First off, I'm not doing the work I'm just taking the pictures
We are talking about spacing the caliper. The V12V uses a different caliper bracket - it's a fairly simple flat bracket but the spacing required isn't quite the same. Chris was shimming out out with washers to figure out the optimum position and then we will probably have something lasered out of stainless in the correct thickness. It will also possibly require changing out the chunky socket cap head bolts for a lower profile head, but that's a pretty easy fix. Not sure, Chris may have determined that's not necessary since I had my head under the car.

No, again like the fronts the whole brake swap is for cost, ease of access to spares reasons. You can pick all sorts of pad choices for the OEM V8V sizes, and end up with a ring + pad replacement cost of $2000-2500. Compared to $25,000. For sure it's theoretically a bit of a step backwards but this is not an open chequebook situation so we have to make smart decisions that further the goal - building a fun & unique track car that can be run reasonably cost effectively. Being 0.5 seconds per lap faster with CCMs if it means $25K brake services isn't worth it in a track day environment. Racing maybe.

I don't *believe* we'll need to change anything else. Relatively speaking the front/rear balance shouldn't be significantly changed from the OEM setup. We will be doing a shakedown run at Area 27 to make sure everything is working and the car is set up safely, before the OP comes to drive & collect it.

x-chr

Not the wheel just the caliper to the knuckle/hub assembly. So Cliff, what this means is, barring some last 1% that we're not able to see, we should be able to set you up with this same Brembo 380mm + 6Pot Front setup and the 2 piece rear rotors, and it should all clear the 18" Prodrive wheels we set you up with. And since you are working with OEM V8 Vantage bracket etc., I don't think any modification should be required, it should just be a bolt on fit.

Happy to set you up with some if you want to go that route.

 

Just excellent - is there any reason you chose the GT instead of the GT-S. Brembo claims the GT-S is a direct replacement for the GT caliper . Their marketing implies better heat control for track work.

x-chr

 

Also, is this the car that is getting the 4 point?

chr

 

We looked at the GT vs the GT-R but I didn't think the price difference was worth it, looks like the GT-S is a lot more reasonable though. I hadn't seen anything about the GT-S until you mentioned it. I wonder if it would be possible to simply swap the pistons when doing a caliper rebuild at some point? Looks like the pistons are the main difference from what I've read?

Yep, 4 point, seats, and harnesses for safety mods!

 

The marketing on the GT GT-S calipers I find to be rather confusing. They are both mono-block. The main difference I see is the the GT-S caliper body is hard anodized and the piston seal configuration seems to be different. They say they use racing style radiators on the pistons. What does that even mean? Do they provide additional cooling or not - LOL! The price difference between the two seem minimal so is it really just finish? The GT-R is over the top $ wise for me also - mine is still a street driven car.

Can't wait to see what they come up with for your 4 point .

chr

 

This is the best I've been able to find to differentiate the two. The marketing calls it the M6 M4. The Anodized body and machined logo lead one to assume this is the GT-S.

 

Harness Bar is finished prototyping, and we're making a jig to be able to replicate it. Designed to be installed with M10 Rivet Nuts, should give a relatively clean & easy install. The Rear bars also have a sleeve joint and bolt-hole, again for ease of installation. That could be welded if desired but this should make for a pretty clean install that can be done with (relatively) basic hand tools and without destroying the stock interior.

 

chr

 

Will start a thread about this product shortly, once we have done a costing analysis and then we will start some production for those who are interested.

 

Not sure how I missed this thread but I am subscribed and excited to see what you do! I have been planning a very similar GT4 Street build and once I seal the deal on a V8V it's going to happen..

 

So, we've got a solution figured out that is pretty unintrusive, easy to install without any crazy tools. You'd need basic hand tools to remove the interior stuff like the seat, and a Rivet Nut tool large enough to handle an M10 Rivet nut. Will post some more pics with the interior back in shortly but wanted to show you how this all looks with it out.

It is fully jigged & patterned so we will be taking orders. Probably be a month or so before we start production:
http://www.velocityap.com/ProductDet...-VANTAGE4POINT

 

Stuart is the interior going back into the car? If so, do you have a picture of the bar installed with the interior?

Also - the rear panel the stays are bolted to is structural?

x-chr

 

What we did in this case is actually to replace that panel covering with Alcantara. Just looks cooler. But if you were to use the stock panel, and drill a small hole in it for the bar, and then make a knife cut running up to the top of the panel you would be able to install the stock panel with just one cut showing, and it would be pretty well obscured by the bars anyway.

Yes, the panel is probably considered structural. It's pretty well tied in to the rear vertical structure of the car. Of course, you could use a different mounting method but with 4 x M10 Rivet nuts per plate I think it's pretty secure.

 

With the seats out, can the bar go in fully assembled or must you place the hoop and then slide the stays into place?

x-chr

 

In a coupe, it won't go in fully assembled. The stays are sleeved with a bolt. The main hoop will go in, and once it is essentially in place you can bolt the rear stays together, then mark your holes for drilling and rivet nut insertion and then final install.