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Stuff I am working on

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Old 12-20-2016, 07:45 PM
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Stuff I am working on

Just wanted to share some photos with you. I sourced some used black calipers, but they were pretty scuffed up so we repainted - not the correct stickers . I could not bring myself to paint the Aston red calipers.

Anyone with KW experience - can you point us in the right direction for street setup?

How stiff to set for the track?



Some beautiful stuff - thank you Stuart





Andrews Chromes - going to run them on the street - gloss black center caps with gloss black lug nuts - coolest bling ever.

I painted my 7 spokes, but wish I had not. May repaint them to original silver, but these chromes are over the top.

No one (except one of you) will ever see the stickers - the chrome will be blinding.




LED with VHT - very nice. Most likely will put on the rear. You can just see the cold air hose to the filters - this will be replaced with black


Modified these flanges to go behind the grill. They pick up cold air and dump to filter area. Radius-ed the inside corners and they get painted black with black hose to filters. Still trying to figure out how to cool the brakes. Aston made this challenging.


Rear spoiler from RSC. CF, but will have painted. I am unsure if black or gray. We need to get it back on the ground at ride height and then decide on color.

Gene working on the car - he is a hot rodder and does incredible things.


chr
 

Last edited by GT3 Chuck; 05-08-2017 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 12-21-2016, 05:39 AM
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Nice. Always appreciate people sharing with pics. Usually ends up costing us a bit with the - I want that too - syndrome.
 
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:46 PM
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Don't I know it.

I am anxious to get the ride height set and get it off the rack so we can really see it. Our plan is to get the suspension set with everything re-assembled and some miles before we start the exhaust. I think we will have to get ourselves psyched up to start that.

chr
 
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:47 AM
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Airbox system removal

Era, Your first picture in this thread illustrates how clean the under headlight areas become without the airboxes...outstanding.

Questions:
1. Is it possible to remove the airboxes without removing the bumper fascia? The bumper fit on my 2007 V8V is exceptional. I do not want to disturb it if it can be avoided.
2. Can the air induction tubing, from center of grille to air box input, be similarly removed and snaked out without pulling the fascia?
3. I just relooked at your air filter stabilizer drawing and assembly pictures in No airboxes=More power thread. Will you sell fabricated sheet aluminum stabilizer parts?

I am no racer, but I think I need Carroll Smiths books...Maybe Santa?
 
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Old 12-23-2016, 08:13 AM
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Love all the unique stuff you're doing with this! Can't wait to see what else you come up with!


Originally Posted by flinder View Post
Era, Your first picture in this thread illustrates how clean the under headlight areas become without the airboxes...outstanding.

Questions:
1. Is it possible to remove the airboxes without removing the bumper fascia? The bumper fit on my 2007 V8V is exceptional. I do not want to disturb it if it can be avoided.
2. Can the air induction tubing, from center of grille to air box input, be similarly removed and snaked out without pulling the fascia?
3. I just relooked at your air filter stabilizer drawing and assembly pictures in No airboxes=More power thread. Will you sell fabricated sheet aluminum stabilizer parts?

I am no racer, but I think I need Carroll Smiths books...Maybe Santa?
1) Yes, you can remove the airboxes without removing the front fascia. There are a few bolts around the airbox that hold it in place - three, I think. The MAF housing tube is a twist-lock, you'll need to disconnect that as well. IIRC, the inlet hose (going into the airbox from the grill) is just a slip-in, so it's not actually fastened to the airbox, but I might be wrong on that.

2) If that's possible, you'll probably have to do it from the front. Remove the grill and then you'll have access to the inlet:


Once the grill is out of the way, you'll have access to just about everything. However, getting the intake inlet out from behind the front bumper armature might be the challenge (just a guess, I haven't tried removing it yet). You can see the inlet in the video above, it's right there in the Youtube preview image, too.
 
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Last edited by Redpants; 12-23-2016 at 08:15 AM.
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Old 12-23-2016, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by flinder View Post
Era, Your first picture in this thread illustrates how clean the under headlight areas become without the airboxes...outstanding.
Thanks - I will feel a lot better when we start it and there is no CEL to chase We fit the liners several times to check for clearance.

Questions:
1. Is it possible to remove the airboxes without removing the bumper fascia? The bumper fit on my 2007 V8V is exceptional. I do not want to disturb it if it can be avoided.

We did not pull the bumper cover and I agree panel fitment from Aston is outstanding. That said, the way it is assembled I would not be scrared to pull the cover. Even the liners align and re-align perfectly. It is a beautifully built vehicle.

2. Can the air induction tubing, from center of grille to air box input, be similarly removed and snaked out without pulling the fascia?

The tubing and box is manufactured in halves. The halves clip together and can be separated at the seam. We could not remove the tubes without doing this. Same with the box. Pulling the cover will not help here the front framework is the restraint.


