sits on top of the ABS and is very, very, slippery. We have used news paper and plastic bags previously, but were unable to get it to work because we did not have it sliding on a smooth surface. I am pretty sure that would still work if it was placed on the ABS. This system really works well - the car just sits right down.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...582f3a16a3.jpg

A couple of the frames being fabricated. The 'U" shape welded on the side is to help with handling.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...3045117e5d.jpg

It took us awhile to get it all setup and tested. The Quick Jack has to be positioned such that it lifts the car and then comes back to point where the blocks slide underneath. We messed around for awhile until we got it.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...b325ef061f.jpg

We taped off the floor and painted references so we could repeatably position the car. The long stripe is to position the car side to side (put the drivers side tires on the line and drive in. The small transverse line you can just see is where the car needs to stop with its front tire contact patch sitting on the line. The quick jack then gets positioned 12" behind the center-line of the front wheel. This is only important because we do not want to have to re-level every time we work on the car. The white tiles are level within .5 degrees to each other and we were chasing our tails trying to perfect it. This was not good enough for repeatability so we added feet to the frames so that we can assure the entire stand is level as well as each block level to itself.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...7da790246b.jpg

The Quick Jack is so nice and the system so much safer that what we were doing. Our goal is to align in under 8 hours. This will help us get there. It is heavy, but it is all modular so the individual pieces are not too bad and it stores well. It feels great with the car sitting on solid blocks.

Side note - using Kanga's 80 mm ride height, you will have to drive the rear tires up on 2x6 to get the jack under the car. :)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...52c27c0071.jpg

Workshop
 

<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->I would like to tell you about a certain company, last time they did me a repaired poweer steering rack and I was impressed. Nice contact, quickly, accurately. https://www.steeringlpsr.com/ its the best workshop I've found recently

Did you ever get around to installing the new fixed seats?

The seats have been ordered, but I was unwilling to pay for air freight so we have to wait on the next boat.

chr

On Mustangs -

LOL - My co-driver Mike and I were just talking about how great the Vantage is on the track. At the end of the conversation he said ' "I can't wait to run the Mustang again". We both agreed it is a cantankerous thing to drive, but for some reason it is still a blast. We did not get to run it this year because we decided to put a true flat bottom with a diffuser out back. It is a lot of work, but we are both anxious to see if we can get down force. We pulled the IRS and replaced all of the pivot points with Delrin. I Isolated the IRS cradle many years ago with POLY. Those are being replaced with UHMW. I cleaned the poly cradle bushings and they looked perfect. We are re-gearing from 3:55 to 3:73. We plan to run the bottom 2.5 inches above the ground with and 8 deg ceiling in the diffuser. The first to tackle is converting to side exhaust.

A few pictures while we wait on seats.

We used Spintech race mufflers - I have no idea if they will be quiet enough. Establishing the floor height is more than I thought - LOL

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...93375d9366.jpg


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...5cefa16291.jpg

Pipes will come thru this opening. We are going to try to push fresh air down the cavity.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...9ef8b9d52a.jpg
Our plan is to fabricate fully then take to exhaust shop to connect from heads to side.We got side tracked running the Vantage but we are setting the Vantage back up for the street so hopefully we will be back on it soon, This is our first prototype of the sill cover.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...b11adf37c3.jpg

I did some reading about the Viper coupes burning themselves down so this was re-engineered with d-zus fastened such that the cover can come off without opening the door. We set the floor 3" above ground. We will add extended ball joints to front to drop the last 1/2 inch. It runs McPherson on the front so this will leave he lower control are parallel to ground. We have to move fuel and brake lines in the tunnel. That will allow us to weld an X between the sub-frame connectors. I am hoping it will help stiffen the beer can, but for sure it will give us something to attach the center section of floor to.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...09d1a14260.jpg

Hill Billies and Mustangs - it's a "Yank" thing :)

chr

thanks for the clarification here.

What I wonder is where the differences in suspension hardware and setup is for the different Vantage models.
From reading The Book, I learned that the was a upgrade/change of "suspension setup" when AM introduced the V8V roadster.
That change was then apparently introduced into the Coupe in 2009.
Then in 2012 they introduced the faster rack.

However, I am interessted to find out what was changed?
If the arms stayed the same (in geometry, not bushings), did they changed the subframe to alter the arms locations and subsequent the geometry?
The knuckle (as far as I could find) seems the same and only changed with the larger brakes (V8VS).

Does anyone have insights here?

Thomas

To add to the confusion and or frustration, I have two lower fronts I purchased for a reported increase in bushing stiffness

Assuming they matched the original geometry on the car, we measured one so I can calculate the motion ratio. Using the OEM spring data published here, I plan to calculate the OEM ride frequency.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...ea68aa1c97.jpg

We media blasted it and it is a 4G43-3A053-BD. We have it's brother and they are listed at Aston Bits for a DB9.

