Hi all, hopefully not starting a new thread on a topic already covered but the few combinations of terms I searched didn’t turn up anything for me.

I know that the 2011+ Vantages had changes to increase the rigidity of the chassis. I’ve only had one long drive in my 07 V8V but it did feel as though there was quite a bit of chassis flex, feeling a bit like a convertible does. I’m assuming that this was chassis flex that I was feeling since this was addressed on later models.

It looks like Bamford Rose offers shear panel upgrades to stiffen the chassis but I’ve heard they don’t ship to the US. Would love to be corrected if this isn’t the case.

I’m sure I’m not the first to be interested in this, how are people here typically increasing the rigidity of the early V8V chassis? Are there other options besides Bamford Rose for shear panel upgrades?

Thanks in advance.

 

https://www.powerflex.co.uk/products/V8+%26+V12+Vantage+%282005-2018%29-3788/1.html

 

I have a 2006 DB9 Volante and whilst I know its not a V8V it is based on a similar structure. I could feel the chassis flexing so I upgraded the shear plates underneath with later one -the front shear plate is a different design and much stronger, the rear shear plate wasn't even on the DB9s until much later (just the DBS) and as well as making it stronger, it ties the rear subframe into the chassis - there were some mods needed to fit this part - Your Vantage may be similar - more info in link below

https://db9s.com/chassis/

 

I believe the roadster has a plate that the coupe does not, maybe that could be added? #55 below:

 

The coupe doesn't have 55 or 53 according to the parts diagram for the coupe

 

Interesting, thanks guys. I was previously under the impression the shear plates on the roadster/later model cars was an upgrade rather than an addition but I'm obviously still learning about these cars. Certainly something to look into further. Wonder what would go into adding these on a car that didn't come with them. The Powerflex bushings are something I've looked to add to previous cars (think I still have some in the box for an E46 somewhere) but haven't ever done, would that make a huge difference in chassis rigidity?

 

From “the book”. The DEFINITIVE BUYER’S and ENTHUSIAST’S GUIDE to new Gaydon era ASTON MARTIN 2003 - 2021. It is a must purchase for any current or prospective owner.

“Side Note: Torsional rigidity is measured by the amount of force in Newton Metres that is required to flex the structure through 1 degree: DB9/S = 27kNm, Rapide 28kNm, Vantage 29kNm, Vanquish 31kNM, the new DB11 is better again at 34kNM proving the continued evolution of the concept. Here are a few competitors models since 2004: Bentley Azure -18 kNm, Jaguar XK 16kNm, Lamborghini Gallardo 23kNm, Maserati QP 18kNm, Porsche 911 996TT 27kNm & 997 33kNm. Soft-tops are “circa”: pre-09MY DB9 Volante = 15.5kNm, DBS Volante 20kNm, Vantage Roadster 21kNm & 22/23 kNm Vanquish Volante. Competitor examples: 996TT Cab 11.6kNm, BMW Z4 14.5kNm, 013 Merc SL 19kNm, Lotus Elise 11kNm. “

 

This is quite common to a lot of cars from all makes.
When you cut away the roof, you loose torsional (i.e twist) rigidity, as the roof stiffens the chassis quite a lot.
To compensate that, convertibles usually try to stiffen the underside by closing open structure (besides stiffening the sills, obviously). Which is why convertibles usually are heavier...
If you now retrofit the stiffening parts to a coupe, its structure gets additionally stiffened.
On the V8V, the racingcars also use the convertible plates...
Typical BMW E36/E46 parts are the X-brace, tying together both sides of the open transmition tunnel and the front axle crossmember.

 

Pricey book, but looks helpful. If I'm reading this correctly it looks like the Vantage actually has more torsional rigidity than nearly everything else listed here? Wonder if what I'm feeling won't be solved by chassis stiffening if that's the case and could be something else that I'm feeling.

I may be more limited on what I'm able to do with the Vantage, any suspension upgrades that alter ride height are probably out. Curbs are far too high where I live.

