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Operating temperature too hot CS 04

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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 08:44 AM
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Operating temperature too hot CS 04

Hi guys. Sorry about me bringing this topic up once more but I have been trying to get to the bottom of this and all the discussion that I have read does not lead me to the place I want to go.

So what I am experiencing is that my CS is running hotter then Im comfortable with. I have been seeing the coolant temp go up to the 3/4 marker aprox 100C (215F) then as soon as the fans go on it drops down to 80C (180F) this continues to go on in stop and go traffic and even if the car is traveling slow <40 kmh (25mph)
I have tried the AC compressor trick and that does not work for me.

The oil temp is rock solid @ 85-90C (aprox200F)

Sometimes I smell traces of coolant from the AC but this happens randomly.

My climate is rather cold winter average around 0C (32F) and summer time it hits 15-17C (59-64F)

I also have the durametric ( not knowing fully how to best utilize that tool)
I have included the pictures I tookmfrom the live data

Any suggestions about how to solve this issue is appreciated and many thanks in advance guys.

Regards
 
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Old Feb 3, 2014 | 09:29 AM
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Water pump failure is common for the Cayenne. What year model is your Cayenne and how many miles has it been driven? Are your coolant pipes plastic or have they been upgraded to metal pipes? Is your coolant level constant, or are there signs of leaks or low coolant levels?
 
Old Feb 3, 2014 | 10:12 AM
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Thank for the reply.

My Cayenne is 2004 with 70k miles on it.
I did check the water pump for play but there is none. Also no visible leak from there as well.
The coolant level is almost constant. There seems to be a tiny leakage somewhere but nothing visible and the coolant pipes have been upgraded to the metal ones.
 
Old Feb 3, 2014 | 11:21 AM
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Interesting. Now I understand your question a little bit better.

When my water pump failed. There were several symptoms. It was making noise, it did show some play and it was leaking a little bit. I wonder if your pump is failing but not yet symptomatic. Have you tried a coolant system flush with fresh coolant? It can't think of what else could be causing this issue. Are there any obstructions to the air flow into your radiator? What about the radiator fan - is it operating properly?
 
Old Feb 3, 2014 | 12:54 PM
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I think the radiator fan is working properly. At least when looking at the live data from
durametric it shows me when engine temp reaches 95-97 (215-220F) then it rapidly decreases to around 82 (180F) when the fans kick in.
(I thought that it was possible to test the component with durametric but have not been able to locate that option)

I haven't had the coolant flushed but that is worth the shot I assume. That is needed to be done under pressure right ??
 
Old Apr 6, 2014 | 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Icebird757
I think the radiator fan is working properly. At least when looking at the live data from
durametric it shows me when engine temp reaches 95-97 (215-220F) then it rapidly decreases to around 82 (180F) when the fans kick in.
(I thought that it was possible to test the component with durametric but have not been able to locate that option)

I haven't had the coolant flushed but that is worth the shot I assume. That is needed to be done under pressure right ??
Did you find what the problem is? I have the same problem as well on my 2004 cayenne S with 110,000 miles
 
Old Apr 6, 2014 | 11:02 AM
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No sir. I have not figured this out...all the threads that i have been reading on the www seems to lead nowhere with no solid conclusion since someones tell that it is within operating range while others say theirs dont move at all....i have not yet changed the water pump because i cant ser how that should be the major factor in this case but sure its perhaps worth the shot...so man there is a need for the community here to get to the botton in this once and for all in my opinion at least since there are numerous threads about these same issues...
 
Old Apr 6, 2014 | 01:58 PM
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I would replace the Coolant resivoir tank cap first. Next suspects would be the coolant temp sensor and thermostat.
 
Old Apr 10, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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The coolant resirvoir cap has been replaced...no change...next action probably thermostat or sensor. Does anyone know wich one is easier to access/replace??
 
Old Apr 10, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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The water pump is a wear item. The impeller blades do wear over time and can't pump the coolant as efficiently as a new pump.

Thermostat also can cause issues with time.
 
Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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I'm taking my vehicle in Monday to repair whatever it is.. I'll keep you gents posted on what they find..
 
Old Jul 2, 2014 | 09:10 PM
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tcraig808 ???? So what came out of the repair you had ?
Im still fighting this issue
 
Old Jul 9, 2014 | 04:43 AM
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So Any ideas guys

if the water pump is not leaking is it possible that the impellers are not doing their job or could be "missing" i.e. broken or something so as the water pump not working correctly ???

The thermostat if its malfunctioning what would be the signs of that failure ?

There are numerous posts about this issue on the web but all of them do not lead to a conclusion or a permanent fix for this issue...are just everyone living with the problem or is there NO fix for this ????

Thanks in advance guys.
 
Old Jul 9, 2014 | 12:08 PM
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Symptoms of thermostat failure are normally overheating, if it fails in the closed position, or excessive warm up time and fluctuating engine temp (will run cool at higher speeds, and warm up at slow speeds) if it fails in the open position. So this doesn't seem to be your problem.
Heating (or overheating as the problem progresses) at idle, or low engine speed but normal function at higher speeds is a symptom of a worn or a water pump that is in the early stages of failure. The occasional coolant smell may also indicate a small leak from the pump that is evaporating before you actually see it. I would check for white residue in the area of the pump which would indicate a leak.

There is also a fan controller that is supposed to control the speed of the fan . I believe it is built into the fan and just takes a temperature sensor input from the PCM, if this has failed or is failing , it mean that the low temp fan settings are not working and the fan is only activating at full power when the engine is at high temp, and not at the lower temps.
Failure of the engine temperature sensor will normally lead to many other warnings and fault codes as the PCM uses the data to control the fueling . (so normally leads to high fuel consumption)

Have you checked fault codes ?

A coolant leak, or evidence of one (white residue) would indicate water failure (or impending failure)
Otherwise I would think to somehow test the the fan control module , ie whether the low speed settings are working.
The easiest solution would be is that your radiator or grill is just blocked with debri and only gets good airflow when the fan runs at high speed .
 
Old Jul 19, 2014 | 04:14 PM
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THANKS DLF for the answer.

I have not seen a leakage from the cooling system at least to my best of knowledge.
There are no error codes that I can pick up with Durametric for the cooling system...does any one know if there is a way to check the fan module with durametric or somehow to determine if its the fan that is causing this ?

When I got the car it had already been upgraded to aluminum coolant pipes but I dont know if the thermostat was replaced at the time.

The waterpump is original as well i think.

SO all durametric experts please let me know if there are some ways to do these testings with the durametric.

Thanks DLF again for the answer and all of you as well for your inputs.
 


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