Can I perform a suspension calibration using my Autel MaxySis Elite scanner or do I have to use no matter what a VCDS scanner in order to perform the adaptation succesfully?
I did this calibration in my Mercedes using my Autel scanner when I replaced the front struts and worked perfectly.

 

@Rico.Adams ,
There is nothing amusing about the wood under the tires... it serves a purpose.

It just seems that a few have missed the point of the lumber under the tires, if one can fit a standard/normal size floor jack under the vehicle to jack it up, then it is not totally bottomed out, it may have looked lower, but I doubt totally bottomed out, especially since you had the charger hooked up...

One does not jack the vehicle up to place the wood under each tire, because if truly bottomed out, one could not get a floor jack under the vehicle to jack it up in the first place, one would place a 2"H X 6"W X 8"L piece at each tire, or at least the front tires, then one would drive the vehicle up onto the wood, if it is still not high enough, one would place a double stack of the same size and drive up again, now one will have clearance to get floor jacks under the vehicle on each side to get the suspension system sensor up from their bottomed out position.

As I have stated previously more then a few times, I have had this same issue with my 05 A8L W12, and with my GT, with the GT after installation of the engine and transmission, then the suspension, the bags were empty, and when I put the vehicle on the ground, it was completely bottomed out, I could not even pull the floor jack out from under the vehicle, and the suspension compressor would not turn on, because I had already had the floor jack in place, I jacked it back up and put a double stack of 2 X 6 under the drivers side tire, which then gave me some room to get the passenger side up, I did the same on the passenger side as to the wood under the tire, then by placing a floor jack on each side of the vehicle, I jacked it up off of it's bottomed out position, then the suspension compressor came on and did the rest.

Now if someone is completely bottomed out and wants to try the output test via Ross-Tech VCDS on the suspension control module, that would also be possible, but I didn't have mine with me at that moment.

My A8L W12 acted the same way after I installed all new front suspension parts, eventhough it was in jack mode, it didn't matter, because I has to remove the air feed lines from each front strut to collapse them for the work being performed, well when I lowered the lift, the vehicle was totally bottomed out, even with jack mode off, it would not lift, no running of the suspension compressor either, I lifted the lift a few inches to bring the body up a bit, and the system kicked on and filled the air suspension.

Johnny

 

​@Rico.Adams ,
As to my correction of your typo of spanner vs. scanner, I was just trying to help, so as to stop the question of why one would use a wrench on an airbag.

As to this thread, I am doing the same, being helpful.

Johnny

 

I had the same problem, I replaced the two new front air shock absorbers, and the new air compressor, and now the front of the nose is completely bottoming out, the compressor won't work, I studied it for so long that I was going crazy

 

The two rear air suspensions also bottomed out I think,But higher than front

 

Hi,
My car hasn't started for a year because the pneumatic shock absorber had a leak. I recently replaced it with a new shock absorber and air compressor, but they are not working properly,I think there is no pressure in the tank and the pressure in the air compressor is not enough to raise the four shock absorbers from the minimum, should I fill the tank with at least 16bar of helium as I did with the Porsche to make the system work properly？

 

​​​​​​Hello @Recher123321 ,
I merged your two accounts into one.

As to your suspension issues, have you lifted the vehicle with floor jacks, or lift, to the proper height to get the vehicle above the bottomed out position, as already stated, when the vehicle is totally bottomed out, as yours is, because you removed the air line, and the vehicle has been sitting for a year, the compressor will not run.

Do you have Ross-Tech VCDS to do output tests, have you checked the voltage and health of both batteries, checked the compressor relay ?

Your comment of not enough pressure in the compressor itself is confusing, if the compressor is not running at all, then there is or there will be no pressure in the accumulator tank, and the compressor has no pressure, as it is not running, or are you saying that the compressor is running, but is weak ?

We need more details to help.

