advice needed on brakes
#1
advice needed on brakes
i would like some advice on cayenne turbo (955) brakes. i feel that the braking on my vehicle is not working right as it takes a very long time to stop.
according to the dealer the brakes are working fine but I still have my doubts. the front brake pads have been changed within a year by the previous owner
what can i do with the existing setup to make it better
thanks in advance.
according to the dealer the brakes are working fine but I still have my doubts. the front brake pads have been changed within a year by the previous owner
what can i do with the existing setup to make it better
thanks in advance.
#4
I would recommend Motul 5.1. If you are a more spirited driver I would recommend Motul RBF 600 if you do autocross, canyon runs, a lot of towing, ect. Just stay away from the Motul RBF 660 because it is recommended to be changed every year vs every two years like the others but it performs the best of all three. I redid my brakes on my Turbo S I use RBF 600 and have goodridge stainless steel brake lines and CarboTech AX6 brake pads all around. This proves to be a killer setup for our cars. I would start with the brake fluid first as its the cheapest thing to change that should show results for you. Hope this helps!!!
#5
We offer a few different kinds and also a few different kits to address your needs. For more information Click Here.
#7
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#10
what he is saying is that you will have to be SURE, let me underline - SURE - that your break components are at least stock, or other aftermarket, with PROVEN performance.
I you or previous owner replaced components that are sub par in performance, you will surely see deterioration in braking.
For example, if your pads are not performing well, it may be that even though you apply pressure on the pedal, the bite into the rotor will not be enough to slow the car down properly.
Conversely, if you have some track oriented components, you will notice same.
Track pads are intended to be working optimally when heated up a lot. Using them in day to day driving does not get them anywhere near any temperature, at which they work properly.
So it is critical that you have proper pads, and that the rotors are proper quality too.
Make sure you look on the rotors to see abnormal wear which could indicate issue with the braking components. Would be good to see the pads too to see how they wear.
If you are 100% sure (and I am not talking - 'well, he told me they are good' type of sure, then start suspecting other parts like the fluid, etc.
Check for fluid leaks (if you have to top it off once in a while), etc.
I would agree, would question quality of brake parts (pads/rotors) before suspecting fluid (unless the fluid is abhorrently dirty).
If you cannot observe antilock work on braking, your pads/rotors/calipers are not doing proper job trying to slow the car.
I you or previous owner replaced components that are sub par in performance, you will surely see deterioration in braking.
For example, if your pads are not performing well, it may be that even though you apply pressure on the pedal, the bite into the rotor will not be enough to slow the car down properly.
Conversely, if you have some track oriented components, you will notice same.
Track pads are intended to be working optimally when heated up a lot. Using them in day to day driving does not get them anywhere near any temperature, at which they work properly.
So it is critical that you have proper pads, and that the rotors are proper quality too.
Make sure you look on the rotors to see abnormal wear which could indicate issue with the braking components. Would be good to see the pads too to see how they wear.
If you are 100% sure (and I am not talking - 'well, he told me they are good' type of sure, then start suspecting other parts like the fluid, etc.
Check for fluid leaks (if you have to top it off once in a while), etc.
I would agree, would question quality of brake parts (pads/rotors) before suspecting fluid (unless the fluid is abhorrently dirty).
If you cannot observe antilock work on braking, your pads/rotors/calipers are not doing proper job trying to slow the car.
#11
i purchased the vehicle from the local porsche agent. it was used by the company head, so the only consolation i have is that the parts used is all original parts
having said that, my vehicle has less than 40,000 km's on it. it only has the front pads changed.
anyways my brake fluid change is up.. so i'll go ahead with that and then look at the other options
with regards to braking and pedal feel, there is absolutely no locking up etc. as you said there is no bite at all. so i'm sure there is another issue which needs to be looked at.
having said that, my vehicle has less than 40,000 km's on it. it only has the front pads changed.
anyways my brake fluid change is up.. so i'll go ahead with that and then look at the other options
with regards to braking and pedal feel, there is absolutely no locking up etc. as you said there is no bite at all. so i'm sure there is another issue which needs to be looked at.