Sounds like that convertible plate could be my answer then if it's also used in the Vantage race cars. At least a potential upgrade worth doing. I read the DB9 article supplied above and the install is a bit more involved for that car but not terrible. I'm surprised that this isn't more common or there isn't articles on this already if this is used on the race cars and based on what I felt on my first drive. The Vantage was incredible except for a feeling of flex. My 2015 Audi Allroad obviously felt inferior in every single way following my Vantage outing, except the Allroad did feel like it was a more solid/rigid platform, which is what prompted me to start this thread.

 

[QUOTE=PC-V8V;4920082
Sounds like that convertible plate could be my answer then if it's also used in the Vantage race cars. At least a potential upgrade worth doing. I read the DB9 article supplied above and the install is a bit more involved for that car but not terrible. I'm surprised that this isn't more common or there isn't articles on this already if this is used on the race cars and based on what I felt on my first drive. The Vantage was incredible except for a feeling of flex. My 2015 Audi Allroad obviously felt inferior in every single way following my Vantage outing, except the Allroad did feel like it was a more solid/rigid platform, which is what prompted me to start this thread.[/QUOTE]

Maybe because others dont felt the "flex" like you?
Can you describe more precisly what you mean and under which circumstance you felt it?
How many kms your V8V has run? Are all tires and suspension bushings top notch?

 

Hmm, a bit hard to describe I guess but a feeling of bounce or flex not coming from the four corners/suspension itself. Very slight but noticeable. EVO magazine made mention of it in one of their in-period reviews as well (It may have been the 2005 first drive review) likening the feel to something like a convertible.

Felt during a 100-ish mi. drive through back roads. Regular driving and not pushing hard at all. The roads in the area are pretty rough.

Mine is at 14k miles/22.5k kms. Brand new tires on the front, good condition tires at the rear. No mention of any issues with suspension bushings during it's inspection recently.

 

I doubt it’s anything to do with torsional rigidity. Sounds more like suspension geometry. Granted Aston did a lot of work on this for later cars as the 4.3s did do some weird stuff as you approach the limit, but you’d have to be really pushing it for that. Maybe the car is out of alignment, or some of the suspension components are just worn out. It’s a pretty old car now. I know with experience with old BMWs doing wayward stuff, just replacing the bushings and getting a quality alignment makes a massive difference.

 

Or maybe the 1st gen dampers causing the impression, they had the tendency to induce some light bounce on bumpy roads - the 2nd gen Bilsteins give a more composed ride.

I remember quite well what a stiffened chassis felt like after getting a Gr.A type fully weded in cage in my BMW E30M3 - I would not have believed the added precision it made.
However, I never had the feeling of my 07 V8V having a "flexy" chassis - actually felt more like a tank TBH.

 

In my opinion the best stiffening parts for a V8V Coupe are the components introduced with the convertible body and V12 engine. Available in 2 thicknesses, I used only the rear part and the thinner of the 2, it was about 50 thousandths thick. It was interchangeable with the vacuum formed plastic part under the transaxle but longer and Y shaped to tie into the floor pan L& R.

Existing attaching points eased the assembly, but a few had to be drilled. Weight was approx the same, 4# out, 4# in. Cost was about $500 at the dealer when I. did it 10 yrs ago. If not stiff enough with this upgrade consider adding the forward panel shown in the drawing above.

 

The drawings above also show a third stiffening part, #20, Plate, reinforcement, tunnel. At least 4 of the 8 attaching points illustrated are used to secure an exhaust heat shield. Remove the 4 bolts, add the plate, reinstall the bolts.

When I bought the rear shear panel sourcing through a dealer was best for me.
-There was no significant fee from a Brit source for packaging and shipping such a large part. The part came in the dealers regular service part order from AM.
-Likewise there was no potential duty hassel, i. e., added cost, added time, potential appointment for delivery, eliminated an opportunity for screw up.