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Engine change on 2012 CTT - what to check for after?

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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by nhirsch
Actually with entry and drive, I can scratch my back with the key while I'm driving where you would have to pull over and remove the key to do the same
That, together with texting and using a cell phone while intoxicated behind the steering wheel is, illegal in California.
 
Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by hroussard
That, together with texting and using a cell phone while intoxicated behind the steering wheel is, illegal in California.
strange no mention of fooling around with your gorgeous co-pilot while doing all the above.
 
Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by nhirsch
strange no mention of fooling around with your gorgeous co-pilot while doing all the above.
Not yet but if you see those ugly Democrat women in the Local government in Californication.. you know it's only a matter of time .. Too much fun for the guys just can NOT be tolerated. . We will need to pay for that!!
 
Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Acc99
Rak, read an old thread a while ago that you have some good tips on how to properly break-in a new engine. What are the do's and dont's?
The key for the first few hundred miles is to to vary rpm through gear changes after operating temp reached. This should be done quite vigorously. Avoid revving past 4500. No wot for at least 800 miles. Manual sys 2000 which is pretty excessive but continue break in procedure and rpm limits for a solid 1000 miles. Worst thing is short trips for breakin, avoid if possible.
 
Old Apr 18, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...eak-logic.html

full article here: http://yel.pca.org/porsche-engine-break-in/
 

Last edited by nhirsch; Apr 18, 2013 at 08:12 PM.
Old Apr 18, 2013 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RAKLAW
The key for the first few hundred miles is to to vary rpm through gear changes after operating temp reached. This should be done quite vigorously. Avoid revving past 4500. No wot for at least 800 miles. Manual sys 2000 which is pretty excessive but continue break in procedure and rpm limits for a solid 1000 miles. Worst thing is short trips for breakin, avoid if possible.
RAK - when you say vigorously - well how vigorously do you vary RPMs breaking in your cars? I was thinking like driving for 2-3 minutes regularly then maybe 2-3 minutes in lower gears (higher RPMs). Then repeating throughout the road trip. Thoughts?
 
Old Apr 19, 2013 | 07:32 AM
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Boy am I gonna catch a lot of flak for this

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

As a disclaimer I'm going to add that I didn't do what the link above described and I did follow the break-in procedures described in the manual. Or at least I tried...mostly... Zero issues with the car so far. Have not added a drop of oil so far (6,000+ miles). My best advise to is to drive like you normally would. Not ***** out 100% of the time but no need to granny it. As per RAK's suggestion: varying RPMs and properly heat cycling the oil is key.

Ford did an interesting thing. They grabbed a EcoBoost engine off the line and they they put it on a dyno and a temperature torture chamber. Ran a few repetition of their torture tests then drop it into one for their trucks and sent it across the country to do various demanding tasks (hauling lumber, 24 trailer towing, etc...) After all that they did a compression test and tore the engine down in front of an audience at a car show. I will not spoil the results for you. You can see their mini-film about it on YouTube.

 
Old Apr 19, 2013 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bones boy
RAK - when you say vigorously - well how vigorously do you vary RPMs breaking in your cars? I was thinking like driving for 2-3 minutes regularly then maybe 2-3 minutes in lower gears (higher RPMs). Then repeating throughout the road trip. Thoughts?
Specifically with the Porsche Tip 8 speed I never went past 5th for the first 800 miles. On the open road the normal downshift (even when not necessary) to 4th then 3rd making sure rpms never exceeded 4500 were sufficient after then applying throttle, afgain not exceeding 4500.
Of the 40 or more hipo cars I have broken in, the only 2 that ever consumed oil were a 1989 Porsche 930, and a 2003-4 Porsche Cayenne turbo. Even My AMG's, to include my present C63 BS were broken in this way and were not oil users. my 2010 C63 P31 Devel Pkg was traded in at 4600 miles and used zero oil.
Of course in the goodol' days we dropped the oil in our 427 vettes every 600-800 miles, so it was really hard to judge consumption
I have never broken in a vehicle with a WOT philosophy, but that's just me.
 
