I am a new owner of a 2006 v8V manual shift. 17,400 miles on it when I bought it. About 17,800 on it now. I test drove the car and had no issues. I did not have a PPI. The car was bought out of an estate and had not been driven much. The prior owner bought it, drove it 200 miles, and passed away. So, his family was selling the car, but had not driven it much over the last year. Also, I am told the first owner went to jail for fraud and the car was impounded for 4 years in its early life.

The problem---intermittent CEL and Emissions warning.
The first day after I bought it, I drove about 30 minutes on the freeway to a meeting. No issues. On the way back, when I was almost home and stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic, the check emissions dialog box came up, the amber light went on, and it went into limp mode. I had never heard of limp mode, so it scared the heck out of me. I got the car home and researched on the internet. Learned about the T1/T2 reset. Cleared the code and got the amber light to go off. Car ran fine.

As I drove the car more frequently, I would occasionally hear/feel a "pop", the engine would start running a little rough, and the emissions warning and light would come on. I would do the T1/T2 reset thing and be okay.

Then, it got to a point where it would not go away for long. So, I took it to my Indy. He ran a scan and got the following codes:
PO121
P1579
P2104
P2106
P2111
P2135

He cleared the codes and the car ran fine. I drove the car for quite a while hoping the condition would happen again so he could diagnose it, but it did not return. I have been driving the car for a couple of weeks, and all of the sudden, it's back. Except now sometimes the amber light goes to RED and the car goes into fail safe mode. I can clear it, but it come back pretty quickly.

Maintenance History:

A review of the repair records reveals that this has been limp mode/CEL malady has been taking place since at least April 2018 at 13,137 miles (Car is now at approximately 17,800 miles). My guess is that the prior efforts did not address the REAL problem. The maintenance history prior to me is as follows:

- 2023-01-27 17,087 mi.

- Spare key stopped working
- **Check engine light came on and limp mode.**
- **Added stabilant 22 to throttle body and throttle pedal connectors. **
- **Cleared codes, drove 61 miles. **
- **Working properly**.
- Perform 1/3 year service.
- Changed oil
- Changed brake fluid.
- replaced FOB battery.
- $2,607.71 Total
- 2022-07-20. 17,033 mi
- Inspection-passed.
- 2021-08-09
- Paint and clear guard front bumper.
- 2019-11-04 16,630 mi.
- **CEL is on and the engine will not exceed 2K rpm. **
- **Scanned faults:**
- **P2135**
- **P2106**
- **Found baggy connection at throttle pedal**
- **Corrected throttle pedal connections.**
- **Performed test drive and no faults present. **
- Installed thermostat.
- Installed coolant.
- 2019--06-23
- Replaced battery.
- 2019-06-13
- Oil Filter, sump plug, and seal.
- Total $65.16
- **2018-09-06. 14,404 mi.**
- **Engine is staying in limp mode even after reset. **
- **Scanned fault codes. Throttle communication faults present. [DOES NOT SAY WHAT THEY ARE]**
- **Installed Spanish Oak Module.**
- **"Checked throttle body and throttle pedal wiring. Ran complete wire overlays from the throttle body and throttle pedal to the engine control module. Condition still present. Contact AM aftersales. **
- **"Determined MOST LIKELY [not sure] Body Module or CEM was replaced. Per Fault tracing and AM Aftersales Technician Recommendation. Replaced the Engine Control Module [Does he mean Spanish Oak Module???]. Programmed to vehicle. Road tested 30 plus miles. Fault Codes did not return. **
- 2018-08-15
- XPEL applied to hood, mirrors, bumper, fender, lights
- 2018-07-23 13,619 mi.
- New tires.
- Front 34
- Rear 36
- 2018-05-18. 13,148 mi.
- **Vehicle runs rough and CEL is on and it is not accelerating.**
- **Check engine light was on and limp mode. **
- **Reprogram throttle body/PCM**
- **GDI service**
- **Replace throttle pedal position sensor**
- **GDI Kit.**
- **Throttle Body**
- **Throttle Pedal & Sensor**
- **Body Control Module. **
- **Replace throttle pedal position sensor**
- **Program vehicle with dealer programming**
- **Reprogram Throttle body/PCM**
- **GDI service.**
- **Oil change**
- **Parts $4418.91**
- **Labor 754.00**
- **Total $6,291.79**
- **Recommendations:**
- Rear brakes minimum specs 10% and require replacement
- **Replace throttle body and reprogramming**
- 2 front tires 235-40-19 Bridgestones
- **2018-04-21. 13,137 mi.**
- **Vehicle shuts off randomly**
- **Diagnose ECU**
- **"When provided an estimate to replace suspect ECU, customer declined further repairs."**
- **$1250.00 to give a diagnosis!**

