Hi,
Yet another thread about dual plate clutches and lightened flywheels.
Although I have spent a lot of time reading about all the options (AMR vs VAP vs DAE vs BR vs OEM), I haven't managed to find out the info I need.
Can someone please tell me if it possible to install an AMR kit WITHOUT doing the software update recommended by AM ? If so, what needs to be known (downsides even minor) about installing this kit without the software upgrade in relation to inertia, etc (not in relation with bumping the idle or running a coast down to relearn the misfire correction factors) ?
Also can someone explain to me what is 36-1 flywheel profile learn ? And how to achieve that ?
Thank you

 

The AMR kit I cannot advise on. AMR states it is not compatible without a software update. If the throw on the clutch is different to the OEM throw by any meaningful amount it will not function well/correctly unless the TCU/ECU are updated.

The 36-1 and misfire correction factors you're referring to is exactly the same thing. There are 36 optical pickup points on the back of the flywheel, and then one missing. The ECU uses this to detect misfires. Since every flywheel is very slightly different (OEM included) the ECU needs to 'learn' the 36-1 pattern for the new flywheel. That's the - erase stored misfire corrections - coast down procedure to learn the new ones - that you're referring to.

 

Hi, thanxs for your answer. What about installing a VAP kit then (on a 4.3 manual) ? Is a software update required or is a coast down sufficient ?
Thanxs

 

My car's PO installed the VAP dual clutch and lightened flywheel and I can vouch that the setup works perfectly. Shifting is smooth and light, no lugging or stalling issues, and the engine rev's quickly up to 7000 and sounds great doing it! The paperwork does not mention any software changes.

 

I am running the VAP clutch and flywheel on my 07 Vantage Manual. For a manual transmission , erasing ( by disconnecting the battery ) and then doing the coast down procedure is sufficient and was relatively simple IMHO.
I think the software update that Stewart is referring to is the recalibration of a sport shift manual, The system needs to relearn the clutch thickness so it can shift properly.

You can check if the coast down ( misfire detection ) procedure was learned with an Aston capable ODBII reader, a regular ODBII will not work. I simply did 5 passes coasting down from 70 to 20 in 6th gear on a straight road drove home and checked with the reader and that was it. and that was it. You will also need to reset your windows after disconnecting the battery ( hold down till click heard, then hold up till click heard )
The VAP clutch is a lot lighter feel and the car revs noticeably faster from about 4000 rpm. You may get some tranny noise with the VAP clutch however.
I did mine in conjunction with a VAP tune and asked for the idle rpm increase ( for the clutch ) as part of the tune package and it very rarely rattles ( not never but almost never )

 

Hi, Many thanxs for this very precise explanation.
What about the feeling under 4000 rpm ? Like OEM or you do feel some form on throttle responsiveness improvement ?
Cheers

 

Just the clutch \ flywheel by itself does not seem to really do a lot for throttle response under 4000 rpm. I actually did my clutch and then waited about 2 weeks before I did the velocity tune as I needed to fix an intake leak due to the crappy plastic intake housing clamp ( replaced with a proper band clamp ) Once I had that fixed and the car was no longer throwing an O2 sensor too lean code every once in a while I then did the VAP tune and that completely changed the throttle response throughout the range of the car , as well as improved performance overall.
Normally im fairly sceptical of "off the shelf" tuning solutions but VAP seems to have gotten this right.
The throttle after a VAP tune will take some getting used too as its very very responsive. Im completely convinced that Aston realized that the clutch for the V8 was not beefy enough and as a result "detuned" throttle response to keep the average driver from burning up the clutch every couple of thousand miles rather than engineer a more expensive fix.

 

Great explanation. Thank you.
Since I already have the VAP tune (and if I understand correctly), I will feel a good difference as of 4000 rpm with the VAP Clutch kit.
Last question, did the throttle pedal seem too soft at first ? I am slightly worried that the pedal feel seems so soft that I will loose some form of connection with the car (it is a sports car after all)
Have a nice day

 

I had the VAP tune about a year before doing the AMR clutch/flywheel on my 4.3 manual. With the tune I immediately noticed the improvements in throttle response at lower engine speeds starting at just off idle and the increased willingness to rev to redline. The lightened flywheel enhanced that liveliness everywhere. The only downside is that I get some bucking at closed or nearly closed throttle coasting at low speeds. It's very minor. I didn't do any reflashing when I did the AMR flywheel but did subsequently replaced the battery so there was an ECU reset of sorts. Before or after I've have had no CELs nor has the car behaved any differently.

As for the clutch pedal force, the AMR is not as heavy, but it's still heavier than most cars and you'll quickly get used to it.

 

Hi, thanxs for your response. That is very good to know.
What do you mean by "bucking" ? You mean like jerking, hesitating, shaking, etc ?
Was the clutch pedal soft, very soft, too soft ? I am worried that it gets too soft ;-)
What about clutch shatter, did you get any ? Didn't your ask VAP to modify your tune in order to raise idle bump ?
Many thanxs

 

Yeah, bucking=jerking. It only happens going slightly downhill at very light throttle, give it just a touch of gas and it goes away. It's a small spot in the canned tune that would be eliminated if it were done specifically on the car. It was there with the heavier flywheel too so it's not related to the AMR parts.

Not soft at all. After a couple years it now feels stiff. You really don't have to worry about this, there's a lot of feedback and still feels natural.

There's some light chatter if I get out of the car and get close to ground level. Otherwise nothing while driving. It's there but it's supposed to be there, cars make noises. No need for any idle adjustments when I went from stock to AMR.

 

Fantastic...Great feedback Cheers