I changed my condenser yesterday as there was a massive hole in it. I couldn’t find any guides on how to do it apart from in IETIS. I wasn’t looking forward to this job as it stated the entire “front module” needs to be removed to get to the condenser; so that means disassembly of front bumper, beam, shrouds, full radiator pack (condenser, coolant, transmission oil cooler and PS cooler, possibly even the two charge coolers either side of it), both fans, slam panel, bonnet latch assembly and the frame they’re all bolted to. Plus of course, draining of the coolant and possibly losing some transmission oil. Well I’m pleased to report most of that wasn’t necessary.

Remove undertray
Remove front bumper
Remove beam
Remove three shrouds
Unbolt, but do not disconnect, the PS cooler at the base of the condenser. The hoses are flexible enough to allow you to move it out the way.
Remove upper bracing… and then you can stop.



There’s three torx screws at the bottom of the metal upright covers on each side of the radiator pack.



Remove these screws, and you can carefully tilt the covers away at the bottom edge - this will allow access to the bolts which secure the condenser, and then afford you just enough room to slip the condenser out of the bottom.



Installation is reversal of removal. I also fitted a new dryer; that’s a whole different story of inaccessibility and awkwardness!

 

Excellent info Dan.
Thats what I call real insider information and good to know.
What about the dryer, how did you work round that?
Frank.

 

To change the dryer, the wheel arch liner needs to come out and the bumper needs to be off. The next issue is the lack of clearance above the dryer to get a T40 Torx driver onto the bolts securing the lines. The only way to do it is to lower the whole dryer assembly, which includes the plastic bracket holding it to the body. To do this, there’s a nut on the inside of the assembly facing the front of the car, and a bolt on the side of the bracket, both of which need to be removed. This will allow you to pull the dryer down by about an inch; the hardline nearest the wheel arch liner prevents it from moving any further, but a short Torx bit can be slipped in and the securing bolt loosened. The assembly can now be lowered with the other hardline still attached, as it has a flexible or joint further along.

Anyway, it’s all a moot point because I still have no A/C. I gassed it to 30psi through the Low side port, left it overnight and it held the pressure no problem. I have no more fault codes in the Auto HVAC address. I have a set of A/C gauges so I’ll see if they show anything obvious, but my next port of call will be to try to gain access to the Refrigerant Control Valve on the A/C compressor. I’m hoping to be able to change this from underneath or maybe with the wheel arch liner off. If not, then I don’t think there’s any alternative but to remove the front module (fully, this time), and if I’m going to that extent I might as well change the whole A/C compressor.

Unless @Johnny Hotspur GT can offer any advice….?

 

Hello @DanW12 ,
When you say you gassed it to 30psi, do you mean with the engine running and AC in operation, or did you just add 30psi with the engine off, as the system takes 20 - 22 oz's / 580 - 620 grams.

Also, did you vacuum the system after being reassembled ?


Johnny

 

I imagine the disappointing cooling performance is down to simply not adding enough refrigerant. I’ve just had another go and used a manifold gauge set to monitor pressures. Maybe you can have a gander and see if I’m heading down the right track…

So with the engine off, reading was as follows:




and with engine on (and obvs, not in ECON mode and LOW temp setting all round)



About a minute later, it went to this, and stayed there, with very minor fluctuations:



So I chanced my arm and added more refrigerant. This canister started with 510g, and I had used some on a previous vehicle. I think about 600g is needed for the GT. I emptied the can and ended up with 21psi on the low side and about 160psi on the high side. Every couple of minutes it would drop by a couple of psi and then go back up again. Previous experience tells me this is normal (that’s based on a system with a clutch, not the GTs refrigerant control valve), but it should be in the range of 30-40psi on the low side. The worrying thing for me is that when I switched the engine off, the low side shot up to 90psi:



is this normal? It does feel a touch cooler in the cabin. Should I buy another canister of refrigerant and keep going? Or have I goosed it?

 

Hello @DanW12 ,
Firstly, you did not answer my question as to if you vacuumed the system after you reassembled it, the system needs to be vacuumed (evacuated) to 28 inHg, the yellow numbers on your low pressure side gauge.

As to the pressures you show in the pictures, yes, the last picture showing 90psi on both sides is normal after the engine is turned off, as the pressure has equalized on both sides, just as your first picture shows roughly 35-37 psi each side, the normal pressure on both sides with the engine off after equalization is 120psi +/- depending on the outside/ambient air temperature, along with the temperature of the engine compartment, such as hot versus cold engine.


So yes, your picture of 9psi on the low and 85psi on the high, means you are low on refrigerant, depending on the year/VIN the system holds as shown in the screenshot, it may need up to 24oz's, or 670 grams as per Bentley, but oddly enough, 24 ounces is actually 680 grams.

So your reading of 21psi / 160psi is on the right track, just needs some more to get it in the normal range, which again, depending on ambient temperature and engine compartment temperature would be between 35-50 for the low, and 150-200 for the high, and if very hot engine compartment and outdoor temps, you will see a little higher on both.

I sincerely hope that you vacuumed the system, if not, then moisture and air are in the system, and will lead to not the best operating efficiency and coldness.

Johnny

 

Don't add more or you will overload the system and regret it. The orifice tube should have been changed. They become dirty and contaminated. A poorly flowing pass through of the orifice tube results in poor cooling. The orifice tube is under the skuttle on the driver's side. The best way to identify which orifice tube is installed is to remove the old one and verify it's color. These orifice tubes are used on Audi and Volkswagen. Unfortunately the system has to be evaluated. Also the correct PAG oil should have been added since new components were installed. Finally the system nneeds to be held at the appropriate vauume (30hg) for 45 minutes before adding refrigerant. This will boil off any moisture in the system.

There are plenty of tutorials regarding proper procedures on evaluation and filling automotive A/C systems, on line.

 

Hello @1eapplebaum ,
Agreed, I was just about to edit and ask about the orific, we both posted at the same time, I am waiting on my question of evacuation.

I do think the system is low though, as the comment is made that the can started out as 510 grams/18 oz's, I take that to mean as new, but, he used some of the 18 ounces in another vehicle, just how much, we have no idea, and his 21/160 reading shows it to be low, if his high was rising to 200+ and the low was sucking down to zero, then yes, 100% agreed the orifice to be clogged, just as mine was, but my low fell below zero into a vacuum while my high ran up close to 300.

Johnny

 

Hi Johnny,

My orifice tube was quite dirty and contributed to poor A/C performance. Also, my HI/LO pressure readings were off.

Anyway the additional PAG oil is crucial when installing new components. As we know PAG oil is needed to lubricate the compressor. In time compressor failure can happen even though the system is cooling. PAG 46 is what is required..BTW.

E

 

Thanks for the input guys, very useful info.

No I didn’t evacuate the system. The idea was to just make sure the system was sealed after the new condenser and dryer were fitted. I needed to get some refrigerant in the lines to test that they held pressure, and to be able to clear the Low Refrigerant Pressure code which might stop the compressor activating. Now that I can see its holding pressure and the readings are (somewhat) normal, I feel confident taking it somewhere to get it properly evacuated and regassed and not have them come back with a list of new components they think I need.

And yes, I did put some PAG oil in the new condenser, along with UV dye. I’ll buy and fit a new orifice tube before heading to the A/C place.

Cheers again!