Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

"Hood Open" error light

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Old Dec 29, 2019 | 08:39 PM
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"Hood Open" error light

I keep getting the "Hood Open" error light even though the hood closes fine (tried 10 times in every different way) and the cable works fine too. Should I adjust the striker as shown in old posts below or do I need a new sensor? I did adjust the rubber stops. I guess the sensor is right there at the latch. Can someone give me part number to purchase? It's a 2008 V8V that I hardly drive...maybe 500 miles a year. Thanks!

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...t-vantage.html
 
Old Dec 30, 2019 | 07:36 AM
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Get that adjusted by an Aston shop! A few years back a local 2008 V8 hood flew open on a test drive - $8K damage.
 
Old Dec 30, 2019 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hsm precision
I think this is the part number you need (looks like there is a pre 2010 and post 2010 part.
https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/par...atch.html#spec

I looked at my car, and it appears to just clip to the back of the latch mechanism, so there may not be much of an adjustment possible (if hood is latched, switch should be closed).

These are the instructions to remove the assembly - you should be able to ohm out the switch to verify that that really is the problem.
Thank you, HSM Precision. I will take a look some time. I can see the harness connection without removing anything. I think the switch/senasor is messed up...probably doesn't like the hood to be dropped too hard over the years.
 
Old Dec 31, 2019 | 09:48 AM
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Talking

Having a hood fly open while driving would be bad... and I don't doubt the story above... Windshield alone is about $4k installed if its a heated one... (been there done that... just due to a crack, not hood related... )

However...

I think the V8V has more sensors than most cars... . I know my washer fluid bottle has a leak somewhere about half way down... and the car would tell me about low washer fluid while driving down the highway daily... Pretty much useless info at 80mph. That sensor failed and now I just know there is only half washer fluid level... but no message. Failed part and sensor now.

I also had the hood latch warning 2yrs ago.. and about 1yr ago.... I re-latched it both times... but there was nothing actually wrong with the hood closure... It had been closed for months.

IMO the sensors failing is going to be a fun adventure going forward. Interested to see what I see next. 82k miles on a 2006 V8V.

Pretty sure we have all driven a dozen cars prior that didn't have a 'hood latch failure' sensor.... right? Not sure how worried I am when a 15yr old British car tells me something... that I am not seeing or feeling first!
 
Old Jan 27, 2020 | 02:26 PM
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Just to follow up, I replaced the hood switch (hood alarm switch) and the error light is gone. It appears to be a fairly common problem. For the record, Jaguar uses the same part number C2D27159 or Aston CG43-37-11336. The Engineering Part number is FoMoCo 2W93-19A434-BA, obviously made by Ford...ughh. I did not remove the radiator fans as some have suggested. I just removed the main engine bay cover (10-12 Torx screws??) and the front grille (two 7 mm small bolt head and 6 Torx horizontal T-20 screws??...better with magnetic tip screw driver). Then I accessed the switch/lock assembly from the left side and removed the harness connection and switch (pull down). It takes a bit of wiggling to push the new switch back up in position with right hand. Position carefully so it will snap into place...patience!. If you are a hands on guy, it will take 30-40 minutes in all. If you have big hands and can't access the switch from bottom, you would need to remove the entire top cross member, radiator fans etc to access the lock assembly etc..I imagine the dealer tech will do that but I took short cut approach. Thanks everyone!!
 
Old Jun 21, 2024 | 11:15 PM
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In case anyone else needs to do this, I followed the workshop manual steps and found it relatively straightforward. I tried to take the switch out with just the grille/slam panel removed but it's held in with 2 plastic tabs so pretty hard to pull out. Loosening the crossmember took maybe 15 minutes (8 bolts on the botton and 2 on top) and gave much better access, the radiator/fans don't need to be removed to get enough room.
 
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