As M. BWwings Illustrated in photographs tape over the manifold opening. Also make sure to put tennis ***** or something over the Turbo down tubes once the air filter assemlies are removed. Things like to fall down there and can be catastrophic to the turbochargers.

 

YES...I snapped that pic RIGHT before I stuffed shop rags in each. A small piece of hardware falling into a turbo tube would be devastating if not caught, and if so, use a magnet probe. I have 3 or 4 of these tools on different types of wands. They have found lost/dropped hardware for me several times.

 

Did a scan this morning when I got off work.

 

Did you do this with the console out and switchpack unplugged?

Not sure why you'd run a scan if you had a lot disconnected. I can walk you through lots of this stuff, but there are faults pretty much everywhere. Also, did you do something with the steering wheel? Do you have the original 4 spoke, or did you switch to a 3 spoke. If either, I can walk you through the coding if I know what you have in the car and what you've done. Hopefully, the prev owner didn't spill coffee into the steering wheel electronics too....haha!

One red flag, don't know the recent history, but you NEED to fix (get rid of) the P0174. Lean code, in this case, bank 2 is not good on any engine but especially a boosted one. P0174 is set when the ECU maxes out (exceeds 25% rich adjustment) on how much it can adjust AFR in closed loop. It won't set a limp mode, but will set a CEL. P0174 and P0171 for Bank 1, sometimes is set BC you have a vac leak at the manifold. Even with leaking vac lines all over the place, the intake manifold will still be the richest source of vac unless there is a leak right at the manifold or a hose in very close proximity.

And, BTW, if all these faults are historical and not active, it would be good to do a global delete and start with a clean slate.

 

Actually no. I had just pulled in the garage and set my laptop up. I didn’t notice when I came back to the car ( I walked away for a few mins) no lights were on on the dash but the HVAC was illuminated. Kinda thought that was odd but I was tired and just let it finished. I cleared the codes and ran it again. Once I take the wife to pick her car up later, I’ll rerun it and stay with it this time. I think I still have the print out from Jan or Feb, I’ll look and compare the two.

Also, I still have (unfortunately) the 4 spoke steering wheel.

 

1eapplebaum, BWings and Rico.Adams I just want to thank you for the help thus far. I decided to start on getting parts for the engine out vacuum line job. Just makes sense. I ran across this while looking for a starter. That price (if it’s real) looks like a real great deal. Looked my butt off and cross reference the OEM starter Bosch one. What are other parts that I should be looking into also? Thanks again!!

 

Here is an image of the part number off a Bentley starter. That would be wonderful if $99 is the magic number for a Bentley starter.

Should you pull the trigger on the engine out may I suggest changing the Lambda / oxygen sensors.

Would you be kind enough to share with us why you believe the engine needs to come out? LOL we don't want you working 7 days a week for the rest of your life.😉

 

I got that Bosch number from an old YouTube post Jason in New York gave someone as an alternative to buying a OEM one and paying the Bentley tax.

I only seen one post saying you don’t have to take the engine out but it was for a VW Pheaton. With having a turbo and drop pipe blocking the starter I don’t see any other way. By no means am I a mechanic so please help me out if it is a way. Might as well change everything I can since it has to come out to do the vacuum lines. And good looking on the O2 sensors!

 

Sorry to say but engine out on the starter.

One thing to investigate when the engine is out are the engine subframe mounts. The front ones tend to crack. This is a subtle deterioration. The fronts are two units each side one installed from the top and then a second one pressed in from the bottom. Essentially two bushings pressed together on the front. They can only be replaced with the cradle out of the car. These bushing type were used universally on Mercedes BMW Etc. They all crack with age. The rubber inside the bushing cracks. (I am not referring to the motor mounts those are different). The engine cradle subframe mounts can eventually become the source of vibration and or strange clunking noises when going from drive to reverse. The rear engine cradle subframe mounts are bigger and usually survive a lot longer. However there is a little upper and lower rubber insert in the the rear engine cradle subframe bushing that crumbles. That insert is not available. I had to 3D print mine.

 

Here's a picture of the inserts that crumble and the one example of a 3D printed replacement.

 

Can you Please send the program of the ones you printed and of course if you want payment just let me know how much. And here I am thing a friend was crazy for buying some Pursa 3D machine just to tinker around with. Just let me know what type of filament I need and any special instructions if your willing to send it.

 

An associate of mine son did this for me. He has all the configurations and would probably print the four pieces you need. He figured out all the aspects including the hardness of the printed material. He's young and trying to figure out life, be patient with him. The parts he made fit well.

Josh 608 574 5936

 

By the way if you need the part numbers for the engine cradle subframe front bushings I can pass those to you as well. The printed parts are for the engine cradle rear subframe bushing inserts. In my opinion the front engine cradle subframe bushing should be replace no matter what. The type of rubber they use is either cracked or will crack. This type of preventive maintenance doesn't get much coverage, out of sight out of mind. Cars from the early 2000s are ready for this service..