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Sorry for not responding sooner, but I finally got the issue resolved last week.
After rebuilding the starter, replacing the battery. Replacing the started again with another rebuilt one... Replacing the battery with a larger one. Checking all the relays and battery/starter cable resistances... Swapping out the switch behind the key... Replacing the starter again with a newly available factory rebuilt starter. The issue was still the same.
In the middle of all this the high pressure fuel pump went out. And even though they had replaced it under a TSB, it was more that 2 years so Porsche wouldn't cover it...
Finally they tried a brand new factory starter and it starts like it never did before. It cranks fast and starts immediately.
I feel like they must have redesigned the starter since the original part was made. It's a totally different car.
What a nightmare, but at least it's over.
Cliff Notes: You need to drop $850-$900 or whatever for a brand new starter from Porsche.
Just had the same no start and steering faulty on my 2004 Cayenne Turbo. It costs $3k mostly due to parts. Here is what happens...because Porsche built the steering lock motor into the steering column there is no way to change out just the lock motor. You must replace the whole steering column. When the steering lock motor is faulty, the car won't let you even crank the motor because of the seriousness of the steering lock. Imagine driving at 65 mph and the steering lock engaging? Not good. The car is protecting you by not letting it start. The column is $1500 and the Kessy computer that controls the steering lock is about $700. My Kessy computer was found to be inoperative. I guess the bad steering lock fried the computer or vice verse. It does suck bad for a no start condition to cost so much. So far everything is working perfect since the work was complete about one month ago. FYI to those contemplating putting in a junk yard steering column....don't do it. I got a salvage column and thought my Durametric could program it to my car. The Porsche manual states that once a steering column is paired to the car that is it. No switching to another car. I guess this is to deter theft tampering. Only the factory Porsche PWIS can read the steering faulty codes and code a new steering column. A Durametric cannot read the codes because the OBDII connector is dead with the steering faulty code latched. Bad design from the perspective of guys like me who love DIY. Still love my Cayenne!
Originally Posted by rsa supra
Sorry for not responding sooner, but I finally got the issue resolved last week.
After rebuilding the starter, replacing the battery. Replacing the started again with another rebuilt one... Replacing the battery with a larger one. Checking all the relays and battery/starter cable resistances... Swapping out the switch behind the key... Replacing the starter again with a newly available factory rebuilt starter. The issue was still the same.
In the middle of all this the high pressure fuel pump went out. And even though they had replaced it under a TSB, it was more that 2 years so Porsche wouldn't cover it...
Finally they tried a brand new factory starter and it starts like it never did before. It cranks fast and starts immediately.
I feel like they must have redesigned the starter since the original part was made. It's a totally different car.
What a nightmare, but at least it's over.
Cliff Notes: You need to drop $850-$900 or whatever for a brand new starter from Porsche.
I was able to figure out mine as well. It ended up needing a new starter and a bigger battery. I had changed it last year with a bosch battery from pepboys which in their book said it was for my Cayenne. When I put it in I thought it was weird that it was smaller than the factory one but didnt think anything of it. O well 1,800 dollars later and its working perfectly.
I was able to figure out mine as well. It ended up needing a new starter and a bigger battery. I had changed it last year with a bosch battery from pepboys which in their book said it was for my Cayenne. When I put it in I thought it was weird that it was smaller than the factory one but didnt think anything of it. O well 1,800 dollars later and its working perfectly.
Ugh... Wish I had read this sooner... I just put in a BOSCH AGM Group 49/H8 battery from PepBoys on Saturday, and now my car is dead at work with a "Steering Faulty" on the dash. It will not start at all.
What all did you have to do to get this working again?
I replaced the AGM with a new battery of the same group 49/H8 lead acid battery that was in there (in case the charging rate of the AGM was what set all the codes in my car).
I found that the steering was not actually locked, so I manually unlocked the transmission by removing the console cover and using a screwdriver to unlock it) and was able to get it on a flatbed and home.
I ordered a Durametric Enthusiast, and was able to connect that (hold brake pedal down to wake up the CANBUS) and was able to read and reset all the codes stored in the various controllers. And then I was able to get it started. I can hear the steering lock engage and disengage now.
Steering Faulty or "your car is now a paperweight"
This is going to become a more and more common problem as the components used in this circuitry get older. It is basically the same in the Audi A8, the VW Touareg and the Cayenne. All of you changing batteries and starters, I am afraid you are barking up the wrong tree...
The official Porsche solution is to buy a new steering column, which including removal costs, replacement and recoding will run around $4000. There are some alternatives. Tom at Speedometer Solutions in Chicago is very capable of fixing the actual problem, but you will need to send him the steering lock module (not too bad to remove but not for the feint of heart) as well as the kessy module and a functional key. The total cost for this depends on whether the lock was active or not, which decides if you can get the lock off with everything in place, or if you have to remove the steering column to get it removed. I would say removal costs will be around $250 or so. Tom charges $399 to repair the module and GUARANTEES his work.
The last alternative is to get all the necessary parts from a junkyard, but you will need the lock from the steering column, the kessy as well as the keys. You will then use all of the new electronics, and switch the blade from your old key. The steering column lock, kessy and key are all matched. If you change all of that out it will still need to be matched to your ECU, or if you can find an exact match for your car type, you could change the ECU too. I have not done this myself, but it may be an option. I purchased such a set which is now spare.
I have just gone through this, good news is that my car is back on the road after spending less than $500. Sucks but better than $4k...
Last edited by ringnalda; Feb 15, 2018 at 08:05 AM.
I replaced the AGM with a new battery of the same group 49/H8 lead acid battery that was in there (in case the charging rate of the AGM was what set all the codes in my car).
I found that the steering was not actually locked, so I manually unlocked the transmission by removing the console cover and using a screwdriver to unlock it) and was able to get it on a flatbed and home.
I ordered a Durametric Enthusiast, and was able to connect that (hold brake pedal down to wake up the CANBUS) and was able to read and reset all the codes stored in the various controllers. And then I was able to get it started. I can hear the steering lock engage and disengage now.
Only a matter of time before you are stranded again with the steering faulty code. The steering lock module suffers from dry solder joints and other faults.
Only a matter of time before you are stranded again with the steering faulty code. The steering lock module suffers from dry solder joints and other faults.
You do not have to change the KESSY module but the column can only be paired once.
Newbie here. I had a similar problem with my new-to-me '09 Cayenne Diesel. Starting was problematical - battery had lots of juice and would turn the motor over nicely. But no sign of life. My mechanic solved the issue by replacing the crank and camshaft sensors - he was getting repeated errors with his diagnostic scanner. Runs like a dream now. Interestingly the workshop had an Audi Q7 the same morning with exactly the same symptoms and same results.
Starting issue resolved
