Stalling 30 sec after start
#16
01-31-2019, 08:35 AM
There are 2 fuel pump relays in the trunk. Switch around posiion of relays. See if this changes things. With engine out this isn't possible, so pull relays and check per test meter. One fuel pump relay is primary, start up and drive. The other is the auxiliary pump relay during high load and boost.
Also, check vacuum pump for operation left wheel well.
While the engine is out check all wire loom covers, usually brittle and possible exposed wires. The PCV pipes to intake manifold are usually brittle and break. Major vacume leak area when they break. Repair with 3/8 transmission rubber hose line.
Also, check vacuum pump for operation left wheel well.
While the engine is out check all wire loom covers, usually brittle and possible exposed wires. The PCV pipes to intake manifold are usually brittle and break. Major vacume leak area when they break. Repair with 3/8 transmission rubber hose line.
#17
01-31-2019, 10:14 AM
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mississauga, Toronto
Age: 34
Posts: 15
Rep Power: 0 
Changed all the plugs, the ones under the intake mani were still oem and someone put delcos in the rest of the cylinders lol
Swapped the fuel pump relays just waiting on the intake manifold gasket to put it back together. Do I need to do a throttlebody relearn too?
Swapped the fuel pump relays just waiting on the intake manifold gasket to put it back together. Do I need to do a throttlebody relearn too?
#19
01-31-2019, 11:25 AM
It still perplexes me that no class action was started after they failed to recall this issue. Although it’s not a safety issue, to be the original owner of one of these and have to pay 4 to 8 thousand dollars once it is out of warranty on a $220,000 to $280,000 car new is mind blowing. And to just replace them with the same rubber lines is ludicrous.
#20
02-01-2019, 03:43 AM
Possibility a leaaking vacuum diaphragm on one of the turbocharger dump valves? These have been known to fail. Source of vacuum noise just before cutting out?
Perhaps somebody can recommend a test procedure or verify plausibility.
Perhaps somebody can recommend a test procedure or verify plausibility.
#21
02-01-2019, 09:11 AM
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mississauga, Toronto
Age: 34
Posts: 15
Rep Power: 0 I still have permenant codes for P3019 exhaust flap
P0071 ambient temp sensor
if I keep the car running playing with the throttle I get codes
P2279 leak in air intake system and P2082 EGT bank 2 sensor 1 and it backfires like crazy
#22
02-01-2019, 10:12 AM
Floated the idea of the wastegate diaphragm just in case. The new info is helpful.
Exhaust flap: At the rear of the car on the muffler right and left side are exhaust flaps which are vacuum operated. The vacuum lines go into a plastic vacuum canister. Check vacuum at the line and vacuum test the canister with the appropriate gauge . Can always do a smoke test. Surprising if this system is causing this much trouble. Still have to cross it off the troubleshooting list.
The exhaust temperature sensor being out of range can cause a poor running condition. Furthermore this sensor when bad can compromise a catalytic converter. The sensor having a brown enclosure is the old style they inevitably fail. Replacing them is either a current necessity or will be. The Replacements are black.
The ambient temperature sensor might cause bad running performance? Maybe it's just the HVAC control. All said worthy of changing?
Exhaust flap: At the rear of the car on the muffler right and left side are exhaust flaps which are vacuum operated. The vacuum lines go into a plastic vacuum canister. Check vacuum at the line and vacuum test the canister with the appropriate gauge . Can always do a smoke test. Surprising if this system is causing this much trouble. Still have to cross it off the troubleshooting list.
The exhaust temperature sensor being out of range can cause a poor running condition. Furthermore this sensor when bad can compromise a catalytic converter. The sensor having a brown enclosure is the old style they inevitably fail. Replacing them is either a current necessity or will be. The Replacements are black.
The ambient temperature sensor might cause bad running performance? Maybe it's just the HVAC control. All said worthy of changing?
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; 02-01-2019 at 11:18 AM.
#23
02-08-2019, 01:56 PM
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mississauga, Toronto
Age: 34
Posts: 15
Rep Power: 0 Replaced egt sensor, plugged in ambient temp sensor and checked all vacuum lines still stalls 30 sec after start no matter what unless you press the gas. Sometimes it will pop and buck and catch but then it will last another 20-30sec and stall
Last edited by c0ke; 02-08-2019 at 01:59 PM.
#24
02-08-2019, 04:06 PM
Please check the throttle position sensor for proper function.
Possible water infiltration below the windshield where the ECU's are? Slow water draining can damage ECU's or simply corrode the (ECU) terminals. A quick evaluation of this area is recommended.
Possible water infiltration below the windshield where the ECU's are? Slow water draining can damage ECU's or simply corrode the (ECU) terminals. A quick evaluation of this area is recommended.
#26
02-08-2019, 05:45 PM
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mississauga, Toronto
Age: 34
Posts: 15
Rep Power: 0 Ecu plugs are mint we checked them right away. I just got it to run fine without the stalling by removing the fuel pump relays and jumping direct power. I think the FPR diaphram is the vacuum leak I’m hearing and if I’m correct what I did bypassed that so I ordered a FPR. Lets pray that works
#28
02-08-2019, 06:20 PM
Just checking. The two 8 mm lines that run behind the engine to the turbo solenoids, (vacuum supply to the infamous above transmission control modules) were they replaced? Reason for asking is I believe they T off to a small 1/8" vacuum line that is part of the FPR. These two lines and the T are buried behind the abyss below the rack and pinion. They become very fragile and break.
#29
02-11-2019, 07:19 AM
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Mississauga, Toronto
Age: 34
Posts: 15
Rep Power: 0
Yes they were replaced, we put in the new FPR and it didn't solve it. Still trying to figure it out now thinking it needs an ECU. The fuel pump relay isn't receiving a full 12v ground to start it from the ecu, however if we jump it then it works fine and if you remove the jumper wire after it switches pumped the 10v the ecu is sending is still enough to keep it running just not enough to swap it over. Tried running a jumper wire from the ecu pin direct to the relay and that didn't work either, resistance and continuity on the oem wire seems fine. Have you ever seen anything like that?
Last edited by c0ke; 02-11-2019 at 07:23 AM.
#30
02-11-2019, 08:29 AM
Firstly commendations. Not an easy problem to find. Have encountered similar situations on different marques.
If the ECU line is just a 12 volt supply perhaps it can be bypassed. Than permanently jumped to the appropriate circuit. However, if it's a control reference I don't see how that can be done? There are two relays one for normal load and one for high load. Most likely the ECU decides which one to give 12 volts to.
There are members who have extensive electronic knowledge, Mr. Johnny Hotspur comes to mind. Perhaps he can join the conversation?
If the ECU line is just a 12 volt supply perhaps it can be bypassed. Than permanently jumped to the appropriate circuit. However, if it's a control reference I don't see how that can be done? There are two relays one for normal load and one for high load. Most likely the ECU decides which one to give 12 volts to.
There are members who have extensive electronic knowledge, Mr. Johnny Hotspur comes to mind. Perhaps he can join the conversation?