Early V8V Chassis Rigidity Upgrades
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I doubt it’s anything to do with torsional rigidity. Sounds more like suspension geometry. Granted Aston did a lot of work on this for later cars as the 4.3s did do some weird stuff as you approach the limit, but you’d have to be really pushing it for that. Maybe the car is out of alignment, or some of the suspension components are just worn out. It’s a pretty old car now. I know with experience with old BMWs doing wayward stuff, just replacing the bushings and getting a quality alignment makes a massive difference.
Or maybe the 1st gen dampers causing the impression, they had the tendency to induce some light bounce on bumpy roads - the 2nd gen Bilsteins give a more composed ride.
I remember quite well what a stiffened chassis felt like after getting a Gr.A type fully weded in cage in my BMW E30M3 - I would not have believed the added precision it made.
However, I never had the feeling of my 07 V8V having a "flexy" chassis - actually felt more like a tank TBH.
I remember quite well what a stiffened chassis felt like after getting a Gr.A type fully weded in cage in my BMW E30M3 - I would not have believed the added precision it made.
However, I never had the feeling of my 07 V8V having a "flexy" chassis - actually felt more like a tank TBH.
In my opinion the best stiffening parts for a V8V Coupe are the components introduced with the convertible body and V12 engine. Available in 2 thicknesses, I used only the rear part and the thinner of the 2, it was about 50 thousandths thick. It was interchangeable with the vacuum formed plastic part under the transaxle but longer and Y shaped to tie into the floor pan L& R.
Existing attaching points eased the assembly, but a few had to be drilled. Weight was approx the same, 4# out, 4# in. Cost was about $500 at the dealer when I. did it 10 yrs ago. If not stiff enough with this upgrade consider adding the forward panel shown in the drawing above.
Existing attaching points eased the assembly, but a few had to be drilled. Weight was approx the same, 4# out, 4# in. Cost was about $500 at the dealer when I. did it 10 yrs ago. If not stiff enough with this upgrade consider adding the forward panel shown in the drawing above.
The drawings above also show a third stiffening part, #20, Plate, reinforcement, tunnel. At least 4 of the 8 attaching points illustrated are used to secure an exhaust heat shield. Remove the 4 bolts, add the plate, reinstall the bolts.
When I bought the rear shear panel sourcing through a dealer was best for me.
-There was no significant fee from a Brit source for packaging and shipping such a large part. The part came in the dealers regular service part order from AM.
-Likewise there was no potential duty hassel, i. e., added cost, added time, potential appointment for delivery, eliminated an opportunity for screw up.
When I bought the rear shear panel sourcing through a dealer was best for me.
-There was no significant fee from a Brit source for packaging and shipping such a large part. The part came in the dealers regular service part order from AM.
-Likewise there was no potential duty hassel, i. e., added cost, added time, potential appointment for delivery, eliminated an opportunity for screw up.
Makes complete sense on having the dealer take care of the process due to everything you outlined. Shipping/duty was a hassle for the AMR clutch I had shipped in from a source in England last year. Unfortunately I don't have a dealer close to me, but maybe that will be a good excuse for a road trip sometime this year.
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I don't think there were any structural changes to the 2011+ Vantages. My '09 feels exceptionally structurally rigid, IMO, which is one of the things I love about it. The torsional rigidity figures from Grant's book that Davil posted bear that out. PhuketPaul, the early DB9 Volante was much less rigid than the Vantage, and later DB9 Volantes were quite a bit stiffer than the early cars like yours.
EVO, as I recall, commented on a slight "rocking" motion under certain road conditions that they attributed to the early V8V's suspension setup. This was eliminated with the 4.7 cars (and the Roadster).
Unless there is something very wrong with your car (unlikely), like others here, I doubt what you're feeling is chassis flex. Much more likely it's something to do with the suspension, potentially due to wear/age, or perhaps alignment.
EVO, as I recall, commented on a slight "rocking" motion under certain road conditions that they attributed to the early V8V's suspension setup. This was eliminated with the 4.7 cars (and the Roadster).
Unless there is something very wrong with your car (unlikely), like others here, I doubt what you're feeling is chassis flex. Much more likely it's something to do with the suspension, potentially due to wear/age, or perhaps alignment.
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I agree, the point that I was making was that the changes I made to my Volante had a huge beneficial effect and although the Vantage is stiffer the same changes would make it even more rigid.
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When I've experienced flex in convertibles, it has been noticeable through the steering wheel moving from side to side. So the seats attached to the back of the car stay in place, but the front twists and takes the steering wheel with it.
What you're describing sounds like it could be something worn in the suspension
What you're describing sounds like it could be something worn in the suspension
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I've also installed the front shear plate on my '07 V8V coupe. I had to drill 2 new holes, and add 6 (I think) nutserts to securing points under the car, to be able to install it on my, admittedly early, coupe.
I have a rear shear plate sitting in the garage to install in the next few weeks and expect I'll need to do similar on it. I'm also installing uprated swaybars front and rear (28mm and 29mm respectively) along with poly bushings for the swaybars. My car is on H&R springs on good condition factory dampers and I like the ride stiffness about where it is, so I'm trying to improve handling/responsiveness slightly without any appreciable decrease in ride quality.
I have a rear shear plate sitting in the garage to install in the next few weeks and expect I'll need to do similar on it. I'm also installing uprated swaybars front and rear (28mm and 29mm respectively) along with poly bushings for the swaybars. My car is on H&R springs on good condition factory dampers and I like the ride stiffness about where it is, so I'm trying to improve handling/responsiveness slightly without any appreciable decrease in ride quality.
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