I see ...I'm not talking about the actual button that you press, I'm talking about the battery cut off switch or relay/module..it's the switch that button in your hand controls


under the battery you will see a little black box, almost "t" shaped. There's 1 electrical connector and 3 red cables..1 red on top(along with other smaller gauge wires, need those connected also) and 2 red on the bottom. It's the 2nd picture you posted on this thread. Disconnect your battery, take those red cables off and pair them all together, then reconnect battery.. This bypasses the mechanical/electrical function of any power cut-off

 

THIS is the BDS being referred to and the associated cables to be jumped.

 

Hehe..hopefully all this helps.


Also just a side note: 1 of the battery brackets is missing and whoever removed that carpet trim in front of the battery.. broke the panel, they could of just removed the 2 nuts holding the panel trim versus ripping it out and breaking it..aka CHAINSAW!!!!

 

Thanks for pointing that out. Yes I see now that it wasn't taken out properly. I think I figured out what you mean regarding jumping the switch. I just removed the switch from its place and connected all of the wires together and fastened using a bolt. I just connected them all on the top lug where the switch was initially mounted. Unfortunately, this did not work to start the car. I am also still unable to lock/unlock using the key fob.

 

Without having the car scanned, really starting to run out of idea's ..what are those water looking drops on the cut off switch connector plug and on the black plastic trim below? ..Battery acid?


At this point you've completely bypass's the BDC, so it looks like the CEM is not allowing the vehicle to start..I don't presently think there's a problem with it but rather just it's disabling a system.


You need to get the car scanned by someone with a AMDS, which is usually the dealer. Those remotes need to get working..and it could very well be you just need all the codes cleared and reset due to a crash status input like AMFixer was mentioning..although what puzzles me is even a crash input status should not stop the remotes from working, hence the reason this car needs to be scanned for all DTC's, problem could be right in front of our eyes with a possible stored DTC

 

Thanks all for your help - I have an update. So I took the car to a independant shop that deals with Bentleys and Astons. The gentleman there told me that the fusebox at the passenger side footwell is malfunctioning. When he jumped this fusebox, all of the features in the car that were not once functioning are now working fine (car is starting fine, the power seats are working again). He said te next step is to replace the entire fuse box. I called the dealer - the part is $900. They also said that the fuse box needs to be programmed for the vin of the car. My independant shop said otherwise. Does anyone have an idea if this fisebox actually needs to be programmed specifically to the vehicle? Sometimes, I can't believe everything the dealer tells me. (Once the BMW dealer told me they need 3 hours of labor to change an amplifier because it needs to be programmed...which I was able to replace with a simple swap)

 

Yes. That is correct. This not just a fuse box, that's a computer, it's called a CEM, central electronic module, it's the brain of the whole car. It stores the car configuration, remotes, and other options. You will need all the keys and remotes when changing it too.

 

Thanks for your reply. I will just need to have all of my keys/remotes present during this programming or I will actually have to have my keys/remotes replaced?

 

So you didn't go to the dealer and get the entire vehicle scanned for faults?


That"fusebox" is called a CEM module. It's also in charge of cutting power to particular systems of the vehicle, including the fuel injectors. Like I've explained, if this module see's something it does not like, it will cut power...your bypassing the fuse to engage power..ok. Now is the module faulty and not allowing power through or is their a fault code flagged showing "why" it's not allowing those systems to power up.


Your "garage that works on Bentley and Aston" needs to do some more research. That "fusebox" is indeed programmed to the vehicle by VIN. The VIN is stored in the PCM and CEM( "that fusebox"), all your vehicle options are stored in the CEM under a file called "config"...That CEM Ford used to install, is used on various other brands that had been under Ford roof at the time(it's a Volvo unit). All those other brands will also require programming. Now you can go find a junkyard CEM that's already programmed and then cross your figures that car had "every" option you had, it will work..but then you get a incorrect VIN correlation between PCM and CEM...ALSO you have to hope that car had less mileage than your car, otherwise that CEM will update your cluster to the higher mileage and is not reversible unless you find someone to roll back your mileage, but then you get a mileage tamper code because the cluster PCM mileage doesn't match up with total mileage driven in all gears recorded by TCU.


BTW: I hope you have your key remote I.D codes, you might need them to program your remotes back to the car. If you don't have them..then replacing the CEM might require you to replace your remotes also with brand new unit...




Judging your "garage" on the single statement you wrote of what they said...I would take my car and go to the dealer, especially if your considering paying 900$ for a CEM + remotes...what are you saving by using your local garage, espesically if he's wrong..or will he eat the cost of the parts not required that you bought for no reason? ..By going to the dealer, you might save 900$ + remotes, or you might actually require a CEM..but not scanning for codes and just jumping fuses doesn't rule the CEM as "faulty"

 

Cliff notes: bite the bullet and go to the dealership.

 

Adnanm3,

Did you get to a solution with this inertia switch? I am having a similar issue with my 2006 V8 Vantage that I obtained in the USA. My issue is I am in Jamaica and there are no dealers so I have to solve this on my own. So I am reaching out to this forum for help and your issues sound very similar to what I am having. It started with a BDS check warning.

I found the yellow button (battery reconnect switch) the low on the left of the passenger side, pushed it and the car regained power and allowed me to get all the way to pushing the red button. It then cranks, then briefly comes to life (teasing the heck out of me), then dies, then just cranks without starting thereafter. I have to disconnect the battery in order to get it back briefly come to life before dying again. The codes that repeatedly come up are P1233 (Fuel Pump Driver Module offline) and P2111 (Throttle Actuator Control Stuck open).

Now I am assuming that during shipping here to JA and moving the container the car may have detected a bump and the container was moved and registered it as an accident and disabled the fuel pump as the car started in the USA and only showed codes for MAF sensor and misfire corrections.

Looking for any guidance on the options. I am going to try the pin in Relay #2 and see if that works over the weekend. Any suggestions appreciated.