I'm about ready to do this. Many recommend simply using a 14 or 17mm socket and a hammer () to separate the inner part of the switch from the chrome barrel. Once separated, removal is reportedly straight forward. Needless to say, the process sounds pretty harsh, especially for someone as particular as myself...collateral damage is not acceptable!

For those of you who have done this, any last words of advise or regret? Just time to put on the big boy pants and do it?

Thanks!

 

You don't need a hammer, any circular object that fits inside of the chrome and hard press, or smack from the heel of your hand should work. After the first one you will be a pro at removal.

 

As others have mentioned, once you get past the whole "if this messes up my insanely expensive leather I'll be soooo pissed" thing, the removal process is really not that bad. Some notes:

1. I used a 14mm socket covered with a few layers of electrical tape to protect the face of the old switch and a short 3/8" extension. I also put a some painter's tape on the switch for the same reason.
2. I did not use a shock impact (e.g., from a hammer), but it probably would have been fine. I held the headrest on the opposite side of the switch and pushed against the face of the switch with the covered socket. The passenger side released with little effort. The driver's side took a bit more force, but nothing extreme.
3. There's a pocket in the foam behind the switch, so when you push the switch into the headrest, it goes into the pocket. It does not create a new hole, damage the seat, etc.
4. The old switch came out in a few pieces since it was essentially dissembled as the button was pushed through the chrome barrel. Long needle nose pliers are helpful for this.
5. Every picture I've seen of these switches (plastic and glass) have two retaining springs attached to the barrel. I only found one for each switch. I found that a magnet was the easiest (and safest) way to extract the springs from the seat's foam pocket. Keep the sharp pick tools and screw drivers away from here.
6. The old switch faces were 100% fine, no damage. The chrome barrels were fine (although they may each may be missing a spring). One of the two black plastic tabs that hold the inner parts of the switch to the barrel appears to have broken off, but I was able to reassemble the old switch and it came together with a reassuring click.
7. Zero collateral damage to the seat.

 

Thanks pal, great walk through!

 

This gave me some comfort! Thanks.

Btw, I just pushed the switch in with my thumb. It doesn't take much force.

 

Is this the way to remove "all" push buttons around the car?
I am thinking about fuel trap, glove box, rear seats latches...
Thank you.

 

No. This is a shortcut method that works on the seats which would otherwise require removal of the seat back covers.

These switches are held in place by two spring clips which, when compressed by hand from the back, allows for removal of the switch through the front with the switch remaining completely intact.

The glove box surround is held in place with a few friction clips and can be removed in seconds by hand or with any plastic pry tool. I find it easier to do after first opening the glove box. After removing the surround, unplug the electrical connector, remove the old switch, insert the new switch, plug it back in and snap the panel back in place. This is easily done in a matter of a few minutes.

The switches on the entertainment/HVAC unit require removal of that unit. That process has already been documented here and while more complicated is not difficult. I've done it several times without damaging anything.

I have a manual DBS and didn't get a fuel door release switch with my set (from astonmartinbits), but I did look and it seems simple enough to remove that small panel for access to the spring clips. It may even be possible to reach behind without removing anything. I don't know. I also don't know whether a glass switch is even available but don't care since it's not visible.