I'm installing a brake controller on my 2013 Diesel, and need some help with securing the mounting bracket to a dash panel.

There is a panel (knee panel?) below the steering column, the lowest interior colored panel (rectangular in shape), that I'd like to mount to. Idealy, I'd remove the panel, drill a couple holes, mount the bracket with some short machine screws / nuts, then replace the panel. Planning to put it on the right side of this panel, near the center console. I'm a little nervous just to screw directly into the panel (without removing it) as I'm not sure how thick it is, how much bite the screws will have, and therefore how securely mounted the bracket would end up. I'm hesitant to just use velcro or mounting tape, as I'd think the accelerometer in the brake controller would function best if rigidly mounted.

The panel below this one is the black plastic one with a light for the foot well - this just had a single torx screw and was easy to remove / unclip the light, but the next one up is the one that's unclear to me....

So any tips? Anyone know of a schematic or some documentation to help here?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help here...

 

Note: I have not done this myself.

Payment for this information is that you take pics and write up a DIY when you are done.

You might try asking your dealer to print (at least) the following documents for you:

900319 Removing and installing dashboard inset
702219 Removing and installing cover under dashboard
701919 Removing and installing trim panel under dashboard

I only have the last, so what follows is the (paraphrased) information from it. No I will not share. PCNA gets uptight about that and it has my information watermarked on it.

Preliminary work:

1. 900319 Removing and installing dashboard inset - section on "Removing".
2. 702219 Removing and installing cover under dashboard - section on "Removing"

Regarding #1 that is referring to the trim piece that is between the top and bottom portions of the dash. With my basic trim package it is gloss black and pseudo-aluminum. I haven't done the driver side, but if you look at my V1 remote display DIY I talk about the passenger side. Removing the vents (discussed in my DIY) may not be required, but I think makes it easier.

Removing the panel:

1. Remove 7 screws. 1 on either side of the steering column. 1 on each outer top corner. 1 at each bottom corner. 1 on the outer (door) side (from the pic it appears to be between 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down from the top).
2. Unclip it at the top. 1 clip is near the outer top screw and the other appears to be between the two screws on the other side.
3. Remove it from the guide. This is at the inner bottom corner (against the tranmission tunnel). The pic makes it look like it should slide or lift off.
4. Unplug the main light switch.
5. Unplug the e-brake switch.
6. Unplug the diagnostic (ODB-II) port.

Do the reverse to put everything back.

 

Any update on this Looking to do the same thing and rig up a cell phone holder

 

Looks like you've been waiting patiently since 2017 so here is my write up:

Removing the knee panel driver's side 958 Cayenne.


Tools needed:

• Torex Bits T-20, T-25, T27 (T-20, T-21, whatever it takes)
• 1/4” drive ratchet wrench
• shorty ratchet bit driver
• trim tools (blue hard nylon from harbor freight)
• mini screwdrivers
• flashlights, pad for floor and patience

Steps:

Fuse Panel
Open driver's door and remove the fuse panel (you did know that there's a fuse panel at the left end of the dash right?). From the way it goes on and off, it's clear that the Porsche engineers did not imagine fuses needing to be replaced, at least not by our mortal hands. Use blue nylon trim tools to pry the clips loose, consider putting blue painter's tape on your leather dash for protection. Pop it off.


AirVents
The two driver's air vents must be removed. The one all the way to the left is held on by four clips and the center one is held in by five clips inside (which are pried apart with screwdrivers –here is an excellent video on how to remove center vents: )

The left side vents also has 2 T-20 screws bolts holding it in place, so don't forget those. There's also an electrical connection that needs to be removed. (see photo 1, 2)

Photo 1 Driver's side left vent & fuse panel

Photo 2 Driver's side vent


Kaltluftabschottung Panel
As you probably expected, you also need to remove the kaltluftabschottung panel from the bottom of the dash at the driver's side foot well. The kaltluftabschottung panel is held by 1 T-20 screw. Remove screw, pull down firmly to release the rear clips. The front clips are the two large white plastic clips that the kaltluftabschottung panel slides into. So after releasing the rear clips, rotate the panel down about 15 degrees and slide it towards you. Release the electrical connection for the footwell light. Set the kaltluftabschottung panel to the side.

Removing the kaltluftabschottung panel will expose the lower dash panel fasteners. There are two more T-20 screws and three T-27 bolts.

Small Accent Trim Panels
To expose the upper screws, you must remove the small accent trim panels on either side of the steering wheel. (these could be polished wood, aluminum, plastic or carbon fiber. I must have the special superleggera package on my Cayenne as mine are carbon fiber). These are held by two round pressure clips each. Use your trim tool and painter's tape to gently pry them out, pulling toward back of vehicle.

There are two T-20 screws on each side of the steering wheel (exposed after removing trim) and two T-20 screws beneath steering wheel. (see photos 3,4)

Photo 3. Trim panel, right of steering wheel

Photo 4. Trim panel removed near key fob


Dash Knee Panel Removal
A total of nine T-20 screws (six at the top, one at side, two at the bottom) and three T-27 bolts (at bottom) to be removed to remove the dash knee panel on driver's side. (see photo 5,6 ) There are now four electrical connections on the panel. Disconnect the Parking Brake electrical connection and the two T-25 bolts holding it in place. Disconnect the headlight switch.

Photo 5. knee panel unbolted

Photo 6. Knee panel removed

Now it's held by the OBD II port and an electrical connection and copper wire connected to something called the “Knieairbag,” which I strongly suspect is an airbag. (see photo 7) To add an extra level of excitement and danger (but mostly because I do not know how), I did not disconnect the battery prior to starting this operation so I half expected the airbag to fire at anytime. I do not recommend this.

Photo 7. "Kniearbag"


Anyway, the whole point of the exercise for me was to remedy an annoying sliding sound. For the last five hundred of my 93,000 miles, I've had this loose part sliding around with moderate-G turns. It sounds like a coin or washer sliding (not tumbling) across what I suspect is a 6” or so piece of horizontal hard plastic. Disassembling the knee dash unfortunately did not reveal any smoking gun. The only part I was unable to dissect was the airbag compartment, mostly because I wasn't sure how much I could push my luck. I'd hoped to completely remove the knee dash panel and drive around to see if the sound was eliminated but was unable to do so. Nor was I able to get enough slack in the airbag wiring harness to drive safely. With limited range of motion, I was unable to produce any sliding sound from within the panel cavities by shaking or tilting the panel. There is an aluminum square tube with about a ten inch horizontal run (the sound did not sound like it was on metal, rather a rough grained hard plastic) but I stuffed the tube with foam anyway). The plastic air tubes don't seem to have any smooth, flat horizontal runs in them but I checked them for loose articles but decided not to stuff them with foam as I think living without heat and air conditioning would be more annoying than that rattle.

I did find a small snapped zip tie but it didn't seem to have enough mass to create the sound I'd been hearing. So after reaching an impasse, I cleaned everything and reassembled. The test drive revealed no change in the sliding sound, so I guess I'm going to the dealer.

 

Thanks for doing this write up, great job! Been chasing a vibration over rough pavement and will look into these steps to track it down.

 

Thanks for the comment. I also posted this on Rennlist and one of the replies was to check the storage drawer beneath the driver's seat. Sure enough, it was my spare house key sliding around, making that sound. Amazing, it sounded like it was the dash. Try that first!

 

Good tip I have a flashlight and some phone charger cables in that compartment.
I cut a pool noodle down the middle as a sleeve to Isolate the flash light noise in the door pocket of my 997TT

 

Love the color combination and the deviated stitching.Did you order it that way or a CPO?