Xpel
The link to the instructions is as follows, there is more detail that may help others as well...
http://www.tintzoom.com/v/vspfiles/d...ructions_1.pdf
I will be ordering the front bumper kit which is a bit more difficult (due to size I imagine) I will post an update on that as well.
The pre cut kits are a bit pricey but since they are pre cut to fit, and the rear upper fender I did was exactly like the factory size, I feel worth the money especially to protect your paint.
They do sell rolls in different size widths and custom lengths as well, I bought a 12 inch by 13 foot roll to do the rocker panels I just had painted over winter. That roll was about $140. The front bumper cover piece is $250. Just to give you some idea of the cost.
Cheers
http://www.tintzoom.com/v/vspfiles/d...ructions_1.pdf
I will be ordering the front bumper kit which is a bit more difficult (due to size I imagine) I will post an update on that as well.
The pre cut kits are a bit pricey but since they are pre cut to fit, and the rear upper fender I did was exactly like the factory size, I feel worth the money especially to protect your paint.
They do sell rolls in different size widths and custom lengths as well, I bought a 12 inch by 13 foot roll to do the rocker panels I just had painted over winter. That roll was about $140. The front bumper cover piece is $250. Just to give you some idea of the cost.
Cheers
Here is the catch----- Pre Cut pieces, especially the bumpers neeeeeeed stretching ALOT. Special mixture gel of solution needs to be applied to work the sections. Then Straight alcohol in certain spots to immediately tie it down. You cannot just do one side and stretch across, its is very very tricky. The pre cuts are harder than cutting yourself, but, there is alot of risk on that too but different. I messed up 2x bumper pieces while training, they did go on, but there were squeegee stretch marks, off kilter strips on a section, (M3 bumper), and a Toyota Celica bumper. Pretty hard bumpers to do.
Anyway, just forwarding you, they are NOT like any other part on the car. They are by far the most difficult. Aston bumper might be pretty simple, just not done one.
To clarify something mentioned above, in the instructions I printed, there was no mention of mixing alcohol WITH the soap and water slip solution, it was only baby shampoo and water. There is a separate alcohol and water mix solution you can use but they caution not to let it contact any plastic like the headlights.
Alcohol water mixture for sticking it immediately and activating the glue and/or neutralizing the baby soap mixture.
Sorry, was half asleep when I wrote it, and haven't done any PPF in 6 weeks. So rusty a bit.
SheriffDep,
Thanks for your write-ups! They are very helpful. I am planning on having a PPF (Xpel) applied to my 09 Vantage this summer. The paint is in excellent condition but I will do a paint correction to it before having a local shop apply the Xpel. In doing the paint correction process should I apply any glaze before having the PPF done? It is my understanding that any type of wax or other sealants should not be applied before the PPF is put on. Is that right?
John
Thanks for your write-ups! They are very helpful. I am planning on having a PPF (Xpel) applied to my 09 Vantage this summer. The paint is in excellent condition but I will do a paint correction to it before having a local shop apply the Xpel. In doing the paint correction process should I apply any glaze before having the PPF done? It is my understanding that any type of wax or other sealants should not be applied before the PPF is put on. Is that right?
John
SheriffDep,
Thanks for your write-ups! They are very helpful. I am planning on having a PPF (Xpel) applied to my 09 Vantage this summer. The paint is in excellent condition but I will do a paint correction to it before having a local shop apply the Xpel. In doing the paint correction process should I apply any glaze before having the PPF done? It is my understanding that any type of wax or other sealants should not be applied before the PPF is put on. Is that right?
John
Thanks for your write-ups! They are very helpful. I am planning on having a PPF (Xpel) applied to my 09 Vantage this summer. The paint is in excellent condition but I will do a paint correction to it before having a local shop apply the Xpel. In doing the paint correction process should I apply any glaze before having the PPF done? It is my understanding that any type of wax or other sealants should not be applied before the PPF is put on. Is that right?
