it overflexes the pressure plate and reduces spring pressure leading to fatique and additional clutch slip , which accelerates wear on the clutch plates

i race and street the Vantage and my full time race car (sometimes street now) i can tell you by taking my advice and not depressing the clutch to the floor and being smart about how you release the clutch and how you use it, you can make the clutch last as long as the engine (almost) throwout bearing is always spinning, but has a side load when clutch depressed. pilot bearing wears when in gear but clutch depressed when stopped. (bad). every flexion wears the pressure plate and the more its depressed, the wear is highly accelerated. if you rarely depress the clutch all the way, maybe only when fitting in 1st gear, you reduce the fatigue considerably. this is basic engineering 101 here. even to put the clutch in 1st gear, you dont need fulll depression, as you need to hit the micro switch. the main thing is that full depression is when you start the car and held for a few seconds until the car starts . if that is a component of wear, why not remove it? that's my problem here and why ive developed a way to hit the switch with my left foot way up high, but that is 'rigged" I want to disable it , but dont know if the switch is doing anything else in the ecu.

 

For the record I only depress the clutch as far as the disengagement point - because it's faster, not because I'm trying to save spring fatigue. The only time I push it to the floor is on start up. But bottom line is when the clutch starts to slip it'll go to the shop and get a new one. I am not concerned if my actions cost me 10,000 or 50,000 miles of wear. I'll get my 50,000 out of the clutch [with any luck] and be happy I did.

Having fun on the street means more disc wear that tracking a car. On track you're trying your best not to get wheel spin to maximize lost time. On the street I intend to have fun which to me means sliding it around corners, laying rubber off a red light, and generally driving like an idiot. Although sometimes I actually act my age

 

actually not.. i have more race days than most anyone you will ever know.. no clutch wear... again, pulled the clutch in 2008 for the new engine on the race car (similar power as our AMs when fixed up) and you could still read the writing on the clutch discs! (no wear) put in a new pressure plate since then with higher clamping force for the new more torque engine, and no problems since. 100 race days later. still no wear. (had to check when i had a ToB issue and replaced it... not worn, but a cir-clip came loose and shifted its orientation causing vibration at high RPM.

 

I think I just said that, on the track is less wear than having "fun" on the street. Unless you're having "fun" on the track as a safe zone. If I hard launch off a red light I'm keeping the revs at 4000 and slipping the clutch so all the power transfers. Otherwise I'm just going to roast the tires, and there's no way it's as fast a launch mating the clutch at 1500 and then flooring it, I should have you by a car length on launch alone. Not that I street race all that much, but I rarely turn down a red light challenge if it's all clear ahead, even if I know I have no chance, It's just an excuse for me to bolt myself to the seat

I don't think about conserving much of anything when I drive so the whole concept is a little foreign to me. I either feel like putting around like an old lady or that left shoulder devil takes control of my lead foot.