I really appreciate all the help. On the Foxwell, I use it to clear the codes, but I need to learn all the other uses—particularly the live data and what I can learn from it. I will search YouTube, but I would appreciate input from anyone who is proficient with it—-what I should be looking for, what the data should be, what it means if the figures are high or low. It’s a lot!

Thanks

 

On battery replacement I've used 2 sources for convenience. Duracell brand at Sam's club and also from a store chain Batteries plus, which also has almost and light bulb and or batteries for anything you could imagine. $200-$250 range.

 

There is a Batteries Plus near me with prices right in line with what you said. Great find! Thanks!

 

Thanks for the advice, I will keep it in my mind.


 

I replaced my battery, spark plugs and coil packs. Car seems to run smoother but is still occasionally throwing codes which cause the red triangle light to illuminate and says Urgent Emissions Service Required (or something like that). The issue usually happens about 10 minutes after I start the car. When it happens, I can turn the car off and immediately turn it back on and the issue goes away.

I did the misfire correction exercise last night and used a Foxwell scanner to confirm it was successful. Went for a drive this morning and it still threw the codes. The codes are:

2106 and
2135.

Any ideas? Would these be caused by bad 02 sensors?

Thanks

 

I am glad some progress has been made, but there is clearly more to do.

The two codes appear to be your old throttle issues again, nothing to do with the O2 sensors. 2106 is the throttle body sensors error and 2135 is the throttle pedal position sensor discrepancy. It is odd that you get both and suggests to me that rather than the usual dirty sensors that needs cleaning (the usual suspect and apparently tied already) it is the system that checks for faults in this subsystem that is in error occasionally. There seems to be some cryptic wording in your original report from the dealer that suggests they were thinking something similar. I am not an expert in these systems and cannot offer detailed suggestions.

What I would do is the following. Take the Foxwell unit and look for the real time data screens. I recall you can monitor both the demand and actual throttle pedal position. With the ignition on, but engine off, gently press the throttle and look for any glitches, jumps or non-linearities in position. Then repeat with the car outside, stationary and warming up. You might get lucky and see something wig-out as the engine warms.

Other than that I can suggest nothing better than a trip to the dealer, but now at least with a focused set of intermittent issues rather than a laundry list.
Good luck.

Philip

 

Well, folks…the problem persists and is REALLY frustrating.
Almost always, the car throws the codes within the first 1o minutes of starting. Sometime in only a few minutes. Once the car warms up, it does not seem to throw the codes.

My indy, who also happens to be an electrical engineer, thinks it is a loose connection in the wiring harness. His best guess is that when the car warms up/gets hot, the connection is more solid/stable. I live in Dallas, Texas. It is warm even in the mornings. I store the car in an underground garage. Yesterday, I drove to the golf tourney in Ft. Worth. The car threw codes in the morning a few minutes after I started it. I cleared the codes, and the car ran great all the way to Ft. Worth (not quite an hour). I came out of the golf tourney about 5 hours later. Car had been sitting in the sun. The car started right up and did not throw any codes on the drive home.

This morning, the car threw codes within a few minutes of starting. Went to the practice range, hit *****, had lunch, started car a few hours later, and it threw the codes. Took several times with the Foxwell to clear them.

And, the car is now not only going into limp mode. It will die. SO FRUSTRATING.

I love everything about this car, but this electrical gremlin is making me sour. Is there some way to simply disconnect the portion of the software/electrical system that is causing this malady? If not, any other suggestions on how to fix the problem?

HELP!

 

These kind of things are indeed frustrating. I think there is nothing for it but to strip back carpet and trim and start wiggling wires and sensors from one end to the other to see if one recreates to fault once warm. I would suggest flexing as well as wiggling modules and sensors as you ( or they) go.

I will add that my suspicion is a dry joint or lifted pad on a PCB either in a module or even a sensor. Usually loose wires are more sensitive to vibration and road bumps. Printed circuit boards flex a little as other components onboard warm and this can close a minute gap and spring load a dry joint or lifted pad. Hence they are more immune to vibration. I have had this on a few boards over the years that were not car related, but similar technology.

Bummer

 

Doing the monitoring with the Foxwell as previously suggested would be a great idea. But unless you know what the numbers you are looking at are telling you (I am clueless) then I it’s not much help. This is best left to a knowledgeable tech.

What I would suggest is replacing one or both TBs, as the codes suggest issues with the TB. They are $350 used on eBay and very easy to install for a DIYer. Probably less than you would spend for 1 hr of diagnostic at AM. Unfortunately, your codes don’t say which side is throwing the error, Both sides are the same part so start with one and see how it goes. If the issue persists, put back the original one and replace the other side. It would be VERY odd that both of your TBs are bad, so I believe you can find the issue quickly. Hope this helps.

 

@Tashakes—-I have a 2006 V8V. I think there is only one throttle body. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Can anyone tell me what values should be on the Foxwell?
My “relative throttle position” and “absolute throttle position” differ greatly (4.7058 v. 15.924 with engine not running).

Same thing with pedal position:
Absolute sensor 1(20.392) v Absolute sensor 2 (9.8039) with engine not running.

Anyone know what they should be?

The car runs about 10 minutes, goes into limp mode, and then dies. Sigh…

 

@Skidog214 sorry you are right. I was thinking of the V12. I’m not sure if you have posted on the FB DIY group to get what the correct readings should be or more help. There is a wealth of knowledge there including a couple of certified AM techs as well as actual factory engineers. Worth a try.

 

Thx Tashakes. I am not on FB, but maybe I will join.

 

pm coming your way

Edwin

 

Hopefully you have googled those codes and looked at what can be found on the web. Here's a good thread on the 2135 code:

https://blog.1aauto.com/how-to-diagn...ke-a-mechanic/

The nice thing about the OBDII system is that the codes are all used, and the errors that they identify tend to translate from OEM to OEM. I usually start with Ford as my comparison point to Aston (which are hard to find online).

 

Thought I would provide a follow-up for others who may encounter a similar problem.

There is a small group of 4 or 5 thin wires that are encased in a black sleeve that runs to a connector on the left side of the throttle body. The encasing material/sheath had been removed a bit (probably to inspect the wires) and the wires were exposed and “drooping” onto a metal component that gets hot as the engine warms up. I ran the wires over a vaccum hose to hold them taught and away from the heat of the engine and—-no more problems!

So, I hope this helps someone else. I appreciate the constructive input of all in this community.