#12
update
the more i search and read on the site on brakes etc, it looks like i have a severe problem with my brakes. speeds about 40 kmph, there is no bite at all when braking
again the agents claim the braking in this vehicle is normal and works as it should
any suggestions on what to look for? or the order in which I should start to look for issues?
the more i search and read on the site on brakes etc, it looks like i have a severe problem with my brakes. speeds about 40 kmph, there is no bite at all when braking
again the agents claim the braking in this vehicle is normal and works as it should
any suggestions on what to look for? or the order in which I should start to look for issues?
#13
what? I dont think you should bite a steering wheel when braking brakes should not lock at that speed. adn at any speed too.
#14
Well as I expected, there is hardy much change after the fluid change
Any advice on what to look at next??
Just to add to this...my problem is the time taken for the brakes to start working. As in it takes a bit of hard prsssure and travel before the brakes actually start to work well. Abs works but the pedal is very hard and takes a lot of pressure to make it go down
Hope this helps a bit
Any advice on what to look at next??
Just to add to this...my problem is the time taken for the brakes to start working. As in it takes a bit of hard prsssure and travel before the brakes actually start to work well. Abs works but the pedal is very hard and takes a lot of pressure to make it go down
Hope this helps a bit
Last edited by Fuzzo; 01-27-2015 at 08:53 AM.
#15
What you are describing, to me sounds like the pads and rotors start working better after heat is put into the system (pads rubbing rotors, building heat and eventually get better).
My bet is that your rotors and/or pads are not stock. My first guess would be your pads are ceramic, or track oriented pads. Hard to tell without actually seeing them.
I would take off the two front tires and remove the pads to inspect.
Things to ask are:
- are the rotors wearing even (no grooves in there anywhere, surface smooth)
- are the rotors glazed over or discolored
- are the pads glazed over (shiny and melted-like cover on their surface)
- are rotors/pads actually stock (check numbers and post pics, I think I took pic of old pad once on here)...will try to find it. Others can chime in about if your hardware is stock.
- are caliper pistons moving without great difficulty? Check seals and play, as they may be malfunctioning, exhibiting obstructed movement - but that typically shows on rotors as grooves, etc, since pads are unable to return to neutral positions without resistance.
Only then will you be able to get a better idea on where to go from here. Assuming your braking system has no leaks and pressure is able to build properly, your issue lies in the rotors/pads and their ability to slow the car down.
Remember, this ain't no miata that has to stop.
Trust me. This is not hard to do, so feel confident to try yourself, or you will have to pay at the shop for others to do.
Hope this helps.
If I had to guess, I would say one of the
My bet is that your rotors and/or pads are not stock. My first guess would be your pads are ceramic, or track oriented pads. Hard to tell without actually seeing them.
I would take off the two front tires and remove the pads to inspect.
Things to ask are:
- are the rotors wearing even (no grooves in there anywhere, surface smooth)
- are the rotors glazed over or discolored
- are the pads glazed over (shiny and melted-like cover on their surface)
- are rotors/pads actually stock (check numbers and post pics, I think I took pic of old pad once on here)...will try to find it. Others can chime in about if your hardware is stock.
- are caliper pistons moving without great difficulty? Check seals and play, as they may be malfunctioning, exhibiting obstructed movement - but that typically shows on rotors as grooves, etc, since pads are unable to return to neutral positions without resistance.
Only then will you be able to get a better idea on where to go from here. Assuming your braking system has no leaks and pressure is able to build properly, your issue lies in the rotors/pads and their ability to slow the car down.
Remember, this ain't no miata that has to stop.
Trust me. This is not hard to do, so feel confident to try yourself, or you will have to pay at the shop for others to do.
Hope this helps.
If I had to guess, I would say one of the
Well as I expected, there is hardy much change after the fluid change
Any advice on what to look at next??
Just to add to this...my problem is the time taken for the brakes to start working. As in it takes a bit of hard prsssure and travel before the brakes actually start to work well. Abs works but the pedal is very hard and takes a lot of pressure to make it go down
Hope this helps a bit
Any advice on what to look at next??
Just to add to this...my problem is the time taken for the brakes to start working. As in it takes a bit of hard prsssure and travel before the brakes actually start to work well. Abs works but the pedal is very hard and takes a lot of pressure to make it go down
Hope this helps a bit