Hi all!
I’m a member on a few forums but have only just come across this one and it looks like there’s lots of advice available.
I’ve owned RR Shadows, Spirits in the past but have been researching GT ownership for the last 8 months.

There are so many pos and neg reviews to ownership. I’m looking at the sub £30k mark so either a 2005ish GTS or a 2006ish GT Mulliner.

I always do lots of homework before making a decision but this is the first car that’s scaring me a little with so many “issues”. Or are they really not that bad?

Just wondered anyone else’s advice/experience ?

Thanks in advance.

 

Provenance, make sure the vacuum lines have been serviced and repaired in metal. Since these cars are aging any engine out repairs are the most important aspects to verify. Fewer owners and good records. With regards to the vacuum lines low mileage is no guarantee that they are not going to or are already cracked. To ensure avoidance of of this engine out repair stick with 2008 +.

Things to look for. Get a complete owner's manual set, at least two sets of functioning keys, tools in the boot complete, all four corners of the air suspension stay up for a couple weeks ( difficult to confirm when buying), check brake rotors for excessive wear ie. deep ridge on the edge, most importantly try to have a vcds scan after erasing all the existing codes to see what emerges. Also check to make sure all tires have equal wear and are the same brand. When the car starts cold listen for any strange hissing vacuum leaks or air pump leaks.


Hopefully someone with vcds can erase all the codes, then do the following . On the test drive accelerate up a hill and listen for vacume pump cycling, this sound would indicate a vacuum leak. Than drive the car at different speeds including accelerate hard. During the test drive run the air conditioning as well. Check that that the airfoil deploys at speed probably 80 to a 100. Press the airfoil button while at a stop and make sure it goes up and back without trouble. In the informant system adjust the different air strut functions to make sure they work. Then perform a vcds scan which will indicate hidden issues. This is an important part of a true evaluation. Very important to erase all the vcds codes before doing the test drive. However before erasing them take note for comparison

 

Oh wow! You are a star. Thank you so much!

This is the first model Id buy that I’m not yet confident the issues (reported) out weigh the pros.

I’ve had Range Rovers and got told the same prior to purchase. “This goes. That goes. Money puts” But I’ve been lucky.

Nuts and bolts don’t scare me. I’d undertake most myself but horrors of engines out is the issue.

Obviously I’m planning on around £1k a year for a service. But I intend the car to be my daily driver.

 

The plunge is more intimidating than the swim. The GT is a fun car to own. Since it's an exotic there are always nagging issues, to be expected. Not being intimidated by a wrench or a computer facilitates ownership. This forum is comprised of talented individuals willing to spend time helping others.

 

Awesome reply “ The plunge is more intimidating than the swim”. Love that!!

Thanks so much. I’ve slowly started going back through old posts and I agree, it seems there’s a lot of knowledge and people seem very helpful.
I think I’m gonna like it here!

 

No matter the age of the vehicle try to Find a local reputable independent mechanic that has the proper scan tools to work on the vehicle it will save you a lot. I would look at the maintenance schedule to see what should have been done against the records provided to better get an estimate as to what you should expect to spend.

 

Thanks MBi. That makes a lot of sense

Other than Starter Motor, Vacuum hoses, air leaks in the suspension or holes in the GTC roof (they are the items I reckon I wouldn’t be able to fix myself)

are there many many more common problems? I appreciate every car is different and electrical gremlins will appear (but hopefully most parts are replaceable at home)

 

Something that you want to consider - this car (like many other exotics), requires engine out for the majority of accessories. Some of those are:

starter motor
O2 sensors
Cats
turbos
and many more.

Shops can charge anywhere from $4K to $10K USD for motor out work not counting the parts.

Here again, many exotics - Mid engine Ferraris, Lamborghinis, Bugattis, need engine out for basic work that would only take a few hours on mainstream cars. Veyrons, for example, need a special lift just to change the oil and only a few dealers across the country in the US have them.

If you've owned cars like these, then you'll be right at home with a Continental. If you want to maintain it smartly, especially a MY in the 15 to 20 year old range, the first repair that needs an engine out, you'll just do everything - new starter, O2 sensors, turbos (maybe), water pump, etc. Then you won't be getting hit with the $4K to $10K more than once, for a while.

 

I agree. This is why I suggested looking at the maintenance schedule and getting quotes to see the next few years an estimated cost. Also personally I would wait for pieces to drop a bit more once the new GTs are more prevalent pushing down last gen prices and get a 2012+.

 

I took in as much info on the GT as I could. Most of the forums show negative info on early GT's and it put me off. I studied the cars for 18 months and of all places bought a two owner 60k miles car from Copart in UK. Car has been on the road for the past 4 months and is superb, this past month I have had to travel Kent to Bristol 4 times and feel like a King behind the wheel despite paying peanuts for the car. On forums you tend to only read the scare stories but not with me(touch wood)!
Take your time and look at as many privatelay owned cars as you can. Best of luck.

 

Yes, very good advice. Knowing what to expect in anticipated "service" costs is valuable in assessing some of the cost of ownership. I was offering something in addition to the known and predictable service needs. None of the services anticipates a failed starter, or O2 sensor, or turbo. Even with the most extensive service at a premium cost, the starter could fail the next day. So my advice dovetailed onto yours in the hope of capturing a more comprehensive cost of ownership, and maybe some advice how to best take advantage of one unpredictable failure to perhaps avoid more unpredictable costs. It would be a shame if the starter failed and was repaired, then have something like an O2 sensor fail a month later.