Johnny

 

Hi,
thanks for your reply,I was try use VCDS to let pump work,but it showed me 01437 and 01577, one is not learned one is Overheat protection, and I try use vcds to fix 01437 but not successful,so I try use test system to let pump work and up the car,but the pump only can work maybe 2 minutes and will stop show the code 01577,(turn off due to over temp),and vcds showed the pressure only have 5.6bar,when I use test system to let pump work, I'll hear the right front shock Clarak noise , the pump is working but 4 air suspension not have any reaction,2 minutes later the pump will stop work due overtemp

 

@Recher123321 ,
If the compressor is shutting off after only 2 minutes, and it only builds 5.6 bar, I have to ask, did you install a brand new compressor, or a used one, if new, what brand ?

I am not at my VCDS right now, but is that 5.6 bar in the accumulator tank, or is it another reading, I can not recall right at this moment which reading is which, or if there are different readings... sorry.

The compressor should be able to run longer, is the compressor noisy, or shaking in it's mounting bracket ?

Have you checked the plugs at the compressor / valve block for any corrosion, is it possible that the valve block is not opening ports properly to allow the air to go to it's proper destination, kind of like a closed valve, therefore the compressor is pumping against a dead head and overheating in just 2 minutes.

How is the charge on the house battery, large left side ?

Johnny

 

Hi
the air compressor is new,I bought it form eBay, there is the link

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185256251472?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=pfWVgpugSlK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=aibugi6ptn i&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


The battery should be fine I think, because every time I test the air suspension I will start the car, the big battery is 12.6V when I start the car the battery will be 13.7V.I knew that when Porsche replaced the air compressor it needed to fill the tank with 16bar of nitrogen to make the system work properly, but I had never heard of Bentley, Do they work the same way? There's not enough pressure in the air tank so we need outside intervention?

 

@Recher123321 ,
Battery voltage is a little low, a good voltage would be 13 volts + without the engine running, my new battery registered 13.4 volts, and 14.1 when engine is running, but I am not sure that is your issue at this moment, as you said, you have the engine running, and you measure 13.7 volts, that if fine, so the issue is either power + positive, or ground - negative to the compressor, such as, a burnt compressor relay in the boot not giving a good clean full power connection, is the relay hot to the touch, I know when the engine is running it is hard to hear the compressor, so, can you put say a 10 amp battery charger on the house battery and activate the compressor through output test to listen to it without the engine running, so you can hear if it it nice smooth high speed running sound, or slow shaking under powered kind of sound, if you have ever heard both, you will know the difference, the next issue could be the valve block not letting full pressure through to the accumulator, but I have doubts about that some what, especially when you get a 5.6 bar reading, that leads me to the compressor or power issue, as the compressor should have no issue at all filling the accumulator to 16+ bar, I have done it many times with my GT, 05 A8L W12, and 04 A8L 4.2, and no, non of these use nitrogen to fill the system, and as there is no external port to fill from, it would be hard to do, as any time any line is removed from the valve block, the air in said line is depleted.

Johnny

 

Hi,
I already try use vcds let pump work,and the pump is working and can push 16 bar to air tank(that’s good) but when I use vcds push air to front or rear suspension the bar only 7 bar,and have one more interesting thing,when I turn off the engine I'll hear a lot of deflating sounds sent out to the left front air shock absorber, and I suspect they're coming from the tank
yes,the air pump can push 16 bar to air tank

 

1. what measuring blocks you check to confirm the preassure? would like to make sure we are on the same page with checking the preasure in the tank, absorbers etc.
2. trying to understand you - you say "when i use vcds push air to front or rear" - this is interesting - the output tests are sequential so you can not force to pump front or rear as you wish, it goes thru sequence. what you are doing actually?

 

I will share the link,
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Level_Control_Bleeding/Charging
you can choose which one you want charging

 

@Recher123321 ,
Ok, thank you for clearing that up, 16 bar at the accumulator is great !

It certainly appears to me that you have a leak, as the compressor fills the accumulator to 16 bar, and the accumulator will not be involved in filling or maintaining pressure in all of the struts unless the pressure between the accumulator and each strut is within 3 bars of each other, the sound of air you hear on the left front is no good, no air vents from any of the struts ever, the air vents for lowering of the vehicle at the rear of the vehicle on the compressor valve block assembly and it's exhaust solenoid.

You have a leak, that is why the vehicle will not raise up, on the compressor keeps overheating.

Which front strut did you replace ?

Johnny