3. I just relooked at your air filter stabilizer drawing and assembly pictures in No airboxes=More power thread. Will you sell fabricated sheet aluminum stabilizer parts?

I was hoping Rich would jump on that

I am no racer, but I think I need Carroll Smiths books...Maybe Santa?

"Tune to Win" and "Prepare to Win" are a good place to start. I still read them. A lot has changed over the years - then again a lot has not

chr
 
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Old 12-23-2016, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by era2076 View Post

3. I just relooked at your air filter stabilizer drawing and assembly pictures in No airboxes=More power thread. Will you sell fabricated sheet aluminum stabilizer parts?

I was hoping Rich would jump on that
I'm starting up a "Garage Sale" section on my website soon. Trying to think of the best way to host and organize it, but basically it'll be a place to sell returned "open box" items, used parts, and possibly parts from people that come up with products like this. Making it work seamlessly is a lot more difficult than seem with lots of things to sort out before I launch it. I'll put something in my Redpants thread so I don't hijack yours!
 
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:06 AM
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Oh, kinda random but did you by chance weigh the original coilovers and KW ones? Wondering if there's a weight difference.
 
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:15 PM
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I did not weigh the KW. I will get you the weight of the OEM's.

I have spent more time than I care to admit weighing parts for my FIA Cobra and a considerable amount stripping weight out of the Mustang. The work you have done on weight reduction replicates a lot of what I have learned. Since this car really is for street I just follow your recommendations and look for low hanging fruit.

I am a big believer in reducing un-sprung weight since weight transferred to the outside tire is thru these components and is what ultimately over loads that tire. None of it matters really for the street, but put it on the track and drive to the limit and it is quite obvious.

The KW is built out of Stainless - I was a bit disappointed in this. I put Penskes on the FIA - they are aluminum and quite light. Half of the weight of the coilover is considered sprung - the other half un-sprung. That said, the KW should be very robust for street / occasional track.

The tire wheel combination is surprisingly heavy. The 10 spoke/PSS combination is within .5 lbs of the 7 spoke/Bridgestone combination. A set of factory magnesium 18"'s with the Michelin's would be fun on the track.

I ordered some magnesium wheels for my FIA. When all said and done I will have reduced un-spuing by 20lbs per corner (102 to 82lbs), 10lbs out of the linkage - 10 out of the wheels. It will have taken two and a half years of research, procurement, and fabrication to get there. The wheels are due in January and there is a chance they will not fit the brake package.

I seriously appreciate your work on weight reduction. I'll get you the OEM's.

chr
 
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Redpants View Post
Oh, kinda random but did you by chance weigh the original coilovers and KW ones? Wondering if there's a weight difference.
Nitrons are considerably lighter than the factory pieces. But I did not weigh them... Sorry
 
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Old 12-25-2016, 07:06 AM
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Thanks and reflection

Era and Redpants, Thanks for your knowledge re removing air boxes and associated ducting. Era, Stuart at Velocity AP has a fix for your CEL instrument panel warning.

Agree with your positive comment on AM quality, Era. Materials are first class, well engineered and assembled. Plusses gained by the Vantage Program from following the DB9 with its aluminum Lotus assembly technology plus parts bin assistance and family relations from Ford corporate components, Jag, Volvo, etc., outweigh negatives of being 200+# too fat and electronic niggles that go on and on.

Weight crusaders like Redpants will resolve our fat issue...the tie in with Mercedes, plus the 10 years of electronics industry maturation and a complete vehicle development program, should fix electrical gremlins before they get to production.

Redpants, Garage Sale idea sounds like a winner. Maybe a franchised dealer or 2 would like to participate?

Merry Christmas to all, flinder.
 

Last edited by flinder; 12-25-2016 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 12-30-2016, 04:37 PM
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OEM Coilover Weight

2006 OEM Front Coilover = 8.98 lbs
2006 OEM Rear Coilover = 10.99

Total - 39.94

I found the packing slip for KW - ship = 53 lb.

The box weighs 5lb so somewhere around 48 for all four.

Heavy, but control of the spring should be nice

chr
 
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:30 PM
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I purchased a splitter from RSC. We put it on a CMM and modeled it. I am thinking of having the skids machined out of UHMW. I am unsure of how the bumper cover works with all of this. Does the engine cover provide enough stiffness for the cover to survive? I am concerned about a vertical bending moment. Any of you have experience you can share on living with a splitter.

It may be we can only run on the track. We chose UHMW for its abrasion resistance and surprisingly lighter weight than alum.



 
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:50 PM
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Not quite sure what you are trying to do. Is this a piece that goes on the bottom of the splitter to protect it, or does it go on the bottom of the bumper cover with the small factory lip in place?
 
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Old 01-03-2017, 09:30 PM
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bottom of splitter to act as skid.

x-chr
 
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