coolant pipe burst, help please
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Joined: May 2011
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I'll take a great mechanic I know over an unknown porsche specialist (who may specialize in seperating you from your money) every day. The job isn't magic. It is somewhat grueling and a real PITA (getting the big pipe out expecially..) There aren't too many special tools needed (triple-square drivers - aka metric spline drivers, good selection of torx wrenches, external torx sockets aka e-torx) and a good mechanic, especially one who works on a lot of foreign cars will have those.
It the great mechanic the type who will read instructions (printouts of DIY's)? And wants to learn some new job? Then he's the one I'd go to.
It the great mechanic the type who will read instructions (printouts of DIY's)? And wants to learn some new job? Then he's the one I'd go to.
I am glad I sent it to my friends shop. for sure the dealer or other unknown specialist will cost arm and leg for the crazy T replacement.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 495
From: Texas
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Thank God it was over.
i started at my friends shop at 10am and finished off at 11:30pm. on and off since my friend had other clients and I was away for soemthing else. so totally i would say 6 hours work.
biggest surprise: when we removed the intake mani it turned out the plastic pipes were already been replaced. and it was actually the water hose T (p/n: 955-106-323-50. $30) snaped. The seller does not know/care about cars and could not find any service record when I bought the truck. so i had no clue they were the aluminum ones.
really hard to replace the T
some tips here:
1, try to get the special plier for the compression clamps, and it needs 2 people here. one locates the clamps and the other releases/grabs the plier
2, remove the driver side air pump barcket
3, we could not see the lower brach of the T and it was really tight so we basically cut the rubber pipe and pull it out.
4, follow the X mark on the new part. it should be the location of the overlap part of the clamps. otherwise some clamps were impossible to access when you put the T back.
5, use lubrication spray
6, be very patient
I am glad it was not the pipes so the starter and the transmission seal should be okay. but the T was not easy. I am an engineer and I built my house from scratch but the T thingy was really frustrating. Try to work with someone that has car experience and make sure you have all the tools.
I would like to thank all of you that provide tips/advice/feedback here. I DO appreciate that.
and now i have a brand new coolant pipe upgrade kit for sell.
i started at my friends shop at 10am and finished off at 11:30pm. on and off since my friend had other clients and I was away for soemthing else. so totally i would say 6 hours work.
biggest surprise: when we removed the intake mani it turned out the plastic pipes were already been replaced. and it was actually the water hose T (p/n: 955-106-323-50. $30) snaped. The seller does not know/care about cars and could not find any service record when I bought the truck. so i had no clue they were the aluminum ones.
really hard to replace the T
some tips here:
1, try to get the special plier for the compression clamps, and it needs 2 people here. one locates the clamps and the other releases/grabs the plier
2, remove the driver side air pump barcket
3, we could not see the lower brach of the T and it was really tight so we basically cut the rubber pipe and pull it out.
4, follow the X mark on the new part. it should be the location of the overlap part of the clamps. otherwise some clamps were impossible to access when you put the T back.
5, use lubrication spray
6, be very patient
I am glad it was not the pipes so the starter and the transmission seal should be okay. but the T was not easy. I am an engineer and I built my house from scratch but the T thingy was really frustrating. Try to work with someone that has car experience and make sure you have all the tools.
I would like to thank all of you that provide tips/advice/feedback here. I DO appreciate that.
and now i have a brand new coolant pipe upgrade kit for sell.
lol, That little T thingy is a b****
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
From: amarillo, Texas
Rep Power: 0
Just entering the coolant pipe wonder land
My 05 turbo is at 50K. so far so good.... but I would like to do the pipes before they let go.
Do you still have the kit ?
Please PM me if you would like to sell.
Thanks
Do you still have the kit ?
Please PM me if you would like to sell.
Thanks
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 358
From: Philippines
Rep Power: 29
Guys sorry to resurrect an old thread. My 04 Cayenne Turbo is currently in the shop undergoing PPI inspection. The service manager from the dealers recognized the vehicle and remembered the previous owner to have had a coolant pipe burst problem previously. However he said that the previous owner ordered parts directly from the US and had some other shop install the parts to minimize on costs. Now, during the inspection, they tell me that my transmission housing has a leak. Reading through this thread I found out that the coolant pipe burst problem might be related to to tranny housing leak they've found. Am I right? Oh by the way, I also have a "delayed jerk" when I step on the gas pedal usually in the morning. To further describe this - put the shifter to drive, step on the gas and nothing happens then try stepping on the gas more and suddenly the gear engages and your car jack rabbits. Is this all related or these are isolated cases? Can this delayed jerking problem be solved by a computer diagnostics and reprogramming or something else broke inside the tranny? TIA!
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From: Philippines
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Thanks deilenberger. Yes I think that would be a better term than jerk haha. I hope you are right with your theory / assessment. Cheers!
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 358
From: Philippines
Rep Power: 29
Follow-up question please...how do I top up ATF fluid??? I searched all over the forum and found only bits and pieces on how to top up or diagnose (ATF temp etc.) but there is really nothing concrete. I could not find "TOP UP ATF" or "ATF" on the users manual of my CT. Maybe there's a secret door, compartment, dipstick somewhere...?
Oh by the way, I noticed that this "delayed engagement" happens only on 2nd gear. Also, most importantly, after 10 - 15 minutes of driving the C, this delayed engagement issue totally disappears! Strange! Is it because after 10 - 15 minutes - the low level ATF / transmission oil/fluid had already been distributed or spread all through out the tranny parts where it is needed??? (I hope so)
Oh by the way, I noticed that this "delayed engagement" happens only on 2nd gear. Also, most importantly, after 10 - 15 minutes of driving the C, this delayed engagement issue totally disappears! Strange! Is it because after 10 - 15 minutes - the low level ATF / transmission oil/fluid had already been distributed or spread all through out the tranny parts where it is needed??? (I hope so)
There is a plug on the side of the transmission... and it's filled at a specific temperature with a specific ATF. It can only be done on a lift. It's not a normal owner item. You need a dealer or a knowledgeable independent.
And yes - that's possible. As the ATF warms up it expands.
And yes - that's possible. As the ATF warms up it expands.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 358
From: Philippines
Rep Power: 29
Just to update and finally conclude the tranny "delayed engagement" issue. It was solved when i had the stealership replace all the 8.5 liters of transmission fluid together with all the atf oil seals, gaskets, oil pan and atf nut. I totally lost the delayed jerk or engagement issue finally. I feel very lucky that it was not a serious issue. Still the stealership managed to have me shell out $1955 :-( for this issue.
Oh well....i enjoy my CT very much anyway :-)
Oh well....i enjoy my CT very much anyway :-)
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i am glad your CTT is back on track again and ready for the summer. I hope everyone who requests help here could update their solution in the end.
i remember someone on this forum tested the toyota type IV and the porsche transmission fluid in a lab and proved that they are chemically the same. I changed the fuild about a year ago and replaced most of it when I did my timing chain replacement last month. I used toyota stuff both times and they worked just fine. I sticked to the factory differential oil though. very very expensive.
and for anyone who wants to do a transmission oil change themself, you can find a youtube video and it is not that complicated. the big nut was hard to remove.
i remember someone on this forum tested the toyota type IV and the porsche transmission fluid in a lab and proved that they are chemically the same. I changed the fuild about a year ago and replaced most of it when I did my timing chain replacement last month. I used toyota stuff both times and they worked just fine. I sticked to the factory differential oil though. very very expensive.
and for anyone who wants to do a transmission oil change themself, you can find a youtube video and it is not that complicated. the big nut was hard to remove.
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