Thoughts:
I have ordered a Foxwell NT530 to try to clear the codes and monitor what is going on.
I have watched several Bamford Rose videos on YouTube and he says 9 out of 10 times the issue is the Lambda sensor. Others indicate that given the car's age it could be one or more bad coil packs/spark plugs.
I feel like all of the prior work did not address the real issue and was probably unnecessary.
I want to avoid wasting money and fix whatever is the real problem.

One last thing, the clutch was replaced with a new factory clutch relatively because a guy who did not know how to drive the car burned up the original clutch in transport. A long story not worth telling here.

So, I would be very grateful for the advice/input of this community. I love the car and am hoping for a positive experience. Off to a bit of a rocky start...

The help will be genuinely appreciated!

 

Re-posting the maintenance history with hopefully better formatting:

2023-01-27 17,087 mi.

- Spare key stopped working
- **Check engine light came on and limp mode.**
- **Added stabilant 22 to throttle body and throttle pedal connectors. **
- **Cleared codes, drove 61 miles. **
- **Working properly**.
- Perform 1/3 year service.
- Changed oil
- Changed brake fluid.
- replaced FOB battery.
- $2,607.71 Total

2022-07-20. 17,033 mi
- Inspection

2021-08-09
- Paint and clear guard front bumper.

2019-11-04 16,630 mi.
- **CEL is on and the engine will not exceed 2K rpm. **
- **Scanned faults:**
- **P2135**
- **P2106**
- **Found baggy connection at throttle pedal**
- **Corrected throttle pedal connections.**
- **Performed test drive and no faults present. **
- Installed thermostat.
- Installed coolant.

2019--06-23
- Replaced battery.

2019-06-13
- Oil Filter, sump plug, and seal.
- Total $65.16

**2018-09-06. 14,404 mi.**
- **Engine is staying in limp mode even after reset. **
- **Scanned fault codes. Throttle communication faults present. [DOES NOT SAY WHAT THEY ARE]**
- **Installed Spanish Oak M****odule.**
- **"Checked throttle body and throttle pedal wiring. Ran complete wire overlays from the throttle body and throttle pedal to the engine control module. Condition still present. Contact AM aftersales. **
- **"Determined MOST LIKELY [not sure] Body Module or CEM was replaced. Per Fault tracing and AM Aftersales Technician Recommendation. Replaced the Engine Control Module [Does he mean Spanish Oak Module???]. Programmed to vehicle. Road tested 30 plus miles. Fault Codes did not return. **

2018-08-15
- XPEL applied to hood, mirrors, bumper, fender, lights

2018-07-23 13,619 mi.
- New tires.
- Front 34
- Rear 36

2018-05-18. 13,148 mi.
- **Vehicle runs rough and CEL is on and it is not accelerating.**
- **Check engine light was on and limp mode. **
- **Reprogram throttle body/PCM**
- **GDI service**
- **Replace throttle pedal position sensor**
- **GDI Kit.**
- **Throttle Body**
- **Throttle Pedal & Sensor**
- **Body Control Module. **
- **Replace throttle pedal position sensor**
- **Program vehicle with dealer programming**
- **Reprogram Throttle body/PCM**
- **GDI service.**
- **Oil change**
- **Parts $4418.91**
- **Labor 754.00**
- **Total $6,291.79**
- **Recommendations:**
- Rear brakes minimum specs 10% and require replacement
- **Replace throttle body and reprogramming**
- 2 front tires 235-40-19 Bridgestones

