Just did my front pads and rotors using the DIY guide, which didn’t have details on the fastener sizes or information on removing the rotor, so thought this might be helpful. Takes about 30 minutes a corner if you take your time and have your tools at hand using a floor jack and hand tools.
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Tools: Lug wrench (17mm) for wheel removal, 7mm hex bit, 21mm socket, screwdriver, breaker bar and appropriate socket wrenches for your sockets/bits.
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Other stuff: anti-seize (diy instructions don’t call for this, however), anti squeal, loc tite for the caliper bracket 21mm bolts, at least 2 cans of brake cleaner, to clean things as you go.
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• --
• Prep Car for jacking and wheel removal
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  1. Put car in high suspension setting. (Lifted)
  2. Loosen lug bolts on wheel
  3. Put the car in jack mode
  4. Jack up car at jackpot for the wheel (or on lift, if you’re so lucky)
  5. Remove Wheel
• --
• Removing caliper
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1. Remove Bentley plate by prying up and out along bottom
2. Remove 2 plastic plugs on the back of caliper
3. Remove two 7mm hex head slider pins from caliper where the plastic plugs were removed.
4. Lever pad on inside back into caliper with pry-bar or screwdriver.
5. Remove top of caliper and hang, so brake line isn’t compressed.

• --
• Remove pads
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1. Remove Pads from caliper, and unplug electrical connection.
2. Use a brake piston spreader tool to push the two pistons back into the caliper, to allow for the thickness of the new pads.
3. Remove old sensor wire from mount

• --
• Remove caliper bracket and rotor
• --

1. Remove 2 21MM bolts from rear of caliper bracket to remove it (necessary to remove rotor)
2. Remove torx screw (t30) holding rotor in place
3. Remove Rotor

• --
• Replace Rotor and pads
• --

1. Replace Rotor (can use a couple of lug nuts to help align)
2. Replace Caliper bracket
3. Install new pads into caliper, along with anti-seize (copper, though diy doesn’t call for this) in the shoulders where the pad slides against the caliper and anti squeal (diy recommends CRC or Permatex disc brake quiet) on the back of the pads.
4. Reconnect electrical connection
5. Remount electrical connection onto caliper bracket

• --
• Remount caliper
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1. Re-mount caliper with 2 pins. Per the DIY, leave this clean and bare, no sil-glyde.
2. Re-install the Bentley nameplate by situating outer tabs and lifting the center tabs into place with a flat screwdriver.
3. Re-install rubber plugs for the 2 pins.

• --
• Last step!
• --

1. Re-install wheel (5 x 17mm + anti theft lug bolt)

 

Well done Sam, but may I make a couple of suggestions:

The level of fluid in the brake master cylinder should be checked prior to pushing back the pistons into the calipers, and if necessary a small amount of fluid removed, to ensure none overflows due to piston displacement.

Any anti-corrosion coating on the new disks should be removed with solvent before it comes into contact with the new pads.

Prior to fitting the new disk, the hub should be thoroughly wire-brushed to remove any hint of corrosion that could otherwise cause the disk not to sit flat on the hub, hence run-out and cause slight pad push-back, or vibration.

Caliper mounting bolts should be tightened to 190Nm.

Guide pins should be tightened to 28Nm.

 

Very nice @sam08861 !
Rep added.

​​​​​​Hello @Dark Green ,
Good call on the fluid level to be checked prior, along with the torque values. Rep added.

As for the anti-corrosion coating, I have asked this question of many over the years with always different answers, and after cleaning the coating off my A8L W12's rotors with Brake-Kleen prior to install, and seeing the amount of rust on the areas that the pads do not touch, I left the coating on the brand new Bentley rotors this time and let the pads only take off the coating in the areas that they come in contact with, as was suggested by a few mechanics.

Here are some pictures of my new rotors before and after 50ish miles below.

Johnny

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Thanks Dark Green and Johnny Hotspur GT! The torque specs, cleaning and brake reservoir information are vital and I've added them with credit due into the 1st post.

My local indy German car mechanic says the same thing about the rotor coatings in that he leaves them be, even for the pad mating surfaces. His theory is that it will wear off and then rust like a regular uncoated rotor, so prolongs the time before rust spots appear.

One interesting note, these front rotors are so thick they can stand on end, making putting them down for a second and picking them back easy.

Doing the rears tomorrow afternoon, for which it appears the DIY has lots of information.

 

Sam, what is the source of the DIY info you reference?

Good job on the step-by-step write up.

 

Randy V,

It's the PDF 'diy bible' document from this thread; https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...anual-pdf.html

Downloaded from the dropbox link in post #115

 

Thanks sir.