P2405 DM-TL issues
P2405 DM-TL issues
Hoping for some guidance here. My 2007 V8 Vantage threw up a P2405, which I erased with a cheap scan tool, but it came back a couple drives later. Apparently to do with the DM-TL fuel tank integrity test, particularly the electrical circuit involved.
First I removed the passenger wheel well and ensured the 3 connectors were all tight. All good.
Then I checked the relay under the hood (stand alone) that seems involved per the wiring diagram (which I struggle with!) and the relay works and has power to it.
Now I've removed the driver's side wheel well and have the pump unit in my hand. Although the color codes on the wiring diagram make no sense at all to me, I get the lowest resistances using NY (brown with yellow stripe) as a ground and get 30 ohms to 2 pins and 109 ohm to the furthest (BG which I assume is black with yellow stripe?).
Hooking it to a 12V battery in that manner, one 30 ohm pin snaps the solenoid, the other does nothing (I assume it is the heater) and the last runs the motor. That last pin that runs the motor is the 109 ohm pin and while the motor does run I don't feel any air moving at all, and it seems lazy. (Which shouldn't be surprising with 0.11 amp!)
Can anybody tell me if I've troubleshot this properly and that I plain need a new DM-TL pump unit, or if I'm totally missing the electrical boat on this one. Electrical is not my strong suit, lol.
(Bizarre that the wiring diagrams don't have a legend to explain their color codes. Wires are coded NY, U, S and BG and that matches in some fashion to blue, grey, brown with a stripe and black with a stripe??)
Thanks in advance!
First I removed the passenger wheel well and ensured the 3 connectors were all tight. All good.
Then I checked the relay under the hood (stand alone) that seems involved per the wiring diagram (which I struggle with!) and the relay works and has power to it.
Now I've removed the driver's side wheel well and have the pump unit in my hand. Although the color codes on the wiring diagram make no sense at all to me, I get the lowest resistances using NY (brown with yellow stripe) as a ground and get 30 ohms to 2 pins and 109 ohm to the furthest (BG which I assume is black with yellow stripe?).
Hooking it to a 12V battery in that manner, one 30 ohm pin snaps the solenoid, the other does nothing (I assume it is the heater) and the last runs the motor. That last pin that runs the motor is the 109 ohm pin and while the motor does run I don't feel any air moving at all, and it seems lazy. (Which shouldn't be surprising with 0.11 amp!)
Can anybody tell me if I've troubleshot this properly and that I plain need a new DM-TL pump unit, or if I'm totally missing the electrical boat on this one. Electrical is not my strong suit, lol.
(Bizarre that the wiring diagrams don't have a legend to explain their color codes. Wires are coded NY, U, S and BG and that matches in some fashion to blue, grey, brown with a stripe and black with a stripe??)
Thanks in advance!
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