Hello all. I hate to make another thread on the same issue - but I was hoping someone may have an idea of what is going on with my car. I have a 2007 Vantage manual. A few weeks ago, I was involved in a fender bender that required me to have my bumper, headlights, and grill fixed. The car is fixed, but is now having trouble starting up. We changed the battery and checked all of the fuses. The dash says "check battery reconnect"

My mechanic narrowed the problem down the the fuel pump - indicating it is not getting any power. When he manually fed the fuel pump power, the car started up. I was told by another forum member that there is a inertia switch/comfort access module that trips when a car is in a collision.

I have attached a picture of my CEM module - where I was only able to locate two relays. Relay#1 (which I circled in blue) and relay #2 (which I circled in red). We tried changing both the relays in the central electronics module fusebox without any luck. We were able to find out that there is not proper power flowing through relay #2 (in red). When a pin is manually connected at this relay (as my second picture indicates), the car starts right up.
Again - when that relay was changed, it did not solve the problem. Im not sure what else to do at this point. Is there anything else that controls the fuel pump or FPDM? Or does anyone have an idea about an inertia/"comfort access" relay

Thanks in advance for any help

 

The car is telling you "Check battery disconnect "....I see all this diagnostic was done, but did anything think to check the battery disconnect switch?

On the earlier vehicles you had to manually turn the switch back on, if you have your owners manual it will show you how to turn it off in the boot and how to turn it on via the switch behind the passenger seat near floor in front of battery.

If you don't have a switch(later model), it's simply turned on by pressing the remote..Lock..Unlock..Lock..Unlock, usually only 1 time is required but I do it twice to avoid any hassle. Also when this switch is off, it will disable your fueling, it will also store a DTC for fuel cut-off...has anyone scanned the car for Dtc's?

 

The cluster displays "CHECK BATTERY OFF SWITCH". I have a 2007 Vantage, Manual. I searched and searched - but found no battery re-connect switch behind the pass side seat. I put a picture below of what it looks like behind my pass side seat. Unfortunately, I do not have the owner's manual to my car.
I went to try the remote method just now and noticed that my lock/unlock buttons were not doing anything. All of the other buttons are working (yellow to switch on parking lights, red to sound the alarm, button to open the hatch) - however the lock and unlock buttons are not doing anything. I tried to manually lock and unlock the car using the key multiple times, but I'm not sure if that has any effect.

Yes, we scanned the car for DTC's. The following codes come up
p0500 - vehicle speed sensor
p0463 - fuel level input out of range (high)
p1233 - Fuel pump driver module disabled or offline

We tried clearing the codes but did not make a difference. Furthermore, my cluster gauge is not fully working properly (Speedo, RPM, fuel gauges not moving). Im not sure if these issues are all related somehow.
We are really not sure where to go from here but feel there is an electronic issue somewhere.

 

Ok, you don't have a switch to enable. You car is activated by the remotes..stupid question but did you try to lock with doors with bonnet/boot/doors all closed?..they need to be.


Have you tried a hard reset..means disconnect the battery and jump both cables together..again WITH BATTERY DISCONNECTED. This will force a complete drain on the electrical system. Keep the battery off for 20 minutes..then connect cable. With all doors closed, try and lock, unlock...does it work?


If at this point nothing has helped...jump the disconnect switch, take the cables off the switch(might want to disconnect the ground from the battery while doing so, not to short with chassis)..once cables are off switch, use a nut and bolt to secure them all together...do the lock/unlock/lock/unlock, now does the car start and function correctly?

 

it is also possible that the CEM codes may need to be erased before it will work the relay. Dealer visit for that.

 

I just tried what you suggested.

1. Hard reset - I disconnected the battery from the vehicle, then connected a jumper cable between the two cables feeding to the car for 30+ minutes (with the battery disconnected). When I re-connected, the lock/unlock feature was still not working. How can I be sure the hard reset worked? When I powered the car back on, all of my pre-set stations were still set.


2. Jumping the Disconnect Switch switch - I disconnected the cable going into the switch. It looks like 3 wires feeding into a connector. I connected the 3 wires together as pictured below. I did not do it exactly as you mentioned (with a nut and bolt) because I didn't want to rip the wires out, but I'm assuming this should yield the same effect? I also posted a picture of this to make sure it was done as you had mentioned.

We erased the CEM codes using a standard OBD2 Scanner - again this did not make a difference. Not sure if there is anything else I can do before towing to the dealer. The tow on a flatbed and rate of 170/hour at my dealer will not be ideal, but will be my last resort if I cannot figure this out.

 

How were you able to erase the codes in the CEM? Do you a factory scan tool? I think you just erased the codes in the ECM, not the CEM. The CEM I thought could only be accessed with a factory scan tool. The CEM is that big white fuse box looking thing you changed the relays in. Let me know which scanner you used. I might want to pick that up too.

 

AMFixer - you are right, I must have just erased the ECM codes. I just used a standard OBD2 scanner to reset the codes. I wasn't aware that there are separate codes within the CEM

 

No, you don't jump the connector wires. I wanted you to jump the switch..take the large red cables off the switch and use a nut and bolt to fit them together, this way you can pass large amperage through...this tells me if the battery disconnect switch is causing the no start issue. Once you pair the cables together, again do the lock/unlock/lock/unlock.
The fuel system is disabled because P1233 states so...that code needs to be diagnosed as to why the CEM will not allow it to clear in the PCM. By jumping the BDC, it might allow you to use the remotes and enable the fueling so that P1233 will clear.












The door locks on the other hand..this requires a dealer scan to see why they are not operating..

 

What Irish said. Im guessing there is a code stored the CEM for crash input or something like that, which is not allowing the relay to work. Ive had that before

 

Yah, just the crash input code will be stored and not allow starting until the locks are cycled, which is why P1233 is stored in the PTEC..you need to get those door locks to cycle, otherwise fueling will stay disabled. Once cycled the crash input code will still be stored but not prevent starting, and P1233 will clear on it's own from PTEC.

 

Alright that makes sense. I just need to get the door locks to cycle. So far, nothing I have done has allowed me to lock/unlock using the key fob.
I'm still not sure I follow how to jump the switch. I don't see any large red cables on the switch. I'm just seeing the cable with the 3 wires and connector feeding into the switch.
I have attached a picture of my switch removed from the housing. Am I looking in the wrong place for these red cables?

 

try using the key to lock the doors. he means the big red cable at that box under the battery

 

I tried using the key to manually lock/unlock. When I do so, only the door I put the key in locks or unlocks (i.e.- driver side alone, or pass side alone). Furthermore, it does not work from inside the car.

 

that box under the battery that has the big red cables is the battery on/off switch. he wants you to jump those cable as he stated, to see if the car starts.