Secondary cat bypass installation tips?
Secondary cat bypass installation tips?
Has anybody installed these themselves? I'm working on that right now and there is no room to get the top nut on the flange where the secondary cat bolts to the primary. I can only get in there with a 1/4" ratchet and then there isn't enough room to move it! Tips?!
Thanks.
Thanks.
I just finished trying to go through the wheel well. What an ordeal that was! I removed the lining thinking there would be a bunch of openings back there for an easy go. WRONG! There are no access points behind the fender lining. After spending about an hour simply trying to get the lining back in I got the lining "good enough" and put everything back together. Think I'll try and find a shop that doesn't mind breaking federal laws. This vehicle is certainly a PITA to work on.
I just finished trying to go through the wheel well. What an ordeal that was! I removed the lining thinking there would be a bunch of openings back there for an easy go. WRONG! There are no access points behind the fender lining. After spending about an hour simply trying to get the lining back in I got the lining "good enough" and put everything back together. Think I'll try and find a shop that doesn't mind breaking federal laws. This vehicle is certainly a PITA to work on.
Bojan
You got an awesome deal on that. I saw it in the FS section.
Thanks for the recommendation. I'll give them a call. The install is straightforward, but if you can't get to that top nut on both sides then there's nothing you can do. All of the modifications to my other vehicle were done by me. I guess I got spoiled with the easy accessibility that domestics seem to have
Thanks for the recommendation. I'll give them a call. The install is straightforward, but if you can't get to that top nut on both sides then there's nothing you can do. All of the modifications to my other vehicle were done by me. I guess I got spoiled with the easy accessibility that domestics seem to have
I thought it was illegal to remove a functioning catalytic converter before X amount of miles? And even then it's supposed to be replaced with another one...
I'm sure it's possible to do yourself, and I have around 3 feet worth of extensions, but it seems like more trouble than it's worth.
I'm sure it's possible to do yourself, and I have around 3 feet worth of extensions, but it seems like more trouble than it's worth.
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Then is it not a cat at all? Maybe a resonator? Cats are used for emissions purposes. They're extremely expensive, so why use more than you have to? And it is illegal to tamper with any properly functioning catalytic converter unless you have reason to, and then only to replace it. I believe the fine is $25,000 if you're caught. I think it's moreso meant for shops.
Last edited by huskyfan23; Dec 25, 2008 at 06:19 PM.
Then is it not a cat at all? Maybe a resonator? Cats are used for emissions purposes. They're extremely expensive, so why use more than you have to? And it is illegal to tamper with any properly functioning catalytic converter unless you have reason to, and then only to replace it. I believe the fine is $25,000 if you're caught. I think it's moreso meant for shops.
Cant wait to install it.. hahahaha.
Just put them on mine and it took a universal joint 12mm socket, followed by a couple of long extensions, then a 3/8" drive universal elbow, and then one more extension to get the socket wrench on it. This was for the right (passenger) side. For the driver's side I was able to use the same 12mm universal joint socket with a single extension and the socket wrench as there was enough room on that side with the bottom engine cover off to get that one off. These are Fabspeed pieces I got used.
Some other notes:
>You can get to everything and pull the stock pieces out by setting it at the highest ride height.
>I put penetrating oil on everything overnight. But I still broke every stud on the cats.
>Be sure to drop the rest of the exhaust rear of the clamps that hold the pipes on. Also remove the bottom engine cover.
>The gaskets on the flange that you're loosening up required a chisel and hammer to get separated.
>I also used a flat file to knock burrs off of each flange surface before getting them on.
>The bolts that come with the Fabspeed stuff are a real bear to get on. The nuts are self-locking and are a bit on the long side to get ready to take your time with those.
>On mine, the pipe on the right side had a gap larger than the left side did when clamping it to the rear piping. I also had a leak after a couple of tries to clamp it and pulling the bypass pipe into the clamp to make sure it was getting enough material to seal. I just put on some Permatex Copper RTV on it to help seal it up so we'll see how that holds.
I wouldn't recomend this install to anyone unless you have several extensions for a socket driver and one or more univeral joints to get the top two bolts off. They are every bit a pain in the rear as everyone else has said and I also do my own wrenching in general as well as engine rebuilds on my racebikes. A good helping of patience and having extra time would be a good idea. It took me about 2.5 hours to do it all.
Some other notes:
>You can get to everything and pull the stock pieces out by setting it at the highest ride height.
>I put penetrating oil on everything overnight. But I still broke every stud on the cats.
>Be sure to drop the rest of the exhaust rear of the clamps that hold the pipes on. Also remove the bottom engine cover.
>The gaskets on the flange that you're loosening up required a chisel and hammer to get separated.
>I also used a flat file to knock burrs off of each flange surface before getting them on.
>The bolts that come with the Fabspeed stuff are a real bear to get on. The nuts are self-locking and are a bit on the long side to get ready to take your time with those.
>On mine, the pipe on the right side had a gap larger than the left side did when clamping it to the rear piping. I also had a leak after a couple of tries to clamp it and pulling the bypass pipe into the clamp to make sure it was getting enough material to seal. I just put on some Permatex Copper RTV on it to help seal it up so we'll see how that holds.
I wouldn't recomend this install to anyone unless you have several extensions for a socket driver and one or more univeral joints to get the top two bolts off. They are every bit a pain in the rear as everyone else has said and I also do my own wrenching in general as well as engine rebuilds on my racebikes. A good helping of patience and having extra time would be a good idea. It took me about 2.5 hours to do it all.





I am looking into getting these for my 04 CTT and wondered if it was good enough without doing the mufflers.