Advice about reviewing past service records is excellent. With 2005 or 2006 MY they might exist. At 14/15 years old records are probably 50% to 70% likely. So, another purchasing strategy might be to hold out for a one/two owner 05/06 that might still retain records. Dealers keep records, but most of these vehicles haven't seen a dealership since warranty expired.

Great advice about the 2012 MY. My suggestion too!

 

I purchased a 2005 with 83,000 miles and it is my daily driver. I bought it from a Bentley dealership in Chicago. It had 5 reported previous owners and a full service history with no accidents. I have added over 3,000 miles since May and the car has been flawless. I, too, have read the horror stories.

This is the best advice I can give, having owned several exotic-type cars over the years. Buy one with miles. A car that is driven regularly is less likely to have problems than one that sits. Second, don’t buy it if you are worried about fixing it. If the car needs $7,000 of work in the first year, who cares? At this point, you are driving a Bentley for the price of a Chevrolet. The difference is you won’t have to deal with the depreciation that the Chevy buyer will have. Even with repairs, if needed, you would still be ahead. Third, don’t be afraid to drive it. It’s just a car. Keep the juices flowing, so to speak. Fourth, it shouldn’t matter if you are buying a Ferrari, Bentley, or Toyota, always do as much research on that particular car as possible. And if you don’t trust yourself, take it to someone who specializes in that type of vehicle and have it checked out. It’s worth the expense. Lastly, find the one that suits you the best and go for it.

My experience has been amazing! It’s a great car to drive and own. But, at the end of the day, it all depends on the individual’s mindset. I wouldn’t change my decision whether the car is good for the next 100 miles or 100,000. I would be happy to answer any specific questions regarding my experience. Best of luck!

 

As said, I would probably wait and get a 2012+ BUT don’t let the other yrs scare you. I bought a 2006 last yr and love it. I didn’t have half the advice as you just were given which should tell you this board won’t leave you hanging with whatever problem you come across with whatever yr you get. I am by no means a mechanic, I’ll change a battery, starter or alternator on something simple but a few months ago I notice my front end dipping just a little. Wanting to get ahead of it, I conquered up the courage to change my air struts. EVERYTHING I learned I learned from this forum. What was suppose to be a strut job turned into a semi complete front end job when I got done! I changed everything except for the anti roll bars. Even bought a Ross-Tech system because of the ppl here. Trust your in good hands. Just get the 2012+ tho.. more up to date lol

 

So in review. Service history, gut instinct and passion are motivating factors to buying a Bentley. With the engine out job doing as much as possible anticipating future problems is smart and financially prudent. The idea of a well- maintained car with high miles makes a lot of sense.

My neighbor spent $4,000 on a Volkswagen Tiguan engine out for a blown output seal on the crank output tail shaft. Can't think of any item on the internet that doesn't have a Horror Story.

The early models are fine. Once the vacuum lines are fixed with metal, than it's just normal operating issues. The later models are wonderful but for depreciation. The depreciation exceeds maintenance on an early model. Eventually the late models become the old models and guess what? They need virtually the same repairs. Indeed a competent independent shop that is fair eases the drama of owning a Bentley. Also willingness to delve into mechanical and electronic issues is a great learning experience. Yes a Bentley is a car and by any other name It still is a car. We could all ride bicycles and save a lot of money🤔, NOT.

 

Guys
You are awesome!! Thank you so much!
Really appreciate the time yous have taken to give me your opinion and all of it makes sence!

Im going to struggle to stretch to the 2012, but has given me the bit of confidence to go for a higher mileage (im thinking around 75k?) 2006/7 as long as the history is there! Ive read everywhere about the vacuum lines, and i think if i was selling mine, i would advertise it "that they had been changed". But i havent seen any like that yet!

Really appreciate everyones tips and advice. Im member of a couple of good forums here in UK, and made some awesome friends, but they seem to be populated more with the kind of people that take their cars straight to dealer for bulb changes etc.. Im not in that position! There are alot of comments and its frowned apon regarding "Can afford to buy it but not repair it!".. Well unfortunately thats me and im not ashamed to admit it!

But it was the same when i brought my RR Shadow at 19y/o and the following Spirit, Merc CL600 and Range Rover L322.. The model all had horror stories attached, but through lots of homework and help from forums ive managed to keep them and run them.Yes i do most of the work myself (nuts and bolts) and quite enjoy it..
I know im going to have to get an Independent or dealer to do the servicing each year (just to keep the history going) but most other things except engine out, i will have to tackle myself.

So far the wish list is:-
History, History, History
Has had the Vacuum hoses changed
Possibility of starter motor, O2 sensors, Cats, turbos
A higher more than lower mileage vehicle (ive heard this mentioned a lot, and it will be a daily driver)
Roof tears on a GTC
Air suspension holds up
3rd brake light working ok

Really appreciate everyones input and its building me with more confidence. Thank you!

Just out of interest, are we saying around 12-14mpg? Thats kinda what im expecting driving sensible. Im kinda used to that with the CL600 and past RR's
..