Old Apr 19, 2013 | 09:00 AM
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(QUOTE=LaicepsYdobon Boy am I gonna catch a lot of flak for this )

No flak needed- that was a great video. I didn't know that the engine was such a monster.
 
Old Apr 19, 2013 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RAKLAW
I have never broken in a vehicle with a WOT philosophy, but that's just me.
I'm with you on that one. I even baby the loners I get. Something must be wrong with me
 
Old Apr 19, 2013 | 11:39 PM
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Oki-doki
Might catch flak for this..but here goes
Floored and v-maxed mine on Autobahn in the first few miles,tracked it in Leipzig on day 4 of ownership(to keep up with 911s,do you think i babied it? )
Last time I was at dealership,30 year Porsche tech told me...yup,you broke it in right...14000 miles,no oil added..flawless performance
Not boasting..well maybe a wittle...justa statement of fact..no more,no less
Ps:was on a no speed limit portion of autobahn with a turbo..right outside of factory..on day 2 ,so waited about .8 miles before checking just how much power my pepper had...decent rush..only bummed it 'plateaud' around 155 and was only good for 177
Did 195 in my 997tts
 

Last edited by pepper09tt; Apr 20, 2013 at 12:36 AM.
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 01:21 PM
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Received my car back today. Sounds and drives like new. Time will flush out any issues. Here is the report from the dealer:

Customer states-investigate loud noise from engine. Engine internally faulty oil contaminated with metal diag verified noise drained oil NG found oil contaminated with metal auth to R/R engine drained fluids R/I engine and trans unflanged trans from engine R/R engine and reconditioned with swapped over parts refit trans NG when torquing trans bolts one snapped unflanged trans and drilled out broken bolt retapped engine case refit trans with new bolts ok refit engine/trans to vehicle refit all connections refilled and topped off fluids refilled suspension with nitrogen tank and tester NG fault stored for faulty steering angle sensor create and submit new val R/I steering wheel and column trims DVOM wiring ok realtimed sensor ok will no calibrate R/R steering angle sensor/clockspring recoded and calibrated with tester ok all faults cleared performed 4 wheel alignment roadtest ok checked and topped off fluids performed pdcc bleed and calibration procedure 2 times as per ppn instructions topped off pdcc fluid roadtest ok old engine # C05091 New # D04513.
 

Last edited by nhirsch; Apr 22, 2013 at 01:23 PM.
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 05:18 PM
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Well it certainly sounds impressive . Curious about that steering issue, and can't comment on the trans bolt they over torqued. As long as there are no issues I would put the entire incident behind you and praise modern technology that got you back good as new.
 
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by nhirsch
Received my car back today. Sounds and drives like new. Time will flush out any issues. Here is the report from the dealer:

Customer states-investigate loud noise from engine. Engine internally faulty oil contaminated with metal diag verified noise drained oil NG found oil contaminated with metal auth to R/R engine drained fluids R/I engine and trans unflanged trans from engine R/R engine and reconditioned with swapped over parts refit trans NG when torquing trans bolts one snapped unflanged trans and drilled out broken bolt retapped engine case refit trans with new bolts ok refit engine/trans to vehicle refit all connections refilled and topped off fluids refilled suspension with nitrogen tank and tester NG fault stored for faulty steering angle sensor create and submit new val R/I steering wheel and column trims DVOM wiring ok realtimed sensor ok will no calibrate R/R steering angle sensor/clockspring recoded and calibrated with tester ok all faults cleared performed 4 wheel alignment roadtest ok checked and topped off fluids performed pdcc bleed and calibration procedure 2 times as per ppn instructions topped off pdcc fluid roadtest ok old engine # C05091 New # D04513.
Thanks again for sharing your story - which could have been a real nightmare! How long total were you without your ride?
 
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RAKLAW
On the open road the normal downshift (even when not necessary) to 4th then 3rd making sure rpms never exceeded 4500 were sufficient after then applying throttle, again not exceeding 4500.
Perfect RAK! Rep headed your way! Thanks for the suggestions.
 


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