My Vantage is due for an oil change this November—the same time that I'll be putting her into storage for a few months.

My question is, should I change the oil/filters before storage, after I take her out from storage...or both?

 

One of the primary reasons to to a time-based oil change is to remove any moisture from the fluids. Conversely, one of the primary reasons to do the service post winter is to remove oil that has any moisture.
If it's a dry, temperature controlled environment change first..... You can also put a plug into the oil breather lines ..... Just remember to remove them prior to operating again.

Only 1 persons opinion ....

I'd also add .... Fill the gas tank to the brim to keep any moisture out and lube up the gas filler door prior to storage ....... They can stick so easily .....

 

I don't think it really matters, but I would wait until the spring in case you want to do other service to the car for next season. Generally the annual service is more than just an oil change. It includes brake fluid flush and possibly filters and other fluids depending on the year of the car or mileage. This is if you want to keep it in line with Aston's servicing schedule. Personally, I would rather have the brakes bleed closer to the season start.

Fill the tires to the max, fill the tank to the max. Good time to apply leather conditioner and treat the wood if there is any.

 

Another Note .... I add an additional 10% of air to my tires and use tire cradles .... The additional air is well within the capacity (remember they get higher pressure when hot) and the cradles keep them from flat spotting ...

 

Don't know where you are, but the other option is to not put car in storage at all. Where I live...I drive year round not taking it out in snow, ice or when roads are covered with salt... or temps below 35 (tires).
Usually the longest interval is less than three straight weeks. If more I start/warm it up in garage.
Thanks,
JH

 

Also, be sure to hook your car up to a battery tender if you’re going to store it for an extended period of time.

I’ve also heard about putting mothballs in the engine bay and dryer sheets in the car to keep rodents away - does anybody out there do this?

 

Get rat/mouse poison or traps. Rodents love to chew wires. I get the poison and sprinkle it under the car and around the car. I don’t know if you have pets but keep that in mind if they go to where the car is stored.

 

Well, I'm in the DMV and have a very nice garage complete with trickle chargers and rodent protection. You could remove much worry by letting me store it and drive it (to keep the tires round and the systems healthy)...

+1 on the above but I find there are enough dry road, nice days during the winter to drive mine hard every couple of weeks. For the first time in a while I don't have any pre-planned service/repair that I want to do on it. They really are happier being exercised but of course you have to watch out for the brine/salt solution.

 

+1 for AM4884, I also was considering "storing" mine for the winters, but have often found there are pockets everywhere throughout all 4 season to drive it all year. If you look on the FB groups of v8/v12 owners, lots of post around the spring time arise as to issues folks are having from post hibernation. From flat spots, to worn bushings from lifting their car for long periods of time, to poor/rough startups, etc.

 

I'm with @Bones 53 with driving in the winter if the roads and weather look good. Even though the car is "in storage".

 

Thanks all for the advice. This is my first winter with the car, so I'm still new to this.
I know the cars are mostly fiberglass and aluminum, but I'm a bit concerned about salt and the lack of winter tires.

Any suggestions for at-home air compressors/tire inflators?

 

I've inflated the tires with a floor bicycle pump. Since you have a home and garage, buy a real air compressor. Go as big as the space and common sense allows. Retractable air compressor hose.

 

If you are driving your car in the winter in the northern climes even on "nice weather" days.........you are killing the car. The dry salt dust gets kicked up and drawn into your undercarriage where it begins it's destruction. If you are leasing or trade every 3 years or so then it's no big deal........If you plan on a long term relationship with that particular car then you're killing your car. Even one drive is un acceptable. I'm aghast that you guys would even consider driving in the winter. Running for 15-30 minutes during the winter is also a bad idea. Just let it be.

 

Respectfully, DonBond, you appear to be on a roll today. A well cared for and often washed car will last 15 -20 years without being destroyed. I buy my cars to drive, not sit around and worry about resale value.
Thanks,
JH

 

I use this in the winter when washing our cars.