Bentley From the original 3 Litre to the current Continental GT and Mulsanne

Engine out job

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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 05:31 AM
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Engine out job

Hi, my n249 located on top of gearbox has failed. While running vcds output tests one of n249 does not make clicking sound. I have no vacuum leak as tested by smoke machine.
Is there no other way to bypass n249 valve as it's stuck open.

What else you would recommend to replace while engine out?

Thank you
 
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 09:43 AM
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Stuck open would equate to loss of power, this is the case? Bypassing still requires engine out. Bypass would be hard on the turbos. Hard de-acceleration after wide open throttle creates spurious boost pressure which needs to be vented to the atmosphere.

Suggested aspects to consider with engine out. Replacement of Lambda sensors. Evaluate condition of flexible wire loom covering for disintegration. PCV pipes are often brittle, time to fix. Serpentine belt replacement, consider replacement of idler pulleys and tensioner. Check the starter, load and resistance test. Motor mount condition evaluation. Front-end bushings that are old, easier to fix now. Replace plastic vacuum lines with metal. Do not use radiator worm clamps use oiniker, or fuel injector clamps. There are probably other opinions out there.
Regards,
Keep us posted.

PS. Exhaust temperature sensors bank 1 and bank 2, worth evaluating changing out.
 

Last edited by 1eapplebaum; Sep 7, 2018 at 07:45 PM.
Old Sep 9, 2018 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1eapplebaum
Stuck open would equate to loss of power, this is the case? Bypassing still requires engine out. Bypass would be hard on the turbos. Hard de-acceleration after wide open throttle creates spurious boost pressure which needs to be vented to the atmosphere.

Suggested aspects to consider with engine out. Replacement of Lambda sensors. Evaluate condition of flexible wire loom covering for disintegration. PCV pipes are often brittle, time to fix. Serpentine belt replacement, consider replacement of idler pulleys and tensioner. Check the starter, load and resistance test. Motor mount condition evaluation. Front-end bushings that are old, easier to fix now. Replace plastic vacuum lines with metal. Do not use radiator worm clamps use oiniker, or fuel injector clamps. There are probably other opinions out there.
Regards,
Keep us posted.

PS. Exhaust temperature sensors bank 1 and bank 2, worth evaluating changing out.
I have no power, sometimes i get error p1556 that boost too low, but very strange that no more errors coming up. No MIL. It's looks like normal driving until you sit in another Bentley abd feel it's power. Mine looks like turbos are not working.

Thank you for advice. Will order most solenoids to replace at same time. I am planning on replacing n75 too. I noticed at this vehicle even n75 can not be replaced without taking engine out.
 
Old Sep 9, 2018 | 07:56 AM
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Typically the various sensors that control boost should throw codes if defective.

Obviously, changing parts without verification is risky, taking the engine out two times is not fun. Before removing the engine might I suggest more analysis. I doubt it's a massive vacume leak, there are aggressive codes for this situation.

When a diverter valve diaphragm fails this can cause the turbos to not pressurize. However, the chances of both diverter valve diaphragms failing at the same time is unusual with no codes.

Look on the Audi and Volkswagen forums regarding lack of turbo boost. The technology and concepts are similar.
 
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