What wheels are these
I just looked into this and am very intrigued, but brings up a question. Noob question obviously.
It recommends using that applicator. I have the 5 spoke sport pack wheels and it you know the wheels, my pinky is about the only thing that will fit between the dual spokes. How would it be applied into those very tight areas, which are actually where it would serve the most good? And I'm guessing removing the wheel is the best way to do the application?
These wheels are extremely tough to clean because of that tight gap. Enough so I've thought about going to the 10 spoke or the DBS wheels to lesson the headaches.
It recommends using that applicator. I have the 5 spoke sport pack wheels and it you know the wheels, my pinky is about the only thing that will fit between the dual spokes. How would it be applied into those very tight areas, which are actually where it would serve the most good? And I'm guessing removing the wheel is the best way to do the application?
These wheels are extremely tough to clean because of that tight gap. Enough so I've thought about going to the 10 spoke or the DBS wheels to lesson the headaches.
What I would suggest: Yes, you need to remove the wheels in order to apply the coating properly. You will need to clean every surface, additional suggestion is to look up the AMMONYC youtube video for "Best Way to Restore Wheels and Winter Prep". This will show you interesting ways to help clean used wheels. Once clean perfectly and even possibly polished or cleaned up, then the application should be done.
Application: I personally in your case would apply the coating to the whole barrel and the backside of the wheel first. Then apply second coat after you do the face of the wheel. Save the inside of the spokes last. You could soak a small piece of MF towel and run it through the gap, then reverse that for the taking off phase. All depends on that gap. Also, a q-tip or small foam applicator would do that also. Search for some and you'll find something to work.
Then cleaning will be a breeze.
So it's pretty much like applying a wax where it will dry and you polish off the excess? And you really don't need the applicator, anything that will get it into the nooks and crannies is just fine to use as applicator?
I've been to every auto supply shop and couldn't find a single brush or foam stick or anything that will fit down the gap. I ended up just buying one of those MF gloves and i use my pinky [although I guess I could just wrap an MF around a stick and get about the same]. But the glove is pretty handy at cleaning the inner barrel. But it still takes twice as long to clean the wheel as it does the rest of the car, inside and out.
I've been to every auto supply shop and couldn't find a single brush or foam stick or anything that will fit down the gap. I ended up just buying one of those MF gloves and i use my pinky [although I guess I could just wrap an MF around a stick and get about the same]. But the glove is pretty handy at cleaning the inner barrel. But it still takes twice as long to clean the wheel as it does the rest of the car, inside and out.
So it's pretty much like applying a wax where it will dry and you polish off the excess? And you really don't need the applicator, anything that will get it into the nooks and crannies is just fine to use as applicator?
I've been to every auto supply shop and couldn't find a single brush or foam stick or anything that will fit down the gap. I ended up just buying one of those MF gloves and i use my pinky [although I guess I could just wrap an MF around a stick and get about the same]. But the glove is pretty handy at cleaning the inner barrel. But it still takes twice as long to clean the wheel as it does the rest of the car, inside and out.
I've been to every auto supply shop and couldn't find a single brush or foam stick or anything that will fit down the gap. I ended up just buying one of those MF gloves and i use my pinky [although I guess I could just wrap an MF around a stick and get about the same]. But the glove is pretty handy at cleaning the inner barrel. But it still takes twice as long to clean the wheel as it does the rest of the car, inside and out.
I would buy 4 applicators that are shown on the detailed image website. One to do 2 pairs of wheels and one for second coat. Then the other 2 wheels. Use a Q tip, or a foam Q tip for the inside of spokes.
Application: You dap the top of the bottle on a applicator ( I cut up a foam wax applicator pad) then start wiping in straight strokes. The foam will squeak a bit, then add more drops. You want to make sure the fluid application is smooth and use long strokes, high spots can show up, but especially on wheels you likely wont have an issue. You let, depending on humidity and temps, 3-5 mins go by, then wipe with a microfiber towel, then flip the towel to a clean portion, and do the final wipe polish. The 3-5 min time if for the product to flash, and then allows the particles to adhere to the clear coat. On that website, there are many blogs, by professionals showing the process for that product. Its under the Ask a Pro section.
But, you have my info, thats really all you need. SPEEDRACER800 did my wheels for me, and my father did my other set. Both had never applied the product before, and both did a perfect job with no missed spots. I demand a wheel gets this, and hopefully before they even get put on the road. Its a wonderful product. I have tried several, but like this companies the best for wheels.
I will be taking out my wheel well liners when I do my 75hr paint correction on the car next year, and applying the 22ple plastic and trim restorer coating on those. I want them returned to pure black, then easy to keep clean and dark.
Please ask if you would like anymore answers. You do not need to run all over the place to get things. Just order them in, and work the job. MF towels for paint, I get from AMMONYC, and my scrub, washing, cleaning MF towels I get from Costco, the yellow bundle packs. When you get done coating and wiping with the MF towels, you MUST throw them away. They will have dried silica glass particles in them that you A. dont want in your washer and B. dont want to scratch your paint. Also, most people dont know, but your MF towels should be washed in hot water with MF detergent, NOT washing detergent. The washing detergent doesn't fully release the gunk in the MF towel, plus wont fully come out of it. Also, dont dry your MF towel on hot. it melts the grabbing tips of the fibers and ruins them. Always on low, then air dry. Just some helpful hints.
Andrew
Thanks for all the helpful tips.
I already went overboard on a Griots order back when I had to buy a bottle of the same leather stuff they used on the inside so I've got more than I thought I'd even need of everything, except all these other things I never knew existed. Wheel coatings, ceramic paint coatings, 75hr paint correction? Here goes google again.
Honestly the reason I would want this for the wheels is so the brake dust doesn't bite into them and I can leave them dirty longer without worry of damage. If I wash it once every 2 weeks that's about my limit of available time or desire to clean a car, and even though it is beautiful clean, I also like it when it's got 2 weeks [or a month right now] of dirt on it. Something about a car you'd only expect to see spotless looking like the DD it is I like. Which is one of the reasons a light color was one of my requirements, doesn't show the dirt as bad! So if the product will protect the wheels from the brake dust sitting on there longer than most would leave it, AND make it easy to get off when I do wash it, I'm all in.
I already went overboard on a Griots order back when I had to buy a bottle of the same leather stuff they used on the inside so I've got more than I thought I'd even need of everything, except all these other things I never knew existed. Wheel coatings, ceramic paint coatings, 75hr paint correction? Here goes google again.
Honestly the reason I would want this for the wheels is so the brake dust doesn't bite into them and I can leave them dirty longer without worry of damage. If I wash it once every 2 weeks that's about my limit of available time or desire to clean a car, and even though it is beautiful clean, I also like it when it's got 2 weeks [or a month right now] of dirt on it. Something about a car you'd only expect to see spotless looking like the DD it is I like. Which is one of the reasons a light color was one of my requirements, doesn't show the dirt as bad! So if the product will protect the wheels from the brake dust sitting on there longer than most would leave it, AND make it easy to get off when I do wash it, I'm all in.
HabitualOffender, I feel your pain with the Sport Pack wheels, way too long to clean them. Little finger doesn't even fit into the tight places. I'm hoping that switching to Porterfield R4-S brake pads helps cut down the dust. Guess putting on the 22ple will happen this spring. I really don't want different wheels, but if these don't get easier to clean...
Regards,
Regards,
I always thought those coatings were voodoo bull$hit until I tried it. Someday I'll upload the video I made of blow drying my DBS after these coatings were applied.. It's unbelievable stuff. I apply to all my wheels now at the minimum.. The brake dust just blows right off.







