Yes, the plug in the center of the console is a pain in the a** It seems to be a design error because the release clip is on top :-) Good Job

 

I appreciate the information and especially the video that explains how to do it.

As for the system, there is a link above to Naviks - https://naviks.com/c-1149762-carplay-android-auto.html

then the DIY video is from GTA https://www.gtacarkits.com/product/w...age-2018-2023/

Naviks system costs $925, GTA is $600. I don't mind spending more if there is a reason to but with GTA providing the DIY video and being $325 less, is there a reason to pick Navik's? Best I can tell they do the same thing.

 

I have a Naviks system for front and rear cameras on my 2007 Vantage. Not familiar with GTA, however research their track records. How long is the warranty on each? Try and find out their respective failure rates. Then make a decision.

 

Install at your own risk, what a great sales tool.

 

I recently installed the Smart Tuning module in my 2017 DB11.
So far has been working great.
They have been quite good with support and responding to my questions, but it did not come with any installation instructions. I did get an email with some screenshots of how to take apart some of the interior bits along with a few suggestions on things to be careful with. Also had to make some changes to the system settings to get the system to work, which they did send me all that information just not upfront.

 

The Naviks audio says it goes to AUX directly but the GTA says it goes over Bluetooth. Not use how accurate the videos are but I am looking to get one of these and would prefer AUX direct audio vs a Bluetooth audio experience…

 

Thank you for this, makes sense & I agree. I am still not 100% on everything but here's what I think -

From looking at these further, while they both say they are wired/unwired systems, from what I understand you are right, the GTA can be wire connected but the sound only goes through Bluetooth. In addition the GTA installation video shows at 12:20 & 15:10 the new USB cord coming out of the bottom of the console on the passenger side or you can create a new hole in the center console to have it come out there. I would also prefer the direct connection most of the time & would rather not adding another USB, especially coming out of the console on the side.

As you said the Naviks system says - Codes the vehicle to enable the OEM AUX input allowing direct audio with no lag, making installation easier eliminating the need to run wires in the center console and take up USB ports with USB TO AUX adapters.

Here's a good GTA installation video, expect it will help regardless of what system someone decides on

-

 

The Merc system in your car has way better audio over Bluetooth than aux in case that is important to you. Hence one of the reasons the dealer fit system changed from aux to Bluetooth.

 

From searching on this I haven't seen anything that says Bluetooth can ever be "way better" than direct wired, in fact the opposite seems to be true, the very best Bluetooth isn't as good as wired. With the cheapest system being the Bluetooth audio, no wire connection, hard to see that this wasn't part of the reason the dealer system was chosen this way. I think there's a decent chance I won't be able to tell the difference but also can't see much of a reason to not pick the system with the best options. Best options being I can connect the wire or use Bluetooth.

Bluetooth Audio vs Wired Audio Link

 

Depends on the implementation. There’s a thread either on here or Pistonheads about this topic with regard to AM6 cars. From memory the aux connection bypasses something or other causing poorer sound.

 

I appreciate the reply and if you come across the information I am interested seeing it. It's hard to do much with "a guy on the internet remembers reading something from someone that for some reason Bluetooth is better than a direct connection."

I'll probably buy the Naviks as it lets you connect either way and from what I understand it will be a little easier to install and I won't end up with the direct connect sticking out of the side of console.

 

Search is useful.

“For me, the problem is the other way since how I use the system is non-standard: The IDCore is connected to the car audio via AUX. The AUX is analogue and bypasses the cars' DSP, so audio played through the CarPlay doesn't get the processing that playing digitally through the media interface does. Sometimes, depending on when the phone is plugged in, the phone will connect Bluetooth audio to the IDCore and lose the Media Interface connection.

I still connect the phone to the USB/Media interface, and play audio as normal. It also means the phone has power. This, however, misses any audio coming from the CarPlay (Waze directions, messages, etc.) No big deal for me and I much rather have the audio I paid for.

Hence the question about the AI unit.”

 

You said above that audio through Bluetooth is better than aux but then posted someone that says he connects audio through the existing digital USB/Media interface, not using Bluetooth for his audio at all and skipping the new Carplay module completely for audio. As he said this gives the best possible audio (digital direct) but then he gets no sound through the Carplay.

Everything I have seen says that for better audio quality a direct wired, analog connection is better than a Bluetooth connection.

 

Yes he does this because the sound through AUX is not very good and the CarPlay system he got unfortunately uses AUX. Get one that uses Bluetooth as it is designed for audio in the Merc system and has DSP, I.e. it is digital and AUX is analogue. You then also avoid all the other messy problems.

 

Guy bought a system without Bluetooth and this somehow proves that Bluetooth is better than aux. I fully understand what I am dealing with, if you come up with proof of anything go ahead and post it, otherwise this is a waste of time. Thanks.