**2018-04-21. 13,137 mi.**
- **Vehicle shuts off randomly**
- **Diagnose ECU**
- **"When provided an estimate to replace suspect ECU, customer declined further repairs."**
- **$1250.00 to give a diagnosis!**

 

I’ve had one limp mode alert with my 4.7 which turned out to be a bad throttle body. The electronics can screw up the butterfly operation, new units can also be faulty right out of the box. Looks like some investigation in that regard has already been done for you.

Where are you located? You could use a recommendation for a good Aston mechanic.

 

I am in Dallas, Texas. Again, all constructive input is welcome!

Thanks

 

I have a couple thoughts they may be bad but it’s a start. Replace the battery, the O2 sensors, plugs and probably the coil packs. Also see if you are need to have the throttle controller replaced. I don’t know the correct name but it was a factory recall. Also change all the fluids. Also look for dry rot of hoses.
before you have a stroke on the costs go online to all the sites for places to buy the stuff you need much cheaper. Example Redline MT-LV transmission oil is 1/3 the cost of the recommended Castrol. NKG O2 sensors are OEM so look around you will find them cheaper. Sites like this will help you a ton.
Just some thoughts.

 

Thank you, Argus. I would be grateful if you and others would suggest sites I should visit to buy parts. What vendors do you like?

Thanks again.

 

Scuderia Parts, Aston Bits, and Red Pants are the major Aston Martin discounters online.

 

Check out Pistonheads for their Aston Martin Alternative Parts sticky at the top of AM forum.

 

To all who replied, thank you!

 

The idea of replacing the battery; seconded. Many high performance vehicles, particularly Gaydon Astons, thrash the poor battery and the electronics have zero tolerance to low voltage. Forum members frequently post tails of cars throwing the strangest codes in the oddest modules which are all solved with new battery.

This may not be your specific problem, but it will prevent the car from throwing other odd codes that might distract from finding the real culprit.

I followed the sage advice from this forum and bought a high quality battery float charger and the car is plugged in as soon as it reaches my garage. I suggest you do likewise after the battery change.

If you want to do the battery swap, look at the Redpants instructions. It will be your introduction to some of the odd design decisions made by AM to annoy mechanics! Could they just have made the clamp half an inch shorter?

Philip

 

Thank you, Phil, will do!

 

Agree with not wasting $$
My thought, check the Battery. I've replaced mine every 3 years if it shows the slightest weakness. The last time it was a free replacement with the battery warranty at Sams. Get the Foxwell and learn how to use it. Mine has been a great tool. And consider replacing the coils if there is any indication you have a bad one.

 

Thanks. I have a Foxwell, but I don’t really know how to use it. What is a good resource to learn how to use the Foxwell? For example, I see it provides all kinds of data, but I don’t know what the data should be so I don’t know how to interpret it.

I just watched the Redpants video on battery replacement. I also went to the Redpants store to maybe buy a battery and there were none in stock. They seemed very expensive. Is the battery typically $500-700?

 

The batteries are more expensive than average cars bc it’s almost twice the size of the average one. I forgot where I bought mine but it was around $250-300

Edwin

 

I think I paid around $200-235 for my last battery. If you haven't had it tested take it out and get it done. There are places that will do it free. If I were you, and did not know the history of the battery, I'd probably replace it as good preventative maintenance. As for the foxwell, don't be afraid of it. I was lucky enough to find a couple of Youtube vids to help.