My 2015 Vantage 4.7L Air Oil Separator drain hose, officially part number 6G33-6B873-AA and called the Drain Hose - Cyclone to Front Cover, has a slow leak that allows oil to accumulate and drip from the timing chain cover bottom bolts. I want to replace/repair the joint between the engine and the hose, but I don’t know how the two are connected. The part refers to this being a quick connect, but I don’t want to just pull the hose out if that’s not the right procedure.

Does anyone know how to safely remove the AOS drain line from the engine?

Thanks,

Jim

 

John Guest fitting, used for water, air and most quick connection plumbing. Press on either side of the center ring and draw the pipe outwards at the same time. Since its leaking I would order a new cartridge assembly to replace it before disconnecting it. O-ring seal inside is probably damaged.

 

J doubleU, do you have any advice on replacing the cartridge assembly? I have looked online and actually called John Guest UK for advice, they had none. Apparently it is a special product line that they do not support. I would like to know what I am to do before I take a small leak and remove something that makes a hole into my oil system if I cannot get things reassembled.

I have three parts in the kit, the black barb ring, a green o ring and a plastic rod. I would like some suggestions on how to extract the old parts and install the new.

For instance, is the rod a sealing plug or an installation alignment tool.

I presume that the old barb ring is removed somehow, then the old O ring and the a new O ring installed followed by the barb ring. Is it that simple or are there springs and things also behind the barb that need to be saved?

I got the part from Scuderia, Part number 6G33-9H490-AA

Many thanks

Philip

 

Sounds like you shouldn't have any problems, the pin is an alignment tool that can be used for a plug. I found that the best way was to break the old cartridge out while doing an oil change. Insert the main part and assemble onto the tool with fresh oil or grease for the o-ring. When fitting the tube make sure its smooth on the edge and little lube.

 

Many thanks.

I infer that when I pull out the leaking oil return tube after pushing in the release barb ring. I then break out that release ring. Inside will be the O ring and some other spring loaded part that will also come out. I then assemble the new barb release ring, the o ring and finally the spring loaded part on the installation plug. This then goes into the original hole and clicks into place. Pressing on the barb release ring allows the plastic alignment plug to be released. Insert the original oil return pipe making sure there is no burr on the end.
Job done.

Correct?

Regards

Philip

 

See, you figured it out

 

Just to finish out my part of this thread in case anyone else has the same issue and finds their way here through keywords and a search engine.

Something of a happy ending to the saga. Although I have the replacement parts, I did not need them. In hindsight what happened was the drain pipe got pulled sufficiently forwards, apparently because of a failure of the barbs to grip the pipe, that the seal between the O ring and the body and the pipe was not occurring. This dripped the oil. When I reset the pipe everything went together again and the seal was made.

However, there is a some free volume between the O ring seal and the front of the connector and this was now full of oil. That drained over the next 24 hours as two drips plus cleanup on a rag wiped a few times. I thought it was a slow ongoing leak that was going to be long term issue. Once that oil in front of the O ring was out there was no more.

I hope this helps someone else in the future.

The End (I hope)

Philip

 

An update to my update. After a 900 mile road trip I noticed a small puddle of oil on the floor. Sure enough the John Guest fitting was weeping. As it happens, the car was due for its annual engine oil change. I had kept the John Guest parts I did not install last time.

After draining the oil, I popped the black push part out and hooked out the green o ring. Reassembly was trivial and the plastic pipe pushed in more securely than before. You would swear the o ring was too large to fit, but it does. I finished the oil change in the usual way.

After a test drive, no oil drops at the fitting. So far so good.


Philip

 

dodged a bullet...good for you!

 

That line plugs into the bottom of the AOS which then plugs into the engine block. I would fix the leak and not remove the line. The leak normally comes from the oring leaking where the AOS plugs into the engine block and is an easy fix. Remove AOS, install new oring and reinstall. I have some of the upgraded orings if you want me to mail you one.