Perfect swap for the OEM battery... it's important that the top of the new battery have the OEM carry handles... the bracket that holds the battery in place is molded to sit behind the two handles. The battery compartment is VERY snug on this MY....

 

Funny, I have been thinking about this as well, were you starting to notice issues cranking or seeing electronic gremlins? What prompted the swap? As a DYI, how was it? Do you have the DieHard model number? I was actually contemplating a lighter battery since I drive mine fairly regularly and throw it on a tender if it sits for a week. Thanks! KH

Edit, just did a quick search: DieHard Gold part 49H8

 

NO! The gold battery wont fit in the compartment due to the top of the Gold battery not having handles.. It wont fit . the metal strap that holds the battery is bent to fit under the fuse box...

the platinum one is an identical fit/size as the OEM. The metal strap sits on top of the battery handles - see pic and handles under the strap... 5 bolts hold that strap in..

Yes, there are signs this MY gives you to tell you your battery isn't holding a charge anymore:

1. When you press the start button and there is a long pause before it cranks.. dash lights look really dim...
2. You get the red "shock stability" message
3. E DIFF light comes on
4. The CEL doesnt go out when car starts up - 2 codes trigger: the CEL triggers a low voltage code and the 2nd fuel pump lost communication... I cleared with my foxwell scanner...
both are still working when the car starts but the CEL wont go out until the battery is charged.. next start up...

part# H9-AGM

 

There's an Interstate that does the job as well, and fits like OEM. I don't have the part number handy. When mine died I thought it would be an OEM Aston battery based on mileage, but it was an Interstate and hadn't been replaced too long before I got the car so I was able to swap it under warranty within, I think, the three year period. As a DIY it's not rocket surgery, but it is definitely one of the more obnoxious things to get to, remove, and replace with a lot of fiddling to get the brackets off at the base, and that battery is HEAVY. Redpants has a lightweight substitution and in retrospect it might have made the job a lot more pleasant.

 

redpants ? i placed an order with him back in august , they said they received the order but it hasnt shipped ive been trying for weeks to get info from him on the order and i get zero replies , absolute silence

 

That's odd, he's usually on the ball. I've never had issues with orders from him other than expensive shipping.

 

 

been completely silent , dont know what the issue is

 

Thanks, All - Normally, I don't give two thoughts to changing a battery, but this car seems to be so finicky . . . Took me a while to even figure out WHERE the battery even is, HaHa I have never had that issue before, KH

 

Thank you again, I got the same battery and your post gave me the confidence to do this DIY project. Frankly, it took way longer than a battery swap should, but it will go faster in 3 years, HaHa The one thing that I will add, remove the fuse box (3 very accessible 10mm bolts) to allow you to LIFT the battery out of the compartment. I tried sliding the battery straight out for a bit, but once the fuse box is out, you can lift the battery over the wire harness fray-- KH

EDIT: Just drove around to drop off the battery core and found another indicator that your battery is aging, the Auto-Engine off "feature" surprised me as I was just driving off. Usually, it took a while for it to kick in, I assumed it was trying to let the car warm up; the green-A lights up nearly immediately after startup! Not necessarily a good thing, but there you have it!

 

Interstate battery should be MTX model which designates it as a AGM battery which is a requirement for stop/start vehicles.
-JW