Hope someone can help with a 2005 Flying Spur. We have been modifying it for the last 6 months, huge job which involved moving all of the electrics and loom from the rear of the car and moving it to the front foot wells out the way while we worked on the rear of the car. Fuse box stayed in place but all wiring was pulled forward and un-plugged

We have completed the job now and just last week put all the wiring back, plugged the majority or parts back in apart from door locks, sun roof, air bags, but these wont be a problem, and we cant get the ignition to come on.


At first we had a few lights on the dash and we could take the hand brake off, and get the key out of the ignition ( this had been left in by mistake when the car was stripped) but the car wouldn't start and nothing would work. Strange that we can hear what seems to be an electric water pump running in the engine bay constantly.


I found 1 broken cable in the rear by the fuse box which I repaired, then with 2 new batteries everything worked and the car started. When the ignition was turned off, again nothing worked until the batteries were disconnected and out back on, then again we could start the car. This worked just the 2 times and since that nothing has worked again and we cant get the ignition to work.


I had a diagnostics guy come over and it was coming up with there is an aerial missing ( this may be because we no longer have the standard back window so some of the aerials wont work) and there is something wrong with terminal 50 and the ignition switch. We haven't touched the ignition switch, dash board or engine, literally only the rear end of the car so this is a strange one! Everything has been plugged back in correctly and was tagged before it was taken apart so nothing got mixed up.


I have checked the looms for broken cables and cant find anything obvious but since the car has started I cant see there being any broken cables now. I have no idea if we have a dodgy relay or bow to test them, or which ones to test? I have tested all fuses and all seem ok.


Really struggling with this now and any help would be appreciated. Both batteries are new and fully charged.. I tried a jump lead between positive terminals to see if it was a problem with a battery but again no change,


Is there anything else I can easily test to rule things out? does anyone have a wiring diagram for the car with in outs?


Thanks in advance

 

Thank you for the detailed reply, I will have a look for the wiring diagrams and get my diagnostics guy back hopefully armed with them and see if he can make some sense of it all with this extra information.

The car may not have shut down properly from the previous cycle as you say, but how could we over come this? its just very strange now as we had it running but now it has reverted back to no ignition like it was before I repaired the broken cable.

we have converted the car in to a pick up for a client, sounds mad I know but is coming together nicely now, just need to get it running again and we will be running with it. originally designed to fit a motorbike in the back for shows but we are debating the bike thing now.

 

You are turning a Bentley Flying Spur into a pickup truck?

 

Yes.I will post some photos when we get nearer completion

 

One further thought on this: have you in any way altered any of the communications wiring around the car (by that I mean the twisted pairs which form the various buses), or have you intentionally removed an earth stud but inadvertently left any grounds floating? A not-permanently-connected ground cable could definitely lead to intermittent odd behaviour.

 

Vaguely remember the airbag sensors that you have disconnected , a control module needs to see them to throw a relay from the starter batt .
Also the pyro cutoff of the starter batt I think is triggered by a airbag signal .
So it could be a module needed to see the airbags are ok .
Having said this have you tried to start it with the key anti-clockwise which uses the LHS batt instead of the RHS little starter ?
This LHS method may not need to see any airbag signals .?

 

we definitely need to double check all ground connections but every one that was disconnected was kept and should be to ground now. One thought I had was that the aerial modules that used to be above the rear window may need to be screwed down to the body as they were.

The twisted pairs I will have to check they are all ok but they are all there and were no way modified. We haven't modified any wiring,at all yet, only disconnected the doors and air bags.

With regards the communications, the antennas as standard were wired in to the rear window, pretty sure this was just for the am/fm radio though with 3 wires. This has been cut off the window but I cant see this being a problem especially as we had it running briefly.

I think a bad earth is a good shout being as we had it running briefly since modifying the car, but I also wondered about a faulty relay? which relay would it be and it there a way to bypass it to check or to test it?

I will try to get hold of the wiring diagrams now and see if I can made sense of them.

 

Hi, yes I have tried turning the key to the left, then the right to bypass the starter battery with no luck.I will try plugging all the air bags in though to try it again as its an easy thing to try out. I will try anything at the moment!

One thought I did have was that as we left the key in the ignition when we disconnected the batteries, could this have any effect on the starting of it now?

 

I have tried to download and paid for a IETIS workshop manual with no luck and cant get it to open. Does anyone have a link to a site that will work? Or would you be able to send wiring diagrams to my email? info@dcclassics.co.uk

Thanks

 

You haven't clarified why you can't get IETIS to open. These are the common problems: It has to be on a 32 bit system and, if you get the EXPIRED message when you try to start it, you have to set your system date to a date prior to the expiry date. Remember to set the date back when you exit.

 

Thank you. I have my dad looking in to it as I am struggling for time but I believe he has been trying on his 64bit system. I will let him know and hopefully get it working,

 

Any updates????

 

We literally just got it running again today after getting all the wiring loom back in to place. Turns out it must have been a bad connection on a fuse after all that. We had the new battery replaced a this was faulty as well but I dont think this was the reason for it.

After puting the new battery on it still didnt have ignition, so after clutching at straws I thought I would check all the fuses again in the fuse box by the steering wheel, then after finding all of these ok, thought I would remove them all and plug back in just in case we had a bad connection and hey presto it fired in to life and all good again. It makes no sense at all as to why this happened but it did the trick!

Only issue we have now is that the suspension compressor wont work and therefore we cant pump the suspension up. The height button brings up the diagram on the screen but the dial wont do anything and compressor wont kick in. Anyone have any ideas on where to look? I wondering if we missed a plug ( which I dont think we have ) or if we have a dodgy relay/fuse/compressor. Although again I dont think its the compressor as the dial on the dash wont work either.

 

Check the thread above yours. Here's the first clue, the second clue is the thread about the wood block trick, I don't know where that one is.

And..we need pictures, BTW.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...n-restart.html

 

Yea the wood blocks was mine British. When I changed out my struts and control arms I could get it to air up. So I jacked it back up enough to put blocks underneath the tires to simulate it was on the ground and even with the rear. Started the car and it aired up. Don’t know why but it did 🤷🏾