John
SheriffDep,
Thanks for your write-ups! They are very helpful. I am planning on having a PPF (Xpel) applied to my 09 Vantage this summer. The paint is in excellent condition but I will do a paint correction to it before having a local shop apply the Xpel. In doing the paint correction process should I apply any glaze before having the PPF done? It is my understanding that any type of wax or other sealants should not be applied before the PPF is put on. Is that right?
John
Thanks for your write-ups! They are very helpful. I am planning on having a PPF (Xpel) applied to my 09 Vantage this summer. The paint is in excellent condition but I will do a paint correction to it before having a local shop apply the Xpel. In doing the paint correction process should I apply any glaze before having the PPF done? It is my understanding that any type of wax or other sealants should not be applied before the PPF is put on. Is that right?
John
Glazes----- fillers and gloss enhancers to mask swirls and imperfections. Releases over a short time during washes. Used in the old days right before car shows, and parades to mask swirls. Is masking, not fixing. Almost no one makes them anymore. The industry paint correctors dont want to mask anything, we want to perfect them so they are not needed.
It is likely though that a glaze could be used, then after a very light wipedown, the PPF is installed and it will lock the fillers in so to speak. But a test would need to be done. I wouldn't bother. The PPF will mask some light imperfections all on its own.
Hope that helps
Your old 3M most likely was not thier PRO series PPF. PRO has better clarity than Xpel and has only been out a few years. Alot of installers and dealers used the older less expensive types to maximize thier profits due to several types being available and customers not knowing the differences. The older were thinner and not the self healing types out today. Just FYI
The old 3M was actually a recent install, but I guess when the price I got the paint protection and the 3M full front clip was considerably lower than they originally wanted (they match others pricing), I got what I paid for. That said I traded the car for another which was to have the same treatment, and they changed their methods of install - mine was the first and they totally botched the install, as well as the paint protection. To make up for the botchery, they went out of their way to do everything perfect, including the upgrade.
The old 3M was actually a recent install, but I guess when the price I got the paint protection and the 3M full front clip was considerably lower than they originally wanted (they match others pricing), I got what I paid for. That said I traded the car for another which was to have the same treatment, and they changed their methods of install - mine was the first and they totally botched the install, as well as the paint protection. To make up for the botchery, they went out of their way to do everything perfect, including the upgrade.
Manufacturers do indeed coat plastic headlights with a UV clear coat. Polycarbonate would turn yellow and brittle if left untreated when exposed to the sun. The coating is meant to help resist degradation from UV. This is evident when the clear starts to peel.
These kits that restore headlights all have instructions on sanding through the clear coat before applying the restoration product. Having gone through the process, I can confirm that there is a clear at least on the cars that I've restored.
I went through the same issue as @Hedged on my Lotus. Positioning the film pulled the clear, which was not applied well, off the plastic. I ended up replacing the lenses instead of refinishing because I wanted them to be perfect but it is possible to restore them back to great condition with a new layer of clear coat.
These kits that restore headlights all have instructions on sanding through the clear coat before applying the restoration product. Having gone through the process, I can confirm that there is a clear at least on the cars that I've restored.
I went through the same issue as @Hedged on my Lotus. Positioning the film pulled the clear, which was not applied well, off the plastic. I ended up replacing the lenses instead of refinishing because I wanted them to be perfect but it is possible to restore them back to great condition with a new layer of clear coat.
I prepped headlights the way Xpel said, used the solution, followed directions... Put on one headlight last night and came back tonight to pull it off... it just wasn't right enough for me... Sure enough, a small amount of a coating came off the headlight.
While it was in a rather inconspicuous spot and my Vantage is a 2009, nonetheless still disappointed... especially in myself. Should have listed to you guys who had the "proof"
Lesson learned for me!
Last edited by MRCW; Apr 17, 2018 at 05:28 PM.
Hi MRCW...damn...I have an 09 too and bought xpel and was ready to put on my headlights. I read your post....
Could you post a pic? I am holding off now. I am grateful you posted!
Still sorry to hear...
Could you post a pic? I am holding off now. I am grateful you posted!
Still sorry to hear...
I'll try to see if i can get a pic to come out... first a little curb rash Saturday night, then this...waiting for the third problem... it's just a car. Love driving it!
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