Bentley From the original 3 Litre to the current Continental GT and Mulsanne

Fuse/Relay Panel in Trunk CGT 10 Speed

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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 10:15 AM
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Fuse/Relay Panel in Trunk CGT 10 Speed

Has anyone removed/replaced the fuse panel to remove the Main (left) battery. The panel is enclosed in black plastic box attached to aluminum mounting bracket. Why are the relays upside down? I got a GT Speed and a GTC, neither came with Bentley issued Service Book. I pressed issue to get a Book.
What is proper sequence to replace 3 elements. After mounting bracket and box I could not put panel into box due to no clearance. I did not want to force/damage anything. I am now going to 1st mount alum bracket then try to attach the box with panel inside. Any suggestions appreciated. JimB
 
Old Jan 29, 2017 | 04:53 AM
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....by trial and error it is about done...for those who want to give this job a try, it is doable...
what I found that works is to assemble the three (3) pieces. You are considerably restricted because the fuse panel only can extend not too far because it is attached to the large wire harness. I wrapped the wire group in back of panel wire electric tape to make easier. First, the plastic box mounted onto the aluminum bracket and rotate up almost into place, then carefully press the fuse panel into box and fix in place with the three Torq 20 screws. That is where I am now. The lower 10mm nut on aluminum bracket is easy, but I didn't tighten all way in order to have little wiggle room on the two (2) 10mm nuts that I have yet to attach.
Taking a break now, those final two nuts are a little difficult to get at...
 
Old Jan 29, 2017 | 04:30 PM
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Sunday Jan 29 2017
Got the fuse/relay panel. black plastic box (panel enclosure) and aluminum bracket all installed. Sequence: Mounted box on slide fasteners of alum bracket. The alum bracket fixed by 3 (10mm) nuts, one below towards front of car. Two hidden ones above box towards you, seen through the vented black trunk moulding. Now here is where I previously got hung up. There does not seem to be enough clearance to put the fuse panel into box. So I backed off and disassembled to try different approach (a mistake) All that had to be done was to bend the flexible plastic box a little and fuse panel goes in. Care has to be taken to tuck wires in so panel fits in proper. Then fix in with 3 Torq (20) screws. I would say I spent a total of 8 hours over few days figureing this out by trial and error. Now I believe I could replicate r/r the fuse relay panel in 30 minutes. I hope my experience saves you all time in doing it yourself.
 
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:43 AM
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Thumbs up

Just read this and a big thank you! ...I've added it to my list of things to note in case of battery removal, which I feel is imminent!!
 
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 10:09 AM
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....you are welcome...another caution...there is other valuable information and pictures on the other battery thread, however, some indicate it is an easy job...not so, especially for someone never done before. I can speak only about a 2010 Speed. It is not possible to remove Main Battery (Left) without removing fuse/relay panel and box (enclosure). I tied the fuse panel up out of the way. Now removal of 60 pound battery is a challenge because it is tucked under the fender and you are bending over awkward (how to get bad back strain)
The easy way, if you can, is to get in trunk, then lift it out. At my age (85) I opted to enlist aid of young friend who easily lifted old and replaced with new....good luck JimB
 
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 12:32 PM
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....done...I think...ok the rehooking up of the large L shape cable terminal to positive post and the black cable to top rear, the medium size black cable (top most of 4), the 2 larger cables (make sure to previously mark to get which is upper) and the bottom red cable should take ten (10) minutes...except I forgot to first hook up the 2 small red wires and connecting device (on top right side of L shape terminal) The connecting device is tricky, not easy to disconnect or reconnect)....so...I removed again all cables and L cable terminal to get at the connecting device more easy and got it connected....more learning proper sequence....all took 1/2 hour...not 10 minutes it should....now going downstairs with key to hopefully start her up and see about all the computer devices that have to redo or whatever you call it...on other thread I see suggestions on windows and seat....stay tuned...JimB
 
Old Jan 30, 2017 | 05:29 PM
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....started great, great satisfaction in 95% completion of a difficult procedure. Difficult because it was all trial and error and trying to be super cautious not to screw up too bad. For example, just removing the clamp from neg post on Starter bat (right side) I didn't want to just pry it off so I dug out my 20yr old bat post puller (most young folks in hardware stores never heard of this tool) I had to adapt the tool because it was too long. It popped the clamp right off easy. On the positive post of the main bat, after loosening nut, could not use puller due to space. So after taking off all cables (and marking) It would not come off,
so that took me an hour before I decided to use little gentle persuasion, that did it, just little left/right pressure. Anyhow, now the new Diehard (Sears) $175 reads 12.79V and my original Starter Bat reads 12.80V (never been charged) She started up, sounds great, I am delighted, learned a lot, tested my patience, the trunk now opens and locks, same with doors, tomorrow I'll take out for a spin and see if the warning lights go out. The rear 1/4 windows only go up 75%, cross that bridge tomorrow...JimB
 
Old Jan 31, 2017 | 06:32 PM
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....Took 10Speed 100 miles down Coast Road (RT1)...car feels and runs great...just like said on other threads, all the red flags and signals went away...I can't even guess how the clock reverted to right time since both batterys were disconnected 2 weeks...even the windows now work...Both "Johnny" and "Zaos" carried me through with their generous help...JimB
 
Old Feb 1, 2017 | 11:24 AM
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Congrats, great news!

Originally Posted by jim2331
I can't even guess how the clock reverted to right time since both batteries were disconnected 2 weeks
GPS sync for time.
 
Old Feb 2, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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....does anyone know reason the relay panel in trunk is upside down...mine and every other picture the same way....
 
Old Sep 13, 2017 | 01:32 PM
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Please HELP!!!

Have 2006 Bentley Flying Spur, won't pass Smog in Nevada. Took it to Bentley. They suggested replacing Secondary Air Injection Pump (3W0131083B), Secondary Air Pump Fuse (N10251904)(50 Amp), and Secondary Air Pump Relay (4H0951253) relay has the number 644 on it. We replaced the the pump and the Check Engine Light came back on. Unfortunately, we can not find out or figure out where either the Fuse or Relay go. Can someone please help me with this? Thanks a million in advance.
 
Old Sep 14, 2017 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by RickTheDirector
Please HELP!!!

Have 2006 Bentley Flying Spur, won't pass Smog in Nevada. Took it to Bentley. They suggested replacing Secondary Air Injection Pump (3W0131083B), Secondary Air Pump Fuse (N10251904)(50 Amp), and Secondary Air Pump Relay (4H0951253) relay has the number 644 on it. We replaced the the pump and the Check Engine Light came back on. Unfortunately, we can not find out or figure out where either the Fuse or Relay go. Can someone please help me with this? Thanks a million in advance.
HI Rick,


I believe the relay and fuses are located under the passenger side of the engine bay, next to the ECU.

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Old Sep 14, 2017 | 10:06 PM
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LilO1980 man thank you so much. That's exactly what we needed. Much appreciated.
 
Old Sep 19, 2017 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RickTheDirector
LilO1980 man thank you so much. That's exactly what we needed. Much appreciated.
No problem. Hope you can get your problem fixed.

FYI to others, you can access the engine fuse box without removing the wiper or plastic plenum cover. You just need to loosen the cover and lift it up.
 
Old Sep 5, 2020 | 11:14 PM
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engine fuse box

Originally Posted by lilo1980
No problem. Hope you can get your problem fixed.

FYI to others, you can access the engine fuse box without removing the wiper or plastic plenum cover. You just need to loosen the cover and lift it up.
Lilo hi, is the LOCATION of the engine fuse box the same for 2006 Continental GT/US Version? Thanks millions
 


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