I need to verify I have the correct arms. Stuart if you see this will you confirm I have the correct arms.

x-chr

We got our VAP headers and clutch installed. I am truly astonished. VAP included 2 tunes with the programmer. One with EGR, one without. The CEL was illuminated when I picked it up. I drove it back to the shop and flashed the tune with EGR delete and everything cleared. Drive-ability is exquisite and the sound quite intoxicating. It seems to be a bit higher pitched after the headers. Acceleration is just so smooth and quick. The clutch engagement is so short on the pedal i had to adjust the seat back.

I have not researched the physical deletion of the EGR valve. Are most of you pulling the valve and using a blocking plate or leaving it all connected and only plugging the port?

Big Thanks to Velocity - beautiful stuff.

x-chr

I talked to Chris at VAP. They have handled everything. Leave everything connected as delivered from Aston, plug the port (22x1.5) and be happy. We ordered the plug from McMaster-Carr

chr

Seat update?

Cobra Nogaro
 

The Nogaro's came in. They are very narrow. I am 5'6 160lb and they are narrow. Not sure my 6' 240 co driver is going to fit. The quality is very nice. That said they are very utilitarian. They come with very generic instructions and nothing on the electronics so like everything with building cars a new science project.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...34953f9f60.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...9e78e9583d.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...8d947ac67b.jpg

Have not figured out the 4 spacers yet. Thought perhaps they are spacers between seat and rail but nothing lined up. Hoping they will fall into place when we pull the OEM seats,
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...db85b6e33d.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...ad7dc20a9c.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...356c39d3bd.jpg

I think they will suit my purposes just fine :)

Will get them weighed in the next couple of days.

chr

Does anyone know the stock size of the OEM lap belt retention bolt that attaches the lap belt to the seat? We are thinking of trying to use something like this to secure the OEM lap Belt to the seat. Then we could just clip the harness lap belt in for track work.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...4a581da447.png




x-chr

Mail from Hooked On Driving
 

Why did HOD decide to require SFI or FIA approved Head and Neck restraints for cars with 5 and 6-point harnesses? Simply put, we want to mitigate and reduce risks at our events by applying common sense when we see the opportunity. Our National Leadership Team, including myself, Mike and Mona Arrigo, Paul Richardson, Jon Hart, Adam Ricardel, Teri Barrett, Mike Gerhard, and Tupper Hull are unanimous in this decision.

This is why: Street cars now have amazingly effective three-point restraint systems. In an impact, the belt, retractor, and airbags work as an integrated system to soften the impact by allowing some movement, while “catching” the upper body and head to prevent most injuries. A 5 or 6-point harness, with the addition of a head and neck restraint device, also becomes a system. The harnesses restrain the upper body, and the head and neck restraint device prevents the head and neck from accelerating forward and allowing a dangerous situation and possible injury. We believe that a factory three-point system is safer than a 5 or 6-point harness with no head and neck restraint. Yes, most of us put the harness system in the car to hold us tight as we drive the car hard through turns – a good thing. However, without the addition of a head and neck device, we’ve improved our personal comfort, but at the expense of our safety.

Here is a link to a brief video that is graphic and somewhat alarming, but both people survived this crash – as it was a slow speed slide in to a ditch. PLEASE TAKE A LOOK if you have ANY DOUBT:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g40YatgE_CE

Head and neck restraint devices simply make sense. Head and neck restraint devices are easy to use, making the driver (and passenger if any) much safer. We strongly believe that the one-time cost is worth the benefit.

Our sponsor Wine Country Motor Sports is reducing the cost of approved Head and Neck restraint devices to Team HOD members. Starting today, for 90 days, at the Sonoma Wine Country Motor Sports store in Sonoma, CA, on in-store or phone-in orders, at 800-708-7223, Team HOD members will receive 15% off on any eligible Head and Neck device. This offer will be extended at the Colorado and Florida stores as of February 1st. HOD is NOT benefiting from these sales, and Wine Country Motor Sports is discounting products that are generally not found on sale.

At HOD, safety is our number one priority, and being proactive like this has helped HOD achieve an industry leading safety record. HOD is leading the way in this direction – it is simply the right thing to do. We encourage other organizations to follow. Note that we are allowing a one event grace period as the word gets out and drivers get equipped.
2019 is our 15th year of operation – and we look forward to many more years of safe fun with you on track!

Sincerely,
David Ray, Founder
Hooked On Driving

Head and Neck restraints are certainly a good thing on track.
I'm a fan of the Simpson Hybrid System combined with quick release connectors.
Really easy to use with almost zero reduction in comfort.

These Nogaro's are looking stealth...

Probably the 4 spacers go across the seat underneath the sliders, so to stiffen sideways?

Cobra Nogaro Weight
 

TR - yea we are waiting on a harness bar before we install. Am hoping once we pull the OEM seats we will get it figured out.

Weight with side brackets mounted
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...674b14add9.jpg

Weight with side brackets and sliders
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...3421a65716.jpg
chr