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Who has used 22-inches wheels for the longterm?

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  #31  
Old 05-20-2014, 11:19 PM
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I have 22'' Rinspeed reps with 295/30 tires, with no issues at all, I actually didn't notice any difference over 21''.
 
  #32  
Old 05-21-2014, 06:47 AM
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gbratk

Can you post pictures?
 
  #33  
Old 05-22-2014, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by CALMOTION
Can you post pictures?

Here is mine...
 
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  #34  
Old 05-22-2014, 06:24 AM
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Thanks for the post. Did you lower the car? Love the way its sits without the big gap? You have air suspension on the S correct? Was the Rim and Tire purchase in Ebay. I think the 295 fills up the wheel well but doesn't the 30 profile makes it more vulnerable to bending/road noise?
 
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:46 AM
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Width

What was the width on the Rinspeed?
 
  #36  
Old 05-22-2014, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by CALMOTION
Thanks for the post. Did you lower the car? Love the way its sits without the big gap? You have air suspension on the S correct? Was the Rim and Tire purchase in Ebay. I think the 295 fills up the wheel well but doesn't the 30 profile makes it more vulnerable to bending/road noise?
Yes I have air suspension.
I lowered it with durametric. So now is LOW level like before LOADING level.

To be honest, I can here more road imperfection noises, but with stiffness I have no problems. I drive in comfort mode most of the time, and if drive in some really bad roads I also rise it to normal level.
However this is second summer season with 22'' and till now, none of them was damaged.

I bought wheels on eBay, and tires in local tire shop.

Dimensions of wheels is 10Jx22 ET50

Best regards

Gasper
 
  #37  
Old 05-22-2014, 09:57 AM
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Gasper,
What was the durametric setting was it 25 on all four corners per the guide? Would 295x35 rub insted of 295x30?
Thanks
Gardie
 
  #38  
Old 05-22-2014, 10:36 AM
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To be honest, I don't remember how much I lowered it, but I know that I lowered it the same on all four corners.

I went with 295/30-22 because its diameter is closest to 295/35-21 (-0,6%). I could also chose 285/35-22, here is difference +2,5%.
But if you want to chose 295/35-22, there is difference for 3,4%

I don't know how much bigger diameter is acceptable, but like I said, I want to stay as close as it possible compared original diameter, so because of that I went with 295/30.
 
  #39  
Old 05-22-2014, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by gbratk
To be honest, I don't remember how much I lowered it, but I know that I lowered it the same on all four corners.

I went with 295/30-22 because its diameter is closest to 295/35-21 (-0,6%). I could also chose 285/35-22, here is difference +2,5%.
But if you want to chose 295/35-22, there is difference for 3,4%

I don't know how much bigger diameter is acceptable, but like I said, I want to stay as close as it possible compared original diameter, so because of that I went with 295/30.
Gasper - same here ... I use 295/30-22 on my RUF wheels. Those 22" wheels of yours sure look fantastic!

When you get new tires again, do check the run-out of the wheels - a circle vs an elipse.
 
  #40  
Old 05-23-2014, 06:32 AM
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Norman

Is your setup similar to Gasper the tire to wheel gap is close? if yes did you durametric also? If yes what setting? Didnt you say your wheels bent? What tires are you guys using?
Gardie
 
  #41  
Old 05-23-2014, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Cannoli
Gasper - same here ... I use 295/30-22 on my RUF wheels. Those 22" wheels of yours sure look fantastic!

When you get new tires again, do check the run-out of the wheels - a circle vs an elipse.
Thank you Norman!

Yours also looks really really good!

I get them checked and rebalanced before I put it on this year. Luckily they where all like new.
 
  #42  
Old 05-23-2014, 07:23 AM
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Norman /Gasper

Is that check the roundess of the rims? What machine checks those?
Gardie
 
  #43  
Old 05-23-2014, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CALMOTION
Is that check the roundess of the rims? What machine checks those?
Gardie
Essentially yes, you are checking the roundness of the wheel (also called runout) in respect to the center of rotation. You can check for runout/roundness on wheel balancing equipment like the Hunter 9000. As the wheel is rotated, measure how round the wheel is in respect to the center of rotation. A straight edge or a dial indicator can be used to measure the maximum and minimum diameters (or radii/radiuses) as the wheel/rim is rotated. This is done prior to installing the tire. The smaller the difference between the maximum and minimum is the goal (what you want). Here in California, we have companies that can bring an egg-shaped wheel back to round again.

In regards to tires, I really like the Pirelli Scorpions - predictable performance, great value (low price), wears nicely, and does not get loud as it wears.

I don't have any lowering modules or links. Eventually, I'll do the Duramatic adjustment to the ride height like Gasper has done.
 

Last edited by Cannoli; 05-23-2014 at 09:01 AM.
  #44  
Old 05-23-2014, 10:47 AM
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Thanks

Thanks Norman. Where in California are you located? I'm the the SF Bay Area/Peninsula. What company did you use to check yours if you did.
Gardie
 
  #45  
Old 05-25-2014, 11:55 AM
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Gardie - though I travel up and down the state, I live in SoCal about 60 minutes north of the US/Mexico boarder. I'm originally from NorCal which I'm still very found of.

The company I used to repair my wheels is IWC Motorsports, formally Inland Wheel, in San Bernardino. Website is http://www.iwcmotorsports.com. But remember, anyone can check for roundness - just rotate around the center of the wheel and measure the change in the radius/radii or diameter. Any time you get new tires, you can check then.
 


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