purchased a quickjack 5000 with a rating of 2273 kg (tare wt aston is 1630kg) and lifted the vehicle up for the first time today. This in preparation for future work on it like oil changes etc. I enclose pics FYI. I purchased lift point blocks from Matt at HSM precision which fit perfectly in the lift point holes (thanks Matt). The custom blocks from HSM have grommets which allow them to remain attached to the vehicle when you lower it; thus no need to realign. The quickjack gives me good height and now that I have figured out the layout and geography of the underside in relation to the jack, things should go more smoothly
The jack with the custom blocks and support rubber blocks just barely fit on the underside, so I cut out 4 pieces of 3/8 plywoo x2 to give me a bit more height when maneuvering the jacks under the car.

custom rear lifting block (hole is circular) and there were grommets in the rear holes but not the front


custom front lifting block (hole is oblong)

 

I have been using my QuickJack for 3 yrs now and love it, makes working on these cars so much better

 

Me too! Also using the lift pads from Matt.

 

 

Yes there is one for each side of the car, it also has an hydraulic pump and a up/down remote controller... There are different size 3500lb, 5000lb... I got the 3500lbXL and it was just about $2000 Canadian, great investment to do any work on the car. Each Ram or side weigh about 75lb and it takes about 5min or so to set them up and start lifting the car.

 

Thanks for the images of the jack pads. Appreciate the positive feedback.
I like the Quickjack - I'm really debating between that, or a Maxjax. Either way, I'm getting to be too old to crawl around on the floor under a car....

Matt

 

Well then Matt the QuickJack is not for you as it only goes up about 21 inches or so

 

True. 21 inches still is better than jack stands though. I changed the clutch 2 years ago, and getting at some of the bolts was a challenge without enough leverage.
Maxjax is attractive due to the height, but looks to take up more storage space, and take longer to set up. With either choice, I'd be way further ahead than I am now

 

Regarding the holes at each of the jacking points: Are all 4 of them supposed to have the sealing plugs in them when the jacking points are not being used?

 

Hi Yorick,

I think they should probably be there. There appears to be foam inside the frame structure, and I can see it absorbing water.

Matt

 

Do authorized dealers use those plug areas in lifting cars? I was at a authorized dealer service area here in LA and they were picking up V8Vs with standard round rubber jack pads near those rubber plug areas but they left didn't unplug them or use machined pads with special fitted posts or anything.


I took these in their service area:

 

They should be removed and replaced after jacking, but lots of dealers don't bother and they end up squashed and then fall out, or after being removed aren't replaced. You can get some (or similar) at your local hardware store if it matters to you. Even a piece of duct tape will work (and doesn't need to be removed when jacking).

 

 

 

I use a two 2x4 3 inches long and dipped in liquid rubber and works